Rpeck

Okay, had a problem with mine, whenever it was hooked up my 7 would smoke, un-hook the oil breather it was fine but sprays the engine compartment with oil at high RPM's. so i puleld it off, broke it, ... installed a new one, and it's the same damn problem.


anyone else have this problem? or is it cause I am running 85PSI of oil pressure with a high flow pump?

what is the best solution to this? who is running a catch can setup? how do you like it? got pics?


I gotta fix this, it's about my last real problem with this car.

anyone who has had sucsess deleting the purge valve please chime in with how you did it.



Thanks much.

-Robert

Rpeck

Sympathy pic, look at all this fuking oil everywhere! I swear it flows out like a fountain at high RPM's

NZConvertible

Did you replace the purge valve with a new one or a s/h one? If it wasn't new, test it to see it works as it's supposed to (see FSM). If it's OK, the purge valve is causing this problem, it's just highlighting it.

Sounds like excessive blow-by to me. Talk to an engine builder about that possibility.

Rpeck

It was a Pick N Pull purge valve, but it tested just fine. I think the problem is exagerated on my car do to my Oil pressure, and oil pump. I just want to eliminate this POS all together.

I just talked to my builder (myself) and he also agreed "dump the Piece of **** purge valve" Compression is fine, motor is fine, i just think it's just my added oil pressure.


-Robert

NZConvertible

Oops, it meant the purge valve isn't causing this problem, it's just highlighting it.

It still shouldn't be happening. Plenty of cars run with higher than stock oil pressure without excessive smoking. The purge valve has nothing to do with this.

Rpeck

It has to have 'something' to do with it. As soon as I unplug the line from the 'crankcase' breather part and let it just free flow it is just fine. It does not smoke real heavy when hooked up .. but heavy enough that I worry about my wide band getting fugged up.

What if I just put a catch can on that line, and have a breather on the top of the can? do I then need to cap the bottom of the purge valve to avoid a vacuum leak? or would that hole be irrelivant?

cause that is what I am leaning towards .. I an just sick of the oil mess on the inside of the compartment.

-Robert

Rpeck

Take a peek, admire my fine artwork .. and lemme know what you think plz people.

slow87turbo

now that is a work of art. if that line ran into the "crank case" then it should be fine open aired. think about it the engine pulls air in from diffrent places. either that or to please your self cap it.

ej

Amur_

Catch can: http://reganrotaryracing.tripod.com/catch.htm

Rpeck

I am just wondering if it will cause a vacuum leak from those other 2 lines if I leave that bottom open.

I did have the whole purge valve off at one point, and I capped both of those small lines with regular rubber vacuum caps ... at 12 PSI it blew both of them off.



Should I put 2 bungs on my catch can, and route the 'out' back to the stock (open in my picture) location? If it needs to have no vacuum leaks it will have one from the vents in the catch can though.

Rpeck

That guy went ape ****. Nice idea, but way overkill for what I am looking for. I also don't quite understand why he vented back to his filler cap?? there is a hose right there on our cars, guess not on his?

Rpeck

No more insight on my artwork?

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Thats a hell of a lot better than I can do.

Rpeck

Thats not what I meant, I meant on the idea and what to do with the stock purge hole.

SpeedFreak03

lol same here I cant draw worth a ****

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

Oh, lol. Looks like a good idea to me, although I'm no expert.

BlackRx7

since you've gone turbo need to hook up the crank case ventilation to a source that always sees vaccum and increase with boost, with out this your oil seal get sucked out of place from the pessure difference for a millisecond and will cause you to smoke between shifts...... or even all the time

www.1300cc.com has a really good catch can idea with vacum digarams

Scott 89t2

if you unplug the big line there is no reason to have the other 2. they are there to make the big line to the oil tupe work

and you'll have a vac leak.

NZConvertible

I still think you have issues elsewhere, and adding a catch can is just going to mask the problem, but here's what I thought about doing. Make a catch can like Scott did using a short length of PVC pipes with two end caps. Fill it with steel wool before sealing it up. The steel wool is what separates the oil from the air. Screw brass hose barbs into the side for your connections. If you have the cash you can always just buy one. Plumb it up like this:

Rpeck

Hmm, i like that. i **** rigged a rolaids bottle just now and went for a 10 minute 12 PSi run, and i'll be damned if it's not already 1/16th full from 10 minutes and a couple full throttle pulls. I'm not sure what the hell is up with that. Seems like way to much oil to me, but it served it's purpose, showed me how much was comming out. Time for a more permanent solution.

I guess my next question is; where is the oil comming from? Is it leaking past somthing to accumulate that much?

You had to do it NZ You just turned this into a weekend project, my GF will be pissed at me again. Just looks like to much fabrication/shoping for a work night.

Rpeck

well, i guess not 1/16th .. here is what i got. I don't like that white **** .. it may be a good idsea to do this just to keep that **** out of my motor.

Rpeck

Anyone see a downside to this catch can? I should be able to hook this up per NZ's diogram right? Looks good to me, I just want to confirm before I order it.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2455616822

just seems easier and better looking than making my own, hell for $50 it's worth the time savings.


I can even get it with a rice colored cap!! LOL

NZConvertible

There will be no difference in performance between that one and a DIY one. Both will do exactly the same thing.

You either pay a lot of money for the bling factor, or small change (PVC and brass fittings plus a can of black paint) and 10 minutes assembly time for a more discrete option.

HAILERS

Is there the smallest of chances that you have a non-turbo dipstick in your turbo engine......which would mean that it is overfilled with oil since the non-turbo stick is shorter???? That's a LOT of blowby in the picuture.

Rpeck

Hey! I am willing to play that game. Can somone one please measure the length of an S4 TII dipstick, top-bottom for me?

I would appreciate it, just to be sure.


But after I did this rebuild I added less than 5 quarts of oil originally .. But you never know what the previous owner may have stole from pick N pocket