pulsation dampener elimination kit for sale now!!!!!!!!!!!
08-11-02, 10:09 AM
#26
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Originally posted by scathcart
What in the hell are you talking about?
What in the hell are you talking about?
Doing the an fitting braided crap is frustrating, no one ever seems to carry the ones you need, as they are to expensive for most stores to keep on the shelf, the biggest speed shop in the city I live in of a million people has perhaps 50 earls fittings at one time on the shelf and out of those 50, 48 are all the same, and with each fitting running about 25 bucks here its alot of cash for nothing special, you end up with either still rubber or nylon line covered with stainless mesh, that when it moves, it rubs a line in everything else it touches like a round file..
For a complete fuel line change over if you want to run an external regulator like a malpassi or whatever..
Take about 4" of 3/8 steel fuel line, if you want to go mondo trick, spend the extra 10 cents per foot and get stainless, take off your fuel rails, strip them down, and re tap them to 3/8 and 1/4 npt, then in the brass fitting section of any hardware store buy some pipe thread by inverted flare by mpt bushings, and some inverted flare tee's, with a cheapo bender and flaring kit, in a hour you can have parralleled better flowing fuel lines out of hard line if you chose to just do the PD line it would really just about cost 8 bucks or less..To get rid of all the rubber off the manifold area it would cost about 20 bucks in fittings, the steel line comes with the flares already on it, if you lack a flaring tool and if you need to trim it up, I am not sure about everywhere else, but here the parts stores will reflare tubing if you bought it there.
The main reason I did it that way was to get rid of all the rubber that likes to split from heat rot around around the intake, I don't care for the stainless wrapped nylon and rubber line, as I said it before, its pretty destructive stuff when vibration gets involved, I have seen that stuff rub through a cast iron compressor head in a week of operation.. I also wanted parrallel fuel rail operation, with an adjustable regulator, which involved alot more plumbing, when I priced it all out it came to about 300.00 in fittings, which no one here had in stock, or cared to get for that matter..
So one trip to autovalue where I dropped 20 bucks and an hour with my taps and tube bender and I was done, can it get any simpler? Max
08-15-02, 03:04 AM
#31
Rotary Freak
Garfinkle changed his fuel line to bigger from the fuel pump in the tank to the rails with steel tubing .cost about $25 .Better pump. elect pressure gage ,1200cc sec injectors .The tubes in the rats nest are bigger also.
08-15-02, 09:46 AM
#32
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btw what sort of guarantee is there on this, being that the fuel system is something that you want to be about perfectly safe.
No offense, but what qualifications do you have to make SURE that it's going to be safe, if this is a homemade kit? It's a lot of legal responsibility to take on. But I'd be interested
No offense, but what qualifications do you have to make SURE that it's going to be safe, if this is a homemade kit? It's a lot of legal responsibility to take on. But I'd be interested
08-15-02, 03:51 PM
#33
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what could go wrong? the only thing i can think of is leaks. if it leaks (which i doubt it will) you'll get a full refund or i'll fix it or make you another one. if you ever put together those SS lines/fittings b4, you'll know it's like legos. also those lines are rated at like 225 psi i think. i've asked on the forum and found out that there are no ill effects from removing your PD. but (i have to say it) i will not take any responsibility for any damage to any part of your car/house/property/pets etc. due to tha fact that you might have put it on wrong wich is really hard to do, or your car was on the virge of breaking anyway. i will only warrenty my product. as for qualifications, ive been wrenchin on cars for 4 1/2years now and is ASE certified in certain feilds. i've worked at a perfornace shop for 2 years and now am try ing to open my own business (not car related) and like i said befor, those fittings are like legos. beyond easy to put together. maybe you can go online to earls/aeroquip web site and look at there install instructions. then you'll see that it's pretty hard to put these together wrong. still intresded? hehe
12-01-02, 03:06 AM
#35
I wish I was driving!
Originally posted by Maxthe7man
Think Scathcart, its to bad they don't sell creativity on ebay...
Doing the an fitting braided crap is frustrating, no one ever seems to carry the ones you need, as they are to expensive for most stores to keep on the shelf, the biggest speed shop in the city I live in of a million people has perhaps 50 earls fittings at one time on the shelf and out of those 50, 48 are all the same, and with each fitting running about 25 bucks here its alot of cash for nothing special, you end up with either still rubber or nylon line covered with stainless mesh, that when it moves, it rubs a line in everything else it touches like a round file..
For a complete fuel line change over if you want to run an external regulator like a malpassi or whatever..
Take about 4" of 3/8 steel fuel line, if you want to go mondo trick, spend the extra 10 cents per foot and get stainless, take off your fuel rails, strip them down, and re tap them to 3/8 and 1/4 npt, then in the brass fitting section of any hardware store buy some pipe thread by inverted flare by mpt bushings, and some inverted flare tee's, with a cheapo bender and flaring kit, in a hour you can have parralleled better flowing fuel lines out of hard line if you chose to just do the PD line it would really just about cost 8 bucks or less..To get rid of all the rubber off the manifold area it would cost about 20 bucks in fittings, the steel line comes with the flares already on it, if you lack a flaring tool and if you need to trim it up, I am not sure about everywhere else, but here the parts stores will reflare tubing if you bought it there.
