Problems with Heater hose under Throttle Body....Ideas?
#1
Got Rotors?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Problems with Heater hose under Throttle Body....Ideas?
I was upgrading my injectors and had the throttle body removed. I ended up using a longer heater hose to replace the stock little one (it was cut during removal) that connects the throttle body to the engine block. Unfortunately it must have kinked (it was short but it was from straight hose stock) and I had coolant leaking all over and now have to start again. Any ideas or suggestions on repalcing this hose with something that can be longer for ease of replacement? I had heard someone suggest using a long fuel hose and coiling it, will this kink?
Any ideas would be appreciated.....the swear words were long and furiosu this morning at 9:00am in Ontario?
Thanks
Any ideas would be appreciated.....the swear words were long and furiosu this morning at 9:00am in Ontario?
Thanks
#2
order the stock one its a couple bucks and shape perfectly do not short cut any thing to do with coolant im not saying you are but any coolant hose shoud be knew dont drive the car until then you will thank me our rx7s are so finiky when it comes to the cooling system good luck
#3
Got Rotors?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I hear ya Dennis. It will be sitting until I fix it properly. I priced it out at Mazda and it is only 7 bucks. I was just looking to see if there was an easy mod that would allow this hose to be longer so removing the TB would be easier. Oh well, looks like a do over....arghhh!
#4
Make Money.
iTrader: (6)
I would just get a basic 90 degree hose that's longer than the stock one and then just make sure that when you drop the UIM in place it doesn't kink. Also, make sure that you use screw type clamps, as opposed to the stock clamps that need pliers to remove/install (which is a PITA). Personally, I hate the hose so much that I just removed the thermowax etc. and just capped it off. The UIM can be off in less than a minute this way. Whatever, I know some people will swear by the thermowax and keeping the stock coolant setup--but personally, getting the coolant away from my UIM was nice in every way.
#5
I'm a boost creep...
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 15,608
Likes: 0
Received 8 Likes
on
8 Posts
While a long hose will make the job easier, once you know how to do it the stock hose is nowhere near as hard to disconnect and reconnect as people claim. The trick is to use screw clamps and mentioned and to remove the rubber elbow from the TB. This will allow you to tilt the UIM up and back and make the hose and it's clamps easily accessible, like this:
IMO reducing functionality (i.e. removing the thermowax) just to make this very occasional job easier is just madness...
IMO reducing functionality (i.e. removing the thermowax) just to make this very occasional job easier is just madness...
#6
Lives on the Forum
Yeah, it makes me wonder if you use a piece of regular straight hose or a pre-formed 90-degree hose?
You cannot use a straight piece of hose, cause it'll kink.
Even if you get no coolant leaks, the kinked hose will prevent coolant from affecting the cold-start thermowax on the throttle body.
If you still have those cold-start theromowax still in effect, the idle speed will never never come down from about 2,000RPM.
The pre-formed bend will allow the hose to clear the really tight clearance to the UIM.
Once the UIM is bolted down, you get barely a 1/2" of clearance for the hose.
Using a straight piece of hose will only cause the hose to kink in this spot.
The 90-degree bend should go all the way as possible before hitting the fitting ont he rear iron.
This ensures that you get the best route away from the UIM.
Of course, you have the option to plug all that **** up and remove the cold-start thermowax.
Hope you don't live somewhere too cold?
(Hmmm...Canada...nevermind. )
-Ted
You cannot use a straight piece of hose, cause it'll kink.
Even if you get no coolant leaks, the kinked hose will prevent coolant from affecting the cold-start thermowax on the throttle body.
If you still have those cold-start theromowax still in effect, the idle speed will never never come down from about 2,000RPM.
The pre-formed bend will allow the hose to clear the really tight clearance to the UIM.
Once the UIM is bolted down, you get barely a 1/2" of clearance for the hose.
Using a straight piece of hose will only cause the hose to kink in this spot.
The 90-degree bend should go all the way as possible before hitting the fitting ont he rear iron.
This ensures that you get the best route away from the UIM.
Of course, you have the option to plug all that **** up and remove the cold-start thermowax.
Hope you don't live somewhere too cold?
(Hmmm...Canada...nevermind. )
-Ted
#7
Got Rotors?
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: cambridge, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 406
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
NZ,
Which rubber elbow are you referring too? I have heard that fuel hose is much more stiff and could be used as you have it looking on your system.
RETed, yeah unfortunately it does get cold here, a weather type you will not have to deal with (Lucky you).
I learned my lesson with the straight flimsy heater hose, that will not be done again. Ideally I guess I would just like to get a hose with additional lenght. Unfortunately our parts stores have a hard time dealing with finding parts that are "made up" to fit other applications.
Thanks for the info so far!
Which rubber elbow are you referring too? I have heard that fuel hose is much more stiff and could be used as you have it looking on your system.
RETed, yeah unfortunately it does get cold here, a weather type you will not have to deal with (Lucky you).
I learned my lesson with the straight flimsy heater hose, that will not be done again. Ideally I guess I would just like to get a hose with additional lenght. Unfortunately our parts stores have a hard time dealing with finding parts that are "made up" to fit other applications.
Thanks for the info so far!
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post