lkz

Well i am a newb to the wankel scene. I just bought me an 87 na cheap like 500$ and i am going to put a turbo....contrary to other peoples belifes that there r easier alternatives and cheaper..i have been doing my home work and decided to buy me a 13b na and rebuild it..bridge port it....port the intake and whatever else i come across...i have read many write ups on this (thanks aaron cake) but have gotten no info as to how i can make it run more psi...some sort of super composite apex seals?????i might get flamed for this thread but i thought i had to ask....is asking for 20psi acheivable or am i dreaming..




P.S. i am not worried about drive train (yet) this is the first stage motor

arghx

iTrader: (3)

uh you need to buy a turbo motor, not a 13b n/a motor. You are creating a ton of work for yourself.

lkz

i understand this but i like a good project and im not afraid of fabrication and spending some $

Akina303

then that would be just really really stupid.

My5ABaby

iTrader: (7)

Maybe he just wants to do something that nobody, save a few, has done? What's the crime in that.

There are better seals you can buy (ceramic), but the Mazda OEM seals work good.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ I feel I am rightly skeptical of newbies taking on huge projects like that on $500 "bargain-basement" 7's. There is probably a ton of maintainance and worn out crap that can be replaced with all the time and money he may be spending on trying a 6 port turbo.

Economically, resources (time and money) are scarce. He can spend them on an engine project with a huge potential to be a moneypit quagmire, or he can try to get the car as a whole together and do the more straightforward turbo swap.

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Well, lets start with:

Build a turbo motor first, seeing as you're new to the engines, get used to building and tuning the one intended to run boost. A stock OEM engine (TII) can take 20 psi without breaking a sweat.

Secondly, I would recommend for a first build not to bridgeport...you want to establish a good knowledge base before adding the other legs such as porting, ems and big boost. I would rebuild a stock TII engine and mate it to your N/A drivetrain for now. Run it on the stock ECU with perhaps a piggy back (or depending on the series, use an Rtek) and get the hang of its quirks.

But if you've done your homework like you say, just go for it...........your car, your time and your wallet....

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like the only write up you have read is mine...Since this sounds like your first project, I suggest that you start slow instead of jumping right into something. Just based on your questions there will be a STEEP learning curve and it would really suck to end up building something that you spend years on only to find out that it is unworkable when you turn the key.

Start reading up on this forum about what goes into building an engine. The Rotary Performance area contains a lot of info, and if you search for "rebuild pics" or "rebuild pictures" over the entire forum you will find a lot of info.

99% of the time, stock or regular "steel" aftermarket seals are all you need.

PSI is irrelevant. Airflow is the key. For example, the stock turbo might make 275HP at 14 PSI, but a larger turbocharger could make 400 HP at 8 PSI.

The first question is the toughest: How much can you spend?
The 2nd is equally tough because it has to be based on reality: What are your goals?
And the 3rd is evil because it makes you admit: What are you capable of in terms of mechanics and fabrication?

I don't want to sound like I'm tooting my own horn, but my budget for the project is essentially whatever I want to spend, my goals were to make a car that in my mind is better then 90% of what's available and I've been fabricating and building stuff since I could walk.

Taking on a major project requires commitment. Space to work, the tools (or the means to purchase the tools), skill (you don't want your first welding project to be something critical) and the desire to see it through no matter what the armchair jockeys say to you and behind your back.

We get a LOT of threads that go on for days that contain great detail and good information, only to end up dead because the original poster found out how much work/money (usually money) is actually involved.

lkz

first off thanks for all the info it helps...i know i should just buy a turbo II but around here theres not a one to be found!!!! although 13b na they are littered every where for like 100$ a pop..... I am not new to mechanics or fabricating i built my first car when i was 18 its a boinger 86 mustang 351w stroked... 9 inch rear.....i have been doing mechanic work most my life and i find thats what i do best... i am going to go with an aftermarket ecu...i do know that fuel upgrading is a must...light weight rotors.....i just want to make a badass na turbo and that is what it comes down to....dont get me wrong if i do find a 13bt ill be all on it but unlikely.....by the way the car is in good shape..it runs like a champ.. i just took it cross state and was doin 95-100 all the way and had no problems what so ever..it also starts right up in the morning not much smoke on start up...overall i say she is a good car...now if n e 1 can change my mind then maybe i will just build a NA ..regardless its almost winter and i need to start a good project i figure tearing apart a 13b.... rebuilding....street porting...and putting together will help me with my spring jones..