2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Pulsation Dampener replacement with Mitsubishi bolt

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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 12:59 AM
  #26  
TitaniumTT's Avatar
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From: Connecticut
Originally Posted by Mutaku - Rotary Powa!
in the end its up to whether or not you want to believe in the R&D of the manufacturers or someone on a forum.
Yeah, there's a tough choice

Here's an excerpt from an e-mail from Tim Marren, as in Marren Fuel Injection. I'm sure we've all heard of him. Lucky for me he's local and I've been using him for ~12 years now.

Originally Posted by Marren
It will be beneficial to have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator for this combination (our p/n 0612 would be a good choice) as well as a heavy duty fuel pump (such as our p/n 0103 or 0104). This engine requires more fuel per HP than a piston engine, so you must plan accordingly. A fuel damper for each fuel rail is HIGHLY recommended.

Let me know if you are going to send the intake so I can quote you a price on making a fuel rail.
A Racing professional who has been in the business for how many years is suggesting one for each rail and people on a forum are saying run without it.......
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 01:46 AM
  #27  
need RX7's Avatar
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How does one check for a failed PD, just watch for fuel dripping out? Is there any way to check on it's condition before it fails?
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 01:57 PM
  #28  
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I don't really know... wait until it pees?
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 02:20 PM
  #29  
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From: Rohnert Park CA
Originally Posted by need RX7
How does one check for a failed PD, just watch for fuel dripping out? Is there any way to check on it's condition before it fails?
a good rule of thumb is to replace it every 10 years or 100K miles.

But failure is generally indicated by fuel leaking. With the S5 and S6 fuel rail it is possible to have a membrane failure and have it not leak until the rubber stopper at the end rots out enough to leak, but the PD has failed regardless at that point. So again the good rule of thumb is replace it if the existing one is over ten years old, or 100K miles old (might even change it a little earlier than that if you have a S4 US spec turbo, since it is located a very very hot spot on the motor).
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