2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Purge Valve is driving me ape $hit! options?

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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 10:46 AM
  #26  
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Originally posted by NZConvertible
There will be no difference in performance between that one and a DIY one. Both will do exactly the same thing.

I am just wondering if the vacuum valve on the purchased one is already a one way check valve... I really don't want to inject that white vapor/condensation crap into my TID. If it's a check valve already I can just run a hose below the motor and let it drip. Unless I can get a worthy check valve at a hardware store???
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 07:12 PM
  #27  
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You'll notice on my drawing the air travels upward through the catch can, making if far less likely that any oil makes it to the outlet.
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 09:24 PM
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That white stuff could be churned oil, was the oil foamy at all?
Ok, I checked the dipstick length on my 87 TII, and it's 11-9/16" only the metal part.

The odd thing is, when I took it out, I had a TINY ring around the top of the dipstick of "white crap".
Could it just be what oil and fuel looks like when heated??
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Old Jan 21, 2004 | 10:04 PM
  #29  
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From: Stockton, CA
Originally posted by NZConvertible
You'll notice on my drawing the air travels upward through the catch can, making if far less likely that any oil makes it to the outlet.
Oh, so is the check valve just to keep things 'clean'? I thought it was for a one way needs pressure kind of reason?? so pressure or vacuum, niether are a must?


Thanks again,

I am back to the idea of making it rather than buying it .. I wanan drive this weekedn, and if I buy one it won't be here that early. So it looks like I will be starting this tommorow.
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 02:06 AM
  #30  
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The check valve is only required as part of the stock PCV system. It stops air bypassing the throttle. On my drawing I just left it there since you don't need to touch that side of the stock system. You just connect the catch can to the stock hard line to the TID.

It could be removed with no ill effects since the can's not connected to the intake manifold anymore.
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 10:19 AM
  #31  
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I'm liking that Jazz can with the breather on the top. Just run the oil fill neck nipple and the nipple on the housing to the catch can and let it all vent to atmosphere.
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 03:44 PM
  #32  
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NZ I'm not so sure about your design. When the oil level in the can increases wont the "blowby" have to bubble through the oil?
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 03:48 PM
  #33  
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Originally posted by Slacker7
NZ I'm not so sure about your design. When the oil level in the can increases wont the "blowby" have to bubble through the oil?
hmm, good point. what if you put the input higher than the output?


so the blowbuy comes in high in the can, and the put back is lower. Or is there a putback? where does that other line lead?

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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 04:12 PM
  #34  
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Hey, I just had a mental spike, and it caused a revalation.

I bent about a 3IN round 1IN deep dent in my oil pan when I was putting in my new motor mounts in a few months ago (don't ask ) but, could that be causing my exsesive seaping out of that breather we are discussing?
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 04:16 PM
  #35  
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Originally posted by Slacker7
NZ I'm not so sure about your design. When the oil level in the can increases wont the "blowby" have to bubble through the oil?
Since this is a DIY job, you can make the can as deep as you want and put the connections where you feel is best. I'd probably put the inlets about a third of the way up and the outlet at the very top.

The further apart the inlets and outlet are, the more separating of the air and oil will be done by the steel wool. Making the air go upwards while the oil gravity drains downwards lessens the chance of any suspended oil making it to the outlet.

So the higher the inlets the less effective it'll be at separating the air and oil but the greater the oil capacity will be, or vice versa. Don't forget you'll need some way to drain the can too. I should've drawn that on.
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 04:41 PM
  #36  
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Cool... just making sure.. that picture you posted wasn't too clear.. :
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 09:52 PM
  #37  
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From: Stockton, CA
Well, I did it!

Thanks for all the input and help everyone, even you NZ

this damn server is acting up too much to upload pic's so i will give you all a link.


I put a one way check valve on the top to relieve the pressure, and I put a petock on the bottom to drain it. It's not very pretty, I plan to paint it balck, but so far it works perfect! If I hold my finger over the check valve you can feel it build pressure. The I let go and it pooooof's


-Robert

Pics of my Purge Valve Fix, PCV system

I recomend clicking on "slideshow" kinda shows how it all went together, start-finish

Click here for the slideshow version

Last edited by Rpeck; Jan 22, 2004 at 09:55 PM.
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 10:49 PM
  #38  
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Where's the steel wool? The oil won't be seperated from the air without it...
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 11:09 PM
  #39  
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From: Stockton, CA
Originally posted by NZConvertible
Where's the steel wool? The oil won't be seperated from the air without it...
It's in there, ... i just didnt take a picture of that part. I only filled at about 1/3 of the way with the wool though .. Hope thats enough.
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 11:23 PM
  #40  
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You're supposed to fill it up.
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Old Jan 22, 2004 | 11:33 PM
  #41  
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From: Stockton, CA
Originally posted by NZConvertible
You're supposed to fill it up.
well damnit it's working .. and I forgot to get the steel wool at the store, so I used what was on hand. I also didnt want the upper wool to rust from the condensation vapors. I kinda wanted the wool to stay under oil.

Damn, Kiwi's never happy

Last edited by Rpeck; Jan 22, 2004 at 11:35 PM.
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