As in the title, I have a stock 88 N/A, and I'm putting a stage 1 rebuild from rx7 world.com in it. What should be done mechanically to make sure I get as much power from this motor as possible without reprogramming my ecu? Any other dos and don't of rotary installs would be helpful as well. Thanks!

 

For starters, what is a stage 1 rebuild from rx7world.com?

Is it ported? New Rotors? New Housings?

 

No ports, not new, fresh rebuild. But it has upgraded corner springs and super seals, I had the rotors polished for cleanliness and economy. You can see what I am talking about if you look at the website, its one click away from the home page.

 

Stage 1 sounds like a lot of bullshit to me. Sorry man.

Go stage 2... whatever that is.

 

I will upgrade eventually, but I just gotta get back on the road again..

 

eventually I will get new housings maybe, send it off to get it milled to 3mm and accept a turbo maybe, get the light ecc shaft, I'm gonna slowly go through every system on my car an upgrade it ground up, new suspension, I'm putting the five lugs and four piston calipers on and tubbing this sumbitch out...LATER...but until then I got 12k miles of free ride under warranty and about 10k of beautiful new broken in motor to play with...you see my predicament?LOL

 

The problem, is that each 'new' major engine part requires you to tear it down. While you have it torn down do everything.

 

Header and 2.5" exhaust system.
Unrestrictive intake with a cold air box.
Remove AC,PS,Mechanical Fan,Air Pump/Emissions equipment
Advance the ignition timing

 

Does RX7wold already have your motor? I really don't like it that they don't tell you what seals they put in, and $150 for 'super seals' what are 'super' seals?

If you are looking at a cheap motor for now fine, you can do everything else and then come back to the motor when you are ready to really build it up.

Suspension first
springs/shocks or coilovers
swaybars
maybe an LSD?
front/rear strut bar?

Powermods for now can be,
Full header back exhaust
intake?
If you are ambitious go for a S5 UIM swap

You can also do a 5 lug swap, and at the same time you can do the DTSS install.

 

The s5 uim swap is kind of tedious but good for 8-12hp, depending on who you ask.

Also do the throttle body mod.

 

Most likely its RA super seals. I would check out this tread 1st about the seals they are putting in your engine.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...orld+solutions

 

Yeah thats what I was afraid of. RA seals are not that good from what I have heard.

 

Sorry to threadjack, but what is the TB mod, everyone says to do it but no-one says what it is.

 

remove the seondary throttle plates and remove the cold start assist system.

 

i say **** the super seals and polishing(polishing would actually cause more carbon buildup i thought?), and throw in an extra 95$ to get a streetport.

Or you could just get rotary resurrection to rebuild the engine for $1000 instead of $1400 and have him do porting and put new bearings in etc.

 

1. SAFC or any fuel controller
2. wideband (or skip this if you go to a dynotuner)
3. Racing Beat true Duals (road race system)
4. Pineapple Racing intake sleeves
5. remove AC (unless you live in a place that's hot as hell)

I've only heard of the TB porting on the turbo and some people claim it's not effective on the NA but I don't really know.
http://fc3spro.com/TECH/HOWTO/TBM/tbm.html


I am not too familiar with timing advance yet so I can't recommend that. You'll be close to the limit on HP with the stock ports though. I've seen anywhere between 150-180whp with this set up but it all depends on the tuner.

 

I have heard mixed reviews. Either way, I have 10k miles to see if these things blow. BTW, the price was 1100 when I paid for it. I thought about doing the street port but for some reason I didn't, I don't recall why I decided against it. I was gonna get the 3mm upgrade but it was too expensive, and since my last engine failure was an apex seal failure I thought I might wanna beef them up somehow. I know that piston engines have a polish for carbon resistance, not only does it act as a runner for airflow but it also repels carbon buildup because the polished surface is not pitted and in theory can't hold the carbon as well as non-polished. My plan was to make the motor not much more powerful than a stock motor can be, but just to get it running as best I can so I can have some fun before my next swap. I intend on doing some lonely highway driving and some 9 hour roadtrips, not to mention the drivers here are ****, they're ********, sometimes I need to get into traffic where the pathfinder I am driving now wont make it without getting t-boned, you know?

 

This throttle body mod, I like the removal of the coolant through the throttle body, but I don't like that it will make it bog at 3000rpm or less when I jump on the gas..Is there any way I can remove the coolant from going through it and that's it? I don't really want to mess with my throttle body that much. The same with the emissions crap, I would rather not get into it if it works fine unless the reward is really worth it..
Who knows, I may have to pass an emissions test one of these days..
Anything that can be removed and not missed?

 

What is the s5 UIM swap? Can you elaborate?

 

S5 UIM has a different dynamic chamber and a VDI port. The VDI opens at 5000 rpm and forces more air into opposite rotors.

The swap is not an easy one, as the S4 and S5 have different mounting positions as well as different emissions positions. (You cannot have emissions with swap) From what I have read its about a 30 hour job and it adds 12-15 dyno proven HP.

 

oooo...sheesh I dunno. I need my car more often than I could ever get that swap finished on my own! And I could never afford to pay the labor for something like that on MY budget!lol

 

BTW, if you read up on that thread about RA suer seals there are mixed debates and no real conclusions are drawn. They may be suspicious, but there are many cases reported that they have run them for a while successfully and that the rotor housings were crap to begin with. One had 10k miles and was still gaining compression. And the thread is pretty old and these failures don't seem to have impacted RA super seals availability or use. I would think that a truly inferior product would have better been condemned by the community and yet you find people support these seals for one reason or another. To hell with it, I'll be the guinea pig. With the luck I've had on this car it will either turn around and be great or we will gain some definitive evidence against these seals. I will check compression before my warranty turns over, by then maybe I will have saved enough for a TII upgrade or S5 N/A to turbo or maybe supercharged, turbo tranny and LSD and go full new housings,some sort of porting, light or otherwise, lightweight interiors and high compression rotors, run it at 10-15 psi maybe, go with the hardened stationary gears, race bearings, new oil pump (maybe look into one of the electric kind??) you know, the WORKS. I don't have much else I want to spend money on..hehe..

 

You will find that most people don't recommend RA seals at all, and if you are on a tight budget why be a guinea pig?

 

The deed is done...not that I volunteered to be but I have already paid and its been built and GET THIS-dropped in shipping and sent back to be REBUILT and it will be here tomorrow if the shipping company doesn't dick me around anymore..so make lemonade..its the crappiest engine I could find with a good warranty..its a temporary engine anyways. This is kind of an experiment anyway.

 

Ernst has told me that he has used them in over 300 engines and not had one come back for apex seal problems..