Louim89

Yeah its PD thread. Before i start I do not want to hear anything about banjo bolts, duct tape or a zip lock bag vs the stock. I'm pretty much dead set on what I want (so don't waste your time)

with that out of the way I just want a few things answered.

Driving my car coming back from work TODAY (88 vert) and just smelled a strong strong gasoline smell in the cabin, luckily i Live 6-8 miles from work so i was able to park it. I'm unable to check for any gasoline leaks cause i get out of work at 3 am and its cold as hell. so I won't be using my rx7 cause I'm worried if its the DP I would like to avoid a fire, but i would like to know is there anything else it could be that would cause a gasoline smell?

second I'm wondering if there is a write up or something on how to replace the PD as i'm not as mechanically inclined as i would like to be but i have enough experience and confidence to do this myself

other then that I believe my engine is fine I plan to do a compression test soon do to some recent flooding but i believe it just might be leaky injectors

if someone could answer this for me or post me a link i would greatly appreciate it. I tried to search for it but all i came across was discussion and arguments on "banjo bolt vs w/e" or "cheap alternatives"

Marck

iTrader: (2)

i doubt its the PD check all your lines and do a pressure check on the fuel system. I recently did a swap and its not that hard to get to your PD if you believe its the problem. get your self a repair manual! or go look for a FSM on the forum

Derekcat

iTrader: (8)

If it is your PD [you can check with a flashlight, getting a good angle under the UIM.. Look for a pool of liquid]
Then it's "fairly simple" to get to.. Remove the plastic elbow and tube from the intake, take the pieces off of the Throttle body, Dynamic Chamber, and UIM [these 3 come off as a unit! ^_- Take your time and look carefully], notes for this, take the throttle cable holder off instead of out of the holder and the same for the fuel line running to the secondary fuel rail on the front side. Oh, also make sure you don't loose any of the fuel line washers.. It wont seal up properly without them in place.

Should take you about two hours to get down there and back [if it's your first time] after practice.. an hour and a half or less [I've done taken this group off about 4 or 5 times since I've had my cars.. I went banjo bolt after taking all this off twice during engine pulls.. No ill effects..]

LunchboxCritter

iTrader: (9)

You have an 88 odds are very good that it is your pulsation damper, we lost an 87 TII to a fire due to similar circumstances and that was 15 yrs ago (if they were faulty then they are surely faulty now) and you should replace the entire rail (you might consider S5 rails as they seem to be more reliable).

The FSM (factory service manual) will answer many of your answers as to how to do the work yourself, but if you're not mechanically inclined I would highly recommend finding someone nearby that is experienced with rotary engines (try to avoid your local Mazda dealership).

http://www.rotaryheads.com/PDF/2nd_gen/

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Luckily, you have an S4 which is threaded in... (S5s are pressed in and crimped... One piece with the fuel rail.)

I believe they are available new. I'd give a call over to Malloy...

I too am on the fence about the Banjo Bolt.. But my stock PD appears to be functioning well, so I'll leave it alone.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

just turn the key on and jumper the yellow 2 pin connector at the RF strut tower on the engine harness. now use a flashlight and look just under the UIM at the primary rail and the pulsation dampener should be right in your face, if it is leaking it will be dripping into a puddle just below it.

inspect all the fuel lines that you can see for leaks, cracks and splits as well as the secondary injectors for leaks, the primary injectors can't be seen unless you pull off the UIM.