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question about CEL codes. 1, 12, 18
so i got the codes for my 91 s5 n/a
they came up: 1. Trailing Ignition coil 12. Throttle Sensor (full range) 18. Throttle Sensor (narrow range) as for #1, i checked my wires and plugs, they were both fine. i replaced plugs and wires w/ ngk in DEC 06. so not even a year ago. as for 12 and 18 i have no idea what to check or fix. i did search but couldnt find anything. so any help is appercaited. thanks Nick |
anybody? i need some assistance
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i through codes 12 and 18 also and i was told to adjust the tps.
i was also given sites for adjusting the tps but it was hard to understand but here is one of them. http://www.rotorwiki.com/index.php/TPS_Adjustment |
ah so it is the tps? i was confused cause it only said throttle sensor...
thanks for the link. i guess ill be doing that soon enough |
if it's tripping the codes, you'll probably have to replace the TPS itself. $360 from mazdatrix.
Read the FSM, maybe it'll tell you how to check the coil itself. |
Originally Posted by DRFT211
(Post 7461524)
as for #1, i checked my wires and plugs, they were both fine.
The FSM's Fuel & Emission Control Systems chapter has troubleshooting procedures for every error code. Go to the self-diagnosis section on page F1-22 and follow the instructions. Tell us what you find. |
Code# Input Device malfunction Fail-safe function 01 trailing ignition coil malfunction of spark plug, broken wire, short circuit Trailing side ignitions pulse cut 02 crank angle sensor (ne sensor) broken wire, short circuit fuel injection and ignition cut 03 crank angle sensor (g sensor) broken wire, short circuit fuel injection and ignition cut 05* knock sensor Broken wire, short circuit Ignition timming retarded 08 airflow meter (AFM) broken wire, short circuit basic fuel injection amount and fixed timing 09 water thermosensor broken wire, short circuit coolant temp fixed at 80 degrees C (176F) 10 intake air thermosensor (AFM) broken wire, short circuit intake air temp fixed at 20C (68F) 11 intake air thermosensor (engine) broken wire, short circuit intake air temp fixed at 20C (68F) 12 Throttle sensor (full range) broken wire, short circuit throttle valve opening angle signal fixed at 20% 13 pressure sensor (intake manifold) broken wire, short circuit intake pressure fixed at 760 mmHg (29.9 inhg) 14 atmospheric pressure sensor malfunctioning ECU at. Pressure fixed at 760 mmHg 15 oxygen sensor oxygen sensor output remains below 0.55v 80 sec. after F/B system operation beginning feedback system canceled(for EGI) 17 feedback system oxygen sensor output remains 0.55v 10 sec. after F/B system operation beginning feedback system canceled(for EGI) 18 throttle sensor (narrow range) broken wire, short circuit signal fixed at full open 20 metering oil pump position sensor broken wire, short circuit Mop fixed smallest open. basic fuel amount and timing fixed 27 metering oil pump (MOP) malfunctioning MOP, step motors, broken wire, short circuit, or malfunctioning ECU Mop fixed smallest open,basic fuel amount and timing fixed 37 metering oil pump (MOP) malfunctioning MOP, step motors, broken wire, short circuit, or malfunctioning ECU basic fuel amount and timing fixed i found that some where, thats where i got my info from. and thats why i thought it was just my plugs/ wires but one question about all of this. my car still runs completely the same as when i bought it two years ago. no idle problems, no hesitation nothing. still pulls hard threw every gear. so i guess heres my question, should i fix it, or just let it go? |
You should always fix a check engine light.....
Btw, what happens when you start the car from cold with the AWS and let the car warm up? Any problems? |
Originally Posted by DRFT211
(Post 7469555)
i found that some where, thats where i got my info from.
and thats why i thought it was just my plugs/ wires should i fix it, or just let it go? |
i already looked at the fsm.. it is all very confusing for me. i dont know how to test "continuity" and everything. should/can i buy a used tps from a junk yard? and ill probably end up just buying a new trailing coil also.
is that the best way to go about things, just to replace both? as for cold starts. it will do its 3k rev then just idle fine until warm up. the only problem i have is when i hot start it. if ive been driving a while, stop for gas or soemthing, then start it back up, its wants to stall so i have to give it gas until i get moving. but it doesnt have any problems after i bring it back down to idle. |
used TPS will most likely be blown also. It's rare to find a working one, I've only found one in the 20 or so that I've seen, and that was on a decently maintained car.
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damn thats not waht i wanted to hear. idk about buying a new one for 360 bucks...
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most ppl just get a used one and live with the annoyances of a slightly out of spec tps
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so should i just not mess with it. but still fix the trailing coil? cause its not bothering me at all..
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Originally Posted by DRFT211
(Post 7472867)
i already looked at the fsm.. it is all very confusing for me. i dont know how to test "continuity" and everything. should/can i buy a used tps from a junk yard? and ill probably end up just buying a new trailing coil also.
is that the best way to go about things, just to replace both? Testing continuity means sending an electrical signal down a wire to make sure there are no breaks, i.e. it's electrically continuous. This is done with a multimeter. If you don't have one or don't know how to use one, get someone who does to help you, or pay a mechanic. |
i did check all the connectors and wires around the coil and tps they were a little dirty but none looked to be in bad shape. im going to clean them well this weekend and reset my ecu and go from there.
thanks for the help guys Nick |
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