Robftw

iTrader: (1)

I was driving the car for the past 3 days with no problems at all, i parked it last night and it refused to start.

The rotor housings are dry, nothing coming out of the plug holes. I am getting proper fuel pressure from the pump (it was just replaced) and all of the fuel filters are brand new.

I am getting spark, i checked each coil pack individually and the spark plugs are brand new.

I took the UIM off, removed the secondary injectors and cleaned / replaced the old orings and soaked the injectors in carb cleaner, they were clean and i was able to activate them with a 9v battery. I also cleaned out the fuel rail.

I attempted to get the LIM off but after hitting it with a rubber mallet it would not budge at all. I tripled checked that all of the bolts and hoses were removed. Nothing. I gave up and put it back together

If i pour some gasoline or starter fluid down the manifold the car starts right up and runs until it runs out of fuel, i was even able to take it up to 4000 rpm (DRIVING) up the road... the secondaries never fired either, the car just stalled out.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The smallest ECU plug has four Light Green wires. These wires should have 12 volts w/key to on. The injectors receive voltage from either the Black/Yellow wire or a Brown wire depending upon whether the car has the Resistor Box or not. If the voltage wire has proper voltage "and" the injector plugs are properly fastened to the injectors then the Green wires at the ECU will have battery voltage w/key to on. This needs to be verified.

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

I have 12v coming from each light green wire.

The secondary injectors have a black wire with a yellow stripe

satch

iTrader: (1)

It could be a problem originating from the ECU but it's more likely a fuel issue. Have you tested for fuel pressure by teeing in a pressure gauge at the "return" line. This would measure the pressure "after" the fuel has gone through both rails, pulsation damper and FPR so it provides the most accurate reading.

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

Yes i have, it stays within 1-3 psi of where its supposed to be,

edit:

Thats with putting the key on "On" multiple times checking to be sure

satch

iTrader: (1)

Another thing is your focus should be on the "primary injetors" as the secondaries only work w/the car under load and above 3800 rpm so until that happens the primaries are the only injectors that would be working and this involves starting the car.

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

I was going to check that next, is there a way to trick the ECU into thinking the engine is under load at a standstill? from what i understand i can remove a vacuum line and it will read zero and make the secondaries fire.

I do not however, know where this line is

satch

iTrader: (1)

You would have to have the car running and the rpm north of 3800, but if the pressure sensor vacuum line is disconnected and capped in addition to the TPS plug disconnected it would trick the engine into thinking it was under load.

When you checked for the fuel pressure was this done w/the fuel check connector jumpered and key to on or the key was just put to start?

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

Jumpered with key on for the first 2 tests, Not jumpered for the second 2 tests

satch

iTrader: (1)

On the last two tests I assume that the key was put to start. Correct assumption?

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

Yes


On a side note, does the CAS tell the injectors when to fire? i was getting a CEL code on occasion, i thought it was just the air temp sensor.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

yes, without the CAS you have no ignition or injectors.

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

The car runs when fuel / starter fluid is poured into the manifold. I have spark too.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the role of the CAS does this but it also tells the coils to fire as well so if you have one it stands to reason that you should also have the other, but maybe there is more to it than meets the eye. You could try cleaning the CAS pigtail connection to start with. You could also check for error codes too as one of the error codes relates to the CAS.

You could also remove a spark plug from the front rotor housing and then remove the small ECU plug which houses the Green wires and then take a long jumper wire and place one end into the back of the ECU plug where the Light Green wire resides ( front primary) and then take the other end of the long jumper wire with you as you peer into the engine bay and w/key to on and place the jumper wire to a ground source and you should hear the primary injector click in addition to seeing it spray perhaps. Don't ground this jumper wire for a long period of time but rather short spurts and you should see fuel in the front rotor housing.

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

I cleaned the connections, and i dont know how to check the error codes to find exactly whats wrong with it.

The problem with my ecu is i dont have a single small connector for the injectors, it was actually one large piece with multiple wires. The 4 light green wires are together on the far left.

satch

iTrader: (1)

An S4 ECU has three individual plugs and the smallest one houses the injector wires.

Error codes info.

http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/error%20codes.html

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

This is an S5 car, here is a picture of the ECU

satch

iTrader: (1)

About Robftw
Car
1987 Rx7
Gender
Male
Location
New York

I was using the info you provided above.

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

I just took another look at the car, i really wish i could have gotten the LIM off.

I see old grass and things like that under the LIM. I wonder if the wires were chewed up by a mouse.

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

Oh that was my old car, sorry i forgot to change that information

satch

iTrader: (1)

Pin 3W is for the front primary injector on an "S5."

Trying once again. S5 error codes.

http://www.banzai-racing.com/FD&S5_error_codes.htm

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

3 Long & 3 Short Solenoid Valve (Port Air Bypass) Open or Short Circuit

.Solenoid Valve Connector
.Wiring from Solenoid Valve to ECU
.Solenoid Valve Continuity

satch

iTrader: (1)

That's for emissions and should have no affect related with your current problem.

Robftw

iTrader: (1)

Is it possible my primaries are just clogged up? or loose wires? thats the only other thing i can think of right now.

Also it pulsed like this:

3 long

small pause

3 short

satch

iTrader: (1)

You stated that the Light Green wires had 12 volts w/key to on so that means the wires to the injector are secure. It's possible the Light Green wires at the ECU are pulled back within the plug but that's not likely but it's an easy check.

Sure, your primaries can be clogged and I have read that soaking them in fluid can damage them but if you apply the jumper wire suggestion then you will be able to find out one way or the other if this were the case.

There is a Green check connector in the engine bay featuring three wires w/the wire colors as follows. Black/White, Yellow and Yellow/Black. W/key to on the B/W wire should have 12 volts to it.