kleetuz

iTrader: (2)

Just wanted to give some input and get some input from people who have used this kit.

Here's what happened for me.

Installed the Bump Steer Correction Kit today. On the driver's side the piece that provides the mount for the rod end, the piece that is bolted to the upright, fit snug, no gap between the bottom surface of the tapered hole and the new piece. On the driver's side there was about 3-4mm gap between the two surfaces. Then when I tried to remove the lock nut it the threads stripped completely out of it, luckily the male threads were not harmed at all -- Here's the point to mention that I paid $160 for a kit with rod end's that have china stamped on them so who knows where the nuts and other hardware are from or what there quality is -- awesome (how about a US manufacutrer mazdatrix?).

Finally I after visiting the hardware store and getting a replacement nut and trying to bolt it on again, same deal, the driver's side piece will not sit flush. Torqued this to 60 ft lbs (Just a guesstimate - there were no fitment specifications or instructions included) on both sides and cannot get the driver's side to sit flush. So I figured alright I'll just leave it and deal with it later. Finished connecting the tie rods to the rod ends and put everything in place. Then when I go to check the toe setting, at the very minimum toe setting I have 26mm toe out, and Can't go any less! I'm running a about 45mm drop so it's nothing extreme but I figure the toe setting should be able to get a straight alignment even if the car wasn't lowered at all, even if at stock height it might create bump steer issues it should still be able to set the toe to 0mm at the least right?

So anyone have some input?
Did I get the wrong parts shipped to me?
Do I have to run a 3" drop or something like that for this kit to get a zero toe setting?

BFGRX7

iTrader: (2)

A couple of things... I have this kit and I haven't had any issues with the nut stripping. The tapered rod ends did not go in completely on either end. I simply made sure that the gaps were the same on both arms. I would suggest doing the same with your kit by removing some of the material at the hole in which the rod ends go into the steering arm to make it fit snug. If you have a demel, you'll be set.

Based on your costs for the kit, it sounds like you've got the full kit. When you're installing the full kit, that is, the spindle and rack bolt (attaches between the "rack" and tie rod) you will have to remove @ 1/2 on boths tie rods in order to get a proper alignment.

Still don't know why Dave didn't add directions on how to install these (knowing him, he's probably covering his ***!), he's a crotchedy old man, but that is what you'll need to do in order for the kit to work.

~Mike

kleetuz

iTrader: (2)

Well my idea is not to modify the stock parts of the car so when I want to put the stock parts back on I can, which is what I had to do after the toe out was seen to be unadjustable back to zero.

It's frustrating that there is no mention of modifying the tie rods on their website, nor when I talked to them on the phone to order the kit, and there were no specs or instructions included. I'll have to get in touch with them today and talk to them about this.

What I'm really disappointed in though is the quality of the parts in general, these rod ends seriously look like junk and on one of them the race isn't even pressed in all the way and it slides smooth and then sticks at a certain point. I should have just not installed them and sent them back after noticing that. Because I doubt I will be able to return it now.

After measuring these the tolerances from piece to piece are not very uniform, especially the tapers, which explains why one fits flush and the other does not.