junito1

This is all i know.

On cold starts the engine smokes for like 30 seconds or less, then goes away.
During WOT it doesnt smoke, but as soon as i let go of the gas to shift grey/white smoke puffs out pretty bad-- but once i get in next gear WOT again its not smoking.


Also.. the car it flooding during hot starts.


My uncle said the water seals were weak like half a year ago. could this be?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

If it's oil smoke, you need new oil o-rings. Meaning a rebuild.

Water seals aren't "weak". They are either good or bad.

Hot start issue is a number of things. Could be dirty injectors, or low compression.

junito1

NEw weird problem. PLEASE help me guys. Might be part of the ^^ problem

The motor last night was acting up...... I cranked it and after about 2 minutes of it running it suddenly started running on one rotor(atleast that is what it sounded like)--SO i turned it off..(big mistake) I would not start after i shut it off. Push started it and it started on one rotor but cleared up after a few seconds and the second rotor kicked back in.

SO,This morning i got new sprk plugs. The car cranked right up.(made another ******* gaY MISTAKE and messed with idle L-R in engine bay-and car shut off)

Tried to crank it and it flooded.....GRRRR(hella pissed by now)
So i continued to with the unflooding method(pull EGI fuse trick)
Tried this process over like 10 times w no luck.

SO i said **** it. I bet it will crank if i push start this bitch.

SO i did. When we pushed started it-- it cranked right up.... BUT on ONE rotor agian. But this time i had to drive around the whole block before the "second rotor" kicked back in. and even then.. i had to WOT on one rotor(no power whatsoever) and by 5,500rpms or so the second rotor kicked in and the car to off...


WTF am i dealing with here guys?



Are my coils going bad?!!!! one of them atleast?

sunshine

iTrader: (3)

Check grounds.
-a

kenny senter

possible causes

1. stuck injector
2. bad coils
3. water seals

those are the 3 obvious things that stand out to me right now. Its time to just start checking things off your list.

junito1

Stuck injector sounds like the prob. Due to the motor wnting to run on both rotors in higher rpms probably cause of my 720cc secondaries..

I need freaking 88tII high imp injectors... kinda hard to find... ANyone know where to get them new? or rebuilt.. whatever they do.

coils.. i dont know about coils.. but i know if i dont have spart the rotor wont work. heh

aND water seals... I just hope it isnt this one...

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you have an injector not firing. Check the condition of the plugs around the primary injectors.

junito1

injector seems to be the place to start.

could adding premix cause an injector to be clogged?

dellenrules

Is your engine throwing a code when you drive it? If so I would check that.
It seems like your oil metering pump went bad.
If your RX7 is 89-91 then you have an S5 engine.
When your Oil seals start to go bad, apparently the Oil metering pump decides to work harder causing it to fail.
When it goes bad the engine kicks into limp mode and prevents the secondary injectors from kicking off.

And your secondary injectors are not activing aren't they... That explains the sound you hear, and why you think it's only running on one rotor.

When the oil metering pump goes bad... it takes the ECU with it. If you replace one you need to replace the other. When replacing... DO NOT RECONNECT YOUR BATTERY CABLES UNTIL BOTH HAVE BEEN REPLACED.

My recommendation is to remove your OMP completely, replace with a block off plate, get a new ECU with the OMP feature removed from it, and premix.

skatingsamurai

if you have an exsesive amount of flooding, idle on one rotor, and it goes away once you rev, try checking your FPR (fuel pressure regulator). when this happened to me, the FPR was letting fuel in during vacum through the hoses in to one of the housings...when you rev past vacuum. vamoose, problem goes away.

do you also get absolutely horrific MPG?

junito1

I am not sure on my full engine combo/setup.

I do know this.

