im thinking this is my problem of the car losing all power after warming up for a bit. I tried hooking up the positive probe into 2B of ecu pin. and its giving me 12v in the on position, running, idle, 2,000 rpms and 6,000rpms. is it bad??? anyone else have this problem. i have no restrictor pill.

Its revving, starting, and driving fine now, thanks to some helpful hints of wayne and sonicrat. But when i get going and i boost for a bit, i lose all power like it wants to die. i shut it off, turn it back on, and bam, im boosting like a mad man again. come to a stop light. start to drive again, same ****. boggs down, no power. so i shut it off, turn it back on. and im good again. wus up with it. my grounds are good. tps reads 4.1v at wot at the ecu, and its set to 1k ohm. and afm is good also. the only thing i see that it might be is the pressure sensor.

also, should i get rid of the twin scroll actuator setup and wire the flapper open??? cuz i think that maybe the problem. i took the little black thing off that controlls the airflow of it and connected the hose straight to the uim. but its been doing this before i did the removal of the black thing.

Help me!

 

Unless the turbo boost sensors are different, no way should you be reading a 12v input at the ECU, especially if they have the 5 vref signal going to it like the NA's. Take a look at the ECU writeup we've got going, and see what Hailers got at that pin at idle (bottom of the first page). Here are my readings, but like I said, don't know how different the NA boost sensors are from the turbos (other than the turbos' ability to read positive boost pressures).

3.5 volts, key on
1.25v, idle
1.8v, cruise
3.3v, WOT
.2v, decel

 

nevermind my motor blew. haha. ******* eh. i beleive i broke 2 apex seals in the rear rotor housing. i blame fuel cut. it happend under boost and its def acting retarded now. ill do more tests(compression checks) to see how messed up i made it. i was going to rebuild it anyways. but not this early.

im getting off national guard and going air force reserves. there giving me a $8,000 bonus. so $4000 instatly goes into my account, $3000 for down payment on my house(im only 19, but i am a veteran so i get instant credit). and $1000 on rebuilt motor.

 

Bummer man...If you chucked a seal or two, might be more than a grand you're looking at. Rotor housing alone is 'bout $500...Sorry, but just think of the monster you can build now

 

TII's use a 5vref pressure sensor. I don't believe you should hook the twin scroll straight to the manifold. What were you boosting to?

 

i didnt notice my boost controller shut off on me, stalled the car, restarted it, and forgot to turn on the boost controller, probalby 10psi.

someone offered me localy a 13bt block with 3,000 miles on a rebuild, says he was running on a haltech. selling it for $700, so ill prob just pick that up. wish me luck, newest project, haltech powered 13bt with a retarded large ports and 1600cc injectors. the haltech is so i dont have to worry about pressure sensor. haha. wish me luck in the next couple weeks.