ok new plans for elaine tell me what you guys think

ok i want to keep her n/a for now so here it goes

ok rebuild with 3mm apex seals, racing beat resurfacing of housings, ultra light weight rotors from racing beat, engine balance from racing beat, big street port by racing beat, 89-91 ported intake manifold, modded and bored TB, racing beat dual outlet header hooking up to dual 3" pipe going to two X-TEC mufflers, dual ram air intake, haltech ECU, 8.5lb flywheel, street/strip pressure plate, pro-tec transmissions kevlar clutch, carbon fiber drive shaft, go back with stock 4.10's from the 5.12 gears, 100shot of NOS, mariah motorsports mode 6 wide body kit, black paint with either kosei 17x9 wheels or volk te37 17x9 wheels.

so what you think about it?? think i can get 300flywheel hp out of that setup?? without the NOS i mean, i want to get 400hp with NOS even if i have to go with a 130shot.

tell me your thoughts

 

I would say use a 93+ intake on that system... since ur using a haltech...

 

Me thinks Elaine is gonna be one hardcore little lady.

 

It's always fun to plot/scheme your killer RX-7 setup, but the excecution is what becomes difficult! That would be a sweet setup though...

 

haha, no way you're going to get 300hp without NOS. if you went with bridge port and carbon seals so you could spin to 10k you might get close. but you can't use the carbon seals with NOS.

you would also want brand new housing not resurfaced. more power.

turbo is alot cheaper....

 

You want 300 horsepower out of a normally aspirated rotary? Not going to happen. You'll have to add a huge shot of NOS to get that much.

Is this going to be a track only car? I'm not sure how streetable an 8.5 lb flywheel will be.

 

I think it would be about 3/4 cheaper and will produce just as much
power to go with a secondary bridge
with a jay-tech manifold and a 650 Barry Grant carb

 

the only reason im not going bridge port, i dont want to rebuild the motor every 30k miles, i just want a good street port to last from 90-130k, even if 300hp is not possible without going bridge ill just get a good shot of NOS i figured 300 flywheel hp was possible since there are some FC's doin around 230flywheel on stock port and ecu. if not thats ok, she will still be a fast n/a

 

If you got a Peripheral Ported 13B then you could get 300HP pretty easy. With just a huge street port, you would probably only see around 200-225hp depending on how much tuning you could get done.

Keep in mind that if you go that large of shot of NOS, then you probably won't see 90-130K miles on the motor if the NOS is used frequestly.

I would also just go with the 2MM seals, as I think the 3MM is an overkill for a 13B N/A. Make sure to get the 93+ corner seals.

If you want that kind of mileage, get a moderate street port and add a 100 shot wet nitrous system. With the Haltech E6K that should put you at about 225rwhp off the bottle and over 300hp with the bottle.

What are your plans as far as cooling goes?

Also, will 17X9's fit on the front without spacers or coilovers?

 

no way. probably in the back. My friend just bought a set of 17x8.5 38mm offset. the back is fine. he needed spacers to clear the front springs but they now stick out the side. I haven't seen it on the ground yet but I bet he will be hitting the fender on the tire over bumps. time for some wide body fenders

 

Dual 3" exhaust is overkill too.

 

i can live with 225rwhp, i wont use the bottle very often, once in a blue moon, or every three months whichever you prefer to use lol, j/k, ill be making the exhaust so it wont cost meh anything, 2.5" or 2.75" be better?? another reason i wanna go with a street port, more low end than the bridge and PP, oh do 2mm PHE, Powerhouse Engineering, they say their 2mm racing seals are 50% stronger than stock 2mm seals, why do i need the 93+ corner seals?? i am also considering having all the internals Cryo'd would that be wise or no?? any more info will help, with a big street port i will make power at around 7500rpm im thinking, is that right??

 

oh also, i have some 15" rims that stick out of the side of the fenders, they are 15x7.5 with a +35mm offset, they say Epsilon on them, what does that mean?? they were on a GSL-SE and they look sweet, they look kinda like the vert BBS wheels

 

I'd disagree with that. With a super large street-port and a 100 shot wet-nitrous system, 3" exhaust isn't overkill. It would be fine with 2.5", but if any future mods are done, there's no harm in having the extra exhaust diameter. And who would want to go single 3" anyway on an N/A????

 

I have a set of Zeit 17X 8.5 with 235 45 in the front and 17x9.5 YES 9.5 in the rear with 255 45 and NO spacers were needed, it was a very close fit but THEY FIT,

 

Only a moron would run dual 3", unless its a monster PP engine or something. Anyway, I believe the header he says he is going to run has the piping too close together for pipes that big..

 

On a n/a car, where exhaust pulse tuning determines the powerband for the most part, you do not want the exhaust pipes to be much, if any, bigger than the exhaust ports. It kills the exhaust gas velocity, which hurts torque and drivability, but offers very little gain in exhaust gas volume, which does not give much of an increase in hp at all.

It doesnt work the same for turbo cars. Bigger pipes help the turbo spool quicker, and keep it from running out of steam in the top of the powerband.

Bigger pipes do make more power with NOS, but if you plan on using it as little as you say, you will be killing drivability just for a few extra hp on the bottle.

Dual 2" pipes are the best for an n/a car. Thats whats on my car.

 

No, you won't get 300 at the flywheel. 250 if you are VERY lucky.

I wouldn't use 3mm seals. The only reason to use those is if your rotors are too worn to accept the stock size.

Why go with FD corner seals? They aren't any different... now, the FD corner seal SPRINGS are different, and should be used.

Oh... 250 in a lightweight car will spank a stock FD.

Brad

 

I agree with mazdaspeed. Duall all the way back for an n/a. The only reason a cat back would be better with 1/4 inch larger tubing is for the fact that non mandrel bends decrease the diameter of the pipe when thier bent although Im sure you wont tell the diff.

 

I think you can achieve 275 with big street port. At flyweel of course. You may hit mid 13s in quarter. Let us know your progress. Beating stock third gens sounds like fun.

 

I will be racing a stock, auto 93 touring soon. I really think I can beat him. I will definately have a video of this when I do it.

 

Should be pretty close.

 

thanks for all the responses guys, 275 at the flywheel sounds good to me no one answered mah question yet will i be making peak power around 7500rpm?? i saw on racing beat that the fastest all motor n/a is 14.1 seconds on record, its still counts as all motor ported, am i right?? what you guys think, stay with 5.12 gears or go back with 4.10??

 

when you look at the race ports i thinks its the same size but hey i can stand back 5 feet from my car and feel the pulses very easy,i dont thin im haven a exhaust gas velocity problem , i have the apex n1 on mine with the silencers ,Im sure someone else has this setup ,i also used the 2mm carbon apex seals with the race corner seals and springs as such turned out well but im still looking for more horses also.get the deep groove bearings and the 3 port rotor bearings lets see oh dont forget the high volume oil pump and also get the thermo pellet replacement for the eccentric shaft that allows good solid oil pressure to the rotors ...I wanna put a weber setup on mine 51 ida or close

 

The porting/mods necessary to get 275 hbp will move your power peak to 8500-9000 rpm. You will need a lot of work on the fuel system to get there. You will need 4x720 cc injectors, and a high flow fuel pump, at least. I am leaning out at high rpm's still in my car. I have 550 cc secondaries, and am putting another pair of 550 cc injectors in my primaries this week. I also have my fuel pressure raised trying to get more fuel through the injectors, but it isnt nearly enough. The colder that air is, the sooner I can feel power falling off from leaning out.