whats the easiest way to change the eshaft pulley without having to worry about the thrust bearing????? and do i really have to remove the radiator to do it???

 

I read you push in the clutch, and prop it there, to keep forward pressure on the thrust bearings, so they don't drop out of position..

 

....or you simply unbolt the pulley via the 4 bolts and don't remove the eccentric shaft nut....

Sean Cathcart

 

whenever i do put it on can i just put the power steering pulley on with it or do i have to put both the ac and ps pulleys. cause i dont use the ac..

 

Why do you need to change the pulley?&nbsp Underdrive pulley?



-Ted

 

yeah i have the RB underdrive forum... just a little scaried to change it cause of the bearing...

 

In the 3 engine swaps I've done, I could just unbolt the pulley via the 4 10mm (?) bolts that hold it on. I have enevr put on underdrive pullies. Why do you need to remove the eccentric shaft bolt?
Sean

 

because the underdrive pulley from rb that i have replaces the stock one. u have to take the bolt off to take the pulley off.....

 

if it is just like the stock pulley, it should just bolt on with 4 bolts.
I just finished an engine swap, and have done a couple others, and the engines needed to have the main pullies swapped over from the old engines.
these were S5 engines... are S4 engines different?
Sean

 

i dunno but on the series 4 whenever u take those 4 bolts off two pulleys come out the ps and the ac one. and when those are of the main pulley is bolted on still. thats the one that has to be replaced.

 

Well, I'll be damned.
On all the cars I've worked on, all three main pulleys simple came off via removing 4 10mm bolts in an off-centere pattern (so you couldn't put it on the wrong way for timing).
And, looking again at my FSM and haynes... looks like it does mount that way, with 4 bolts. If you've got em, check out pic 5.5 and 5.11 in chapter 2A of the haynes...
or the diagrams 7.3 b and 7.3 c in chapter 2b
How am I reading this wrong?
Sean

 

The main pully is bolted onto the E-shaft via one large pain in the *** bolt on series 4 and series 5 and first gens and third gens too I'd assume. The pully you speak of is not the main pully; it is the AC and Power steering pully. The main pully is the smallest one and has the oil pellet thingy under it. I did the swap when my car was still an automatic and that is supposed to be even harder because you need to actualy remove the starter and press up against the flywheel. I am not sure if I did it right but I haven't had any problems since so I must have got lucky.

 

how did u remove it and with what? i have air tools so it shouldnt be that hard. did u take anything out???

 

I tried using air tools and they just made alot of noise and did nothing. I used and an axle twister thingy that has a chain on it that gets tighter when you twist the handle. Kinda like an oil filter tool. But anyways; I used that and attached a steel pipe to the end of the wrench so it would reach the frame rail to the left of the air pump. With the wrench sitting on the frame rail, the pully was stabilized so I could use a breaker bar to get the nut loose although it was still not easy. That sucker is on there almost as good as the flywheel nut. Don't worry about damaging the stock pully because you are replacing it, Duh! Hope this helps in some way.

 

Oh yeah; a socket out of one of those lil in your trunk kits will turn to mush if you try and use it for this. Get a nice impact socket.

 

19mm socket...breaker bar...spin the thing till you can rest the breaker bar on the driver's side sub frame by the battery.&nbsp Close hood. Crank the start just for a split second - whallah, bolt is loose.



-Ted

 

what happens if i accidently start the thing???? will anything bad happen???

 

If you think you're going to start the engine, pull the TOP TWO fuses in the fuse block on the driver's side fender.

When I mean split-second, I mean UNDER 1 second of cranking!



-Ted