I have a question, when the key is turned on the pulsation dampner makes a small noise, we checked this from my car and it makes no noise.

We are trying to start this car, and it s is flooding itself out. Would the pulsation dampner do this?

The car ran, before we put a cone filter on it.

 

The pulsation damper's purpose is to act as a hydraulic shock absorber. It soaks up the pressure increases that occur when the fuel flow is suddenly stopped by an injector closing. This is the same principle as water hammer in household plumbing.

The P.D. will have no effect on the flooding you mention. It really doesn't come into play before the engine starts.

The 2nd. gen P.D. is notorious for failure, leakage and starting catastrophic engine fires though. Make sure the screw (located under the plastic cover) isn't completely backed out. If it is do not screw it back in. REPLACE the P.D. Search the archives for more info re P.D. problems.

 

This happened AFTER you replaced the air filter?

If so, did you reconnect the AFM harness? If not, chk it. It might not be conncted.

 

The screw was in the PD, and the A meter is plugged in.

I am thinking either the flapper on the meter is either stuck or open, or the injectors are leaking.

Any other ideas?

 

It should make a small click on the series 4 PD when the fuel rail pressurises. There normally is not a noise on the series 5 PD.

Quote:

We are trying to start this car, and it s is flooding itself out. Would the pulsation dampner do this?

No

 

okay, so I assume we are looking at leaking injectors.

what is the fix for this? New ones?

Can we test the fuel pressure and see if they are really leaking? Where do I hook my fuel guage, I don't see anywhere to do it.

 

If your going to all that trouble just pull the injectors and send them to be cleaned and blueprinted.

 

Put the fuel pressure gauge in between the fuel filter and where the hose from the fuel filter connects to the piping on the engine.

If you visually wanted to see them leak/not leak, you can unbolt the secondary fuel rail and tie wrap the injectors to the secondary fuel rail. Then turn the key on and jumper the fuel check connector to pressurize the rail. Do the primaries much the same or swap the injectors from each rail. I assume its a n/a.

 

Can you help me out and tell me where the fuel check , that has to be jumper is??

The car is a 87 N/A automatic.

The odd part about this is, we had the car running twice, it wouldn't idle, I found a very large vaccum hose that was off, put it back on and now it won't start.

Is there a faster way to just get it to run, like using oil, instead of ATF to create the seal around the apex seals?

I just can't understand why it started to leak, right when we put a cone filter on.

 

mine did something similar.. it started, idled for a second and died. I had the AFM plug on the AFM, but not clicked down the whole way. You said you're sure it's connected, but that's all I can think to offer. Sounds more like a vaccum leak than injectors

edit:
BTW, if it's flooded, take out the Fuel Injector Fuse under the hood, crank the car for a couple seconds (not too long). Then I normally hold the gas pedal down for a while to open the int. manifold and let some air in, then crank. It should start if it was just flooded

 

Thanks, yes I have been pulling the fuse and holding down the pedal for around 10 to 20 seconds.

I am positive the AFM is connected.

I have to pull the plugs every 2 tries and they are soaked with gas, I then pull a little ATF to help the compression, but it doesn't seem to help.

I have even cranked the engine with the fuse out and the plugs to rid the engine of excess gas, and quite abit comes out, misty ya know.

I can feel 3 very strong pulses from each rotor, so I know its not, blown.

What could I use to help the engine hold compression better? Oil, or something?

I really don't want to pull the intake off, cause the car was running for 2 years before the other night.

 

Are you certain your getting spark? You can also try some starting fluid in the intake to get it started.

 

Make sure the screw (located under the plastic cover) isn't completely backed out. If it is do not screw it back in REPLACE the P.D. Search the archives for more info re P.D. problems. [/B][/QUOTE]

Why Is It Important to replace It. hen mine backed out, my mechanic ,(who not only specializes In customizing and repairing these cars he races them aswell), put a dab of silicone at the end of the screw. I would think that would be enough. Why replace It?