s5 motor, in an 90 TII aggressivly street ported, 60-1 with custom ex. manifold, greddy boost controller, haltec e6k(not tuned yet), and port-matched stock intake mani.

when it is just turned on and not warm, we are seeing 60psi on the stock oil pressure guage, but as it warms, it slowly drops to just above 0 (probly bout 10). when we are driving it, we see about 20-25psi.

on a motor thats streetported (REALLY BIG) what kinda oil pressures should we be seeing when breaking it in?

currently we have about 50 miles on the new motor.
thanks for any help!

Glitch

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/faq/oring.htm

And FYI, you might want to shrink your sig before a mod sees it..

 

oh and we put in 10w30 for break-in

 

haha yea i just did

 

any other ideas? i think our engine builder put that o-ring in there right.

 

Wow, this is the same old question that comes up all the time......in cognito.

Get an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. Period. Until then do not stress over the oil oring.

Tell your bud to get some gauges. Be a really good idea. Since the haltech does not moniter oil pressure. Unless you make it.

James

 

Yeah I have gauges, just not oil pressure. It weird though b/c reads but kinda goes up a down, just wanted to make sure I wasn'tmessing anything up driving it to and from work.

 

You still don't know if you are messing something up because you do not have an oil pressure gauge. (Stock does not count) However, the odds are low unless you put you car back together in a sand pit

 

This is not the problem,

the guy who built the motor said he blocked that off or something of that nature.So the only thing it could be is the stock pressure unit is crapping out or my oil pump isn't pumping(and he said he tested that before putting the motor back together)

anybody know of anybody that is selling a oil pressure gauge for pretty cheap???

 

You can make one real cheap

Go to Home depot and find a pressure gauge that will go to at least 80 psi. Get a barbed connector and screw it into your pressure gauge (with teflon on the threads).

Then get some hose maybe about three feet that can handle the pressure.

Now this is the tricky part. You need to find a metric sized barbed connector that will thread into the block where the stock gauge went.

Don't forget some hose clamps on the barbed connectors.

This should cost you around 10 bucks. Assuming you can find the metric thread barbed connector to fit the block.

This will be good enough to test.

Also, the pressure gauge can double as testing fuel pressure

James

 

Cool,
thanks
I think i'm just gonna go buy a gauge from rp or something since I'm 15 miles from them.

 

he said it was agresively street ported.
well in my motor (dont know what porting if any was done) every time it burps, kinda like cam overlap, the oil preasure drops 10PSI or so. I have been trying to determine "what in a rotary with overlap can cause PSI to drop" has to be something wrong with that picture, or it may be normal.

just trying to say that my motor acts like a street ported motor, and the PSI does drop.

whew that was hart to try to explain

 

That makes no sense though. The porting does nothing to an oil passege. The EShaft is connected t othe oil pump chain like every rotary built.

Sounds like you have an aftermarket gague. This guy does not. Hence, he does not know what his pressure. Execpt that he has pressure.

James