The main reason I did it that way was to get rid of all the rubber that likes to split from heat rot around around the intake, I don't care for the stainless wrapped nylon and rubber line, as I said it before, its pretty destructive stuff when vibration gets involved, I have seen that stuff rub through a cast iron compressor head in a week of operation.. I also wanted parrallel fuel rail operation, with an adjustable regulator, which involved alot more plumbing, when I priced it all out it came to about 300.00 in fittings, which no one here had in stock, or cared to get for that matter..
So one trip to autovalue where I dropped 20 bucks and an hour with my taps and tube bender and I was done, can it get any simpler? Max
Think Scathcart, its to bad they don't sell creativity on ebay...
Doing the an fitting braided crap is frustrating, no one ever seems to carry the ones you need, as they are to expensive for most stores to keep on the shelf, the biggest speed shop in the city I live in of a million people has perhaps 50 earls fittings at one time on the shelf and out of those 50, 48 are all the same, and with each fitting running about 25 bucks here its alot of cash for nothing special, you end up with either still rubber or nylon line covered with stainless mesh, that when it moves, it rubs a line in everything else it touches like a round file..
For a complete fuel line change over if you want to run an external regulator like a malpassi or whatever..
Take about 4" of 3/8 steel fuel line, if you want to go mondo trick, spend the extra 10 cents per foot and get stainless, take off your fuel rails, strip them down, and re tap them to 3/8 and 1/4 npt, then in the brass fitting section of any hardware store buy some pipe thread by inverted flare by mpt bushings, and some inverted flare tee's, with a cheapo bender and flaring kit, in a hour you can have parralleled better flowing fuel lines out of hard line if you chose to just do the PD line it would really just about cost 8 bucks or less..To get rid of all the rubber off the manifold area it would cost about 20 bucks in fittings, the steel line comes with the flares already on it, if you lack a flaring tool and if you need to trim it up, I am not sure about everywhere else, but here the parts stores will reflare tubing if you bought it there.
The main reason I did it that way was to get rid of all the rubber that likes to split from heat rot around around the intake, I don't care for the stainless wrapped nylon and rubber line, as I said it before, its pretty destructive stuff when vibration gets involved, I have seen that stuff rub through a cast iron compressor head in a week of operation.. I also wanted parrallel fuel rail operation, with an adjustable regulator, which involved alot more plumbing, when I priced it all out it came to about 300.00 in fittings, which no one here had in stock, or cared to get for that matter..
So one trip to autovalue where I dropped 20 bucks and an hour with my taps and tube bender and I was done, can it get any simpler? Max
"AN fittings are for those who can't flare properly"... HA! I'll trust the mechanical abilities of 4 second drag-car team over your home-tubing abilities... funny how they run AN lines and not "flared tubing".
I chose mine for exceptional looks and performance.
You ran $20 worth of lines, I ran $400 worth of lines. We both have equal results (well, probably not, but my fuel set-up is pretty advanced). Only difference is: Your engine looks like it had $20 spent on it, and mine looks like it had $400 spent on it.
Some of like aesthetics and function.
Other examples are:
I would buy a CF hood, whereas you would just lighten your existing hood with a holesaw.
I would get a SS DP, whereas you would make your own out of mild steel.
Both are acceptable forms of practice, and acheive the same results, but mine just looks better.
As for being able to build a similar setup with just flares... I haven't been able to find a Y-splitter for my fuel feed to my nitrous solenoids that wasn't AN. We all know that T blocks SUCK *** for flow, so how would you solve this problem?
12-01-02, 07:36 AM
#36
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Scathcart, you post a pic of your engine, and I'll post a pic of mine....
Most people buy the speedshop stuff, because they don't know the other stuff exists and where to get access to it.. I use AN fitting for some stuff, but I don't go to the speed shops and pay 25 bucks per fitting, I go to an industrial supplier and pay a 1.25 per fitting for the same thing minus the package..
If you want to spend more money than you have to , and end up with an overpriced inferior end result, be my guest dumbass, its up to you...
They sell y blocks in flare to, you just aren't looking in the right place...Max
Most people buy the speedshop stuff, because they don't know the other stuff exists and where to get access to it.. I use AN fitting for some stuff, but I don't go to the speed shops and pay 25 bucks per fitting, I go to an industrial supplier and pay a 1.25 per fitting for the same thing minus the package..
If you want to spend more money than you have to , and end up with an overpriced inferior end result, be my guest dumbass, its up to you...
They sell y blocks in flare to, you just aren't looking in the right place...Max
12-01-02, 10:14 AM
#37
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The banjo bolt to replace the PD is an Earl's part, number 997591. I believe Summit says its back ordered, I had to find one locally where I'm at, cost my $6. I just got the switch done, as my PD was leaking. Car drives perfectly without the PD.
