uRizen

iTrader: (2)

My uncle will be allowing me to borrow a 2 1/8" socket and 3/4" breaker bar from him tomarrow so that I can pull the flywheel nut off, and I already have the entire front cover assembly removed and everything cleaned up. I do have to pull the studs off for the water pump housing, but I don't forsee any problems there.

I do not have an engine stand, so I built a rig out of some old timber that is tall enough to keep the e-shaft from bottoming out on the concrete and the engine will set nice and snug so I shouldn't have to worry about tipping it over.

I plan on street porting this motor at some point, but for now I just want to take it apart, measure everything and make sure it will be suitable for the task. The engine had 100k on it and still compresses well.

Here's the current concerns:

1 - Organization of engine internals.

I think I have a pretty decent system planned for organizing the seals and other parts, but I would like to know how the rest of you rebuild veterns organize your rebuilds. I plan on putting all the current seals back into this engine after I measure everything and letting it sit for a couple of months until I can afford new apex's, rubber seals, and any other parts that need replacement.

I have two sheets of paper. Each one has a picture of the front and back of the rotor, and each seal has a label. For example, the top apex seal on rotor one is labeled "R1-Apex1", the back corner seal would be "R1-CS1b" or "R1-CS1f" for the front. I then plan on putting the seal and it's respective spring in a sealed ziplock bag with the label marked on it along with what the seal measures at so I can easily compare everything after it's all out.

2 - Tools for measurement.

I have never used a micrometer, dial guage or anything fancy like that and need to get a hold of some decent tools. Keep in mind that I will only be using these on the very rare occasion that I need to rebuild an engine and take these measurements, so I'd like to keep the cost down. I have been told by a guy at work that used to do aluminium fabricating that http://www.useenco.com has some good deals, but I'm not sure what I'm looking for in terms of minimum to maximum measurement, and the increments.

Any advice on what measurements tools I need would be appreciated. So far the list includes a clamp-style micrometer (for measuring seals), dial guage (for meassuring run-outs and housing), and an inside micrometer (for checking bearings).

Thanks for any tips you can give me, I can't wait to crack my first one open and unleash hell.

WAYNE88N/A

Only thing I found I needed as far as measuring goes was a dual (inside/outside) metric dial caliper (6", I believe). About $30 at Northern Tool. If you don't think you can read the little dial and count the lines, get a digital model for a bit more...

banzaitoyota

i use a mazda seal box to organize seals, I have 2 dedicated workbenches available for laying parts out.

I pre-load the rotors one night, assemble keg the next

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I suppose Mazda woul d have made an official box. Do you have a picture of it?

banzaitoyota

http://www.mazdatrix.com/toolmisc.htm

skatingsamurai

but wait what about all of those other tools that are listed. can you substitute any of the tools listed on that mazdatrix sight with simple things like a hammer? i need to know becuase i am rebuilding my engine and i have a very small budget.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

this thread is a year and a half old you know..

turboefini88

iTrader: (1)

A hammer is a BAD BAD BAD Idea for "pressing" bearings if thats what your gonna use it for. Advance Auto PArts and Pepboys both have tool rentals. Get yourself a balljoint bress tool and find air and an airgun. Save yourself the agrivation and the money to replace stat gears and rotors if ya use a hammer on the bearings.

As far as what to use to press out the rotor bearings. You might get away with using a large impact socket. I used one on my stat gear bearings on our press at work. No issues. Luckily, I didnt have to replace my rotor bearings.

turboefini88

iTrader: (1)

KArak, at least he used the "Search" button. lol. Gotta be how he found the thread.

smokie

iTrader: (5)

pep boys sale a impact gun for about 80 bucks invest in it, its the best thing to ever do

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You really don't need any special tools to build an engine. The only "weird" tool is the flywheel nut socket.

If you intend on changing bearings, you need a press or a big vice and a mandrel to press the old bearings out with.

A feeler gauge is something that everyone should have, and a dial indicator is necessary when doing any kind of engine building.

I'm going to get hanged for this, but an inside and outside micrometer is optional. Replace the bearings if there is any doubt or the mileage is over 100K. Any less and they're fine as long as they are not physically damaged or the engine didn't run low on oil or overrev.

skatingsamurai

thanks guys, if i have to do this in the freezing temps, its not going to be a cakewalk. i have been secretely considering, sending my parts and the short block to get rebuilt.....i dont know what i should dooooo. there should be an rx7 therapist or something.

micah

I'll be hitting harbor freight for my tools here soon. And I'll make a box for seals.. I can't justify spending 70 bucks on a wood box for rotor side seals.... Thats possibly the most retarded thing i've ever seen. All of you who spent 70 bucks on a small wooden box should send their extra cash to me. I'll make an even nicer one for 45 bucks shipped! Hehe.

I'm actually going to be doing my engine soon... Is it absolutely necessary to assemble the engine stacked from the front plate up.. vertically? or can it be done on a bench, sideways? If it does have to be vertical, I'll just make something out of wood like the previous poster.

What are the chances of my 147k engine having reusable bearings?

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

An old cigar box with dividers made of cardboard make a fine "rotor seal box" that's basically free.

mort2002

iTrader: (1)

for a stand you can use a old tin coffe can. it will fit snugly on the rear iorn, and allow enough room for the e-shaft to fit inside of it...

micah

Now thats juset good ole fasion ingenuity.