S5 turbo mani and turbo
S4 front plate with mech. OMP
S4 88tII factory wiring harness with old stock primary injectors


And if i had to take a guess i would say one of my primaries is not working. and when i WOT and it gets to about 4,500 rpms the dead rotor comes back to live.
This could be because of my secondary being able to feed the rotor enough to make it sound normal...

junito1

skatingsamuria..

could you explain your past experience again please. I dont quite follow you.

skatingsamurai

well several months ago, my car would have trouble starting. when it did start it would idle on one rotor. like it was just off. i could smell and see smoke comming out of the exhaust it was straight up gas fumes. well. i couldnt get the timming right, so went in and had it checked out because i was completely out of ideas, turns out. the FPR was busted and allowing fuel into the vacuum lines straight into the engine i guess. (according to the mechanic) swapped the the FPR and could rev normal. before, when it was screwed, i would have to floor it and then it would drive right but if i gave it anything less then 1/2 throttle it would just sputter.

also this was degenerative....meaning it diddnt just happen all of the sudden....i could notice it become more and more severe over time.

junito1

^^ sounds like prob..

But first time it even happened was when i was cruising on the highway and it just did it out of nowhere. (one rotor stopped) but like 2 miles down the road(i kept driving) the problem cleared up and the motor was back to normal( pulled the same and everything.

junito1

could a moderator please repost this with a better thread name? One that suites my real prob and not the smoking issue. Idk if its possible, but nice if you could thanks guys

Funkspectrum

iTrader: (5)

Check the injector clip too. you could have a pin that's backing out or loose....

And the thread title changed as per requested.

junito1

^^ aroncake said the same thing about the clip or plug being in bad conditions...

I will try this first. I havent had time to do anything yet. But i hope i can fix it my self, because there arent any knowledgable,trustworthy, rotary mechanic in my area.

P.S. could i have hurt the motor by driving on one rotor and wot on one rotor 2 seperate times.

junito1

update.

I checked if i had spark today. All my coils work properly.
I took off the upper plenum. The primary injectors look ok...(to me, I dont know what to look for.)

The injectors plugs look intact. I did notice 1 of the primary plugs had a little tiny bit of play- when non of the other clips moved at all.

junito1

bump!

skatingsamurai

do you have access under the UIM again? pull the vac hose off the FPR and smell for gas. thats usually a sure sign. but if you have one from another rx7 it couldnt hurt just to swap it out anyways. parts dont last forever so your going to have to replace it eventually. oh and as for the clips, just replace them. 15 bucks off ebay. its real easy if you just take your time, drink some coffee (or prefered beverage) and get it done.

junito1

when you say FPR are you talking about the original one bolted to the fuel rail? OR the Aeromotive Aftermarket FPR

skatingsamurai

one is a fuel pressure regulator and one is a fuel pulsation damper. two different things. if you have something that is aftermarket on the fuel rail make sure it is working properly.

vato2000taco

iTrader: (1)

ok check this out my car ran like **** up until 3500 when secondary inj. kick in and then it would fly , drove it for about 3 months just kept rpms up so secs were working . i had an afr of 11.5 under boost and was running 10 psi i checked everything i could think of , changed tps sensor ooh yeah was hard to crank when warm and flooded easy . easy to start cold though . tps made easier to crank after i adjusted it i unplugged injectoras at an auto x race and swapped them around to see if it helped and no still ran the same. i finally unplugged rear rotor spark plugs and ran the same , i unplugged the front and plugged up rear and no start at all so that told me rear rotor was where it was at so i took the uim back off for thr tenth time and as sure as **** my rear injector harness had a wire hanging out bare . pulled tape off of the harness and it had been butt connected and the wire had been pulled out when i removed rats nest and upgraded injectors. so i hooked it back up and it ran like a scolded dog best it ever has since ive owned it . Now my afrs are like 9-10 s under boost at 10 psi so i turned up to like 15 and like 12.0 afr now .
my advice pull plug wires one rotor at a time leading and trailind at same time and try and crank it and see what happens . this will tell you where you have a bad connection or clogged injector if that is what it is

junito1

I think i understand. Im listening for full ignition of the fuel? And the rotor that is the quietest is the "dead one" with no fuel.

I think i cant handle that..
Is it cool to crank it with the upper plenum off?

junito1

Update.

I tried the trick. I started by disconnecting the spark plug wires to the rear 2otor.
My upper intake manifold is off. Anyways I tried to crank it with just the front rotor connected and it just kept turning.

Then, I did the same thing with the front rotor. Disconnected front and now connected rear. I tried to crank it----- and the bastard started on one rotor.... haha.

So my front rotor is the "dead one"

What do i do next? Test the injector plug? somehow........

PS. There is a rx7 meet on the 31st in my hometown and im trying to make it.=/