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premixing reservoir without stock OMP

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Old 11-20-07, 05:19 PM
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What no answers? Those questions don't get any easier. They are all "yes" or "no". Seeing as how there are no answers, is it safe to assume that every answer is a resounding "NO?" The fact that you are failing to take responsibility to thoroughly test things before posting your illconcieved opinions as fact just bolsters my claims that anything and everything that you claim should be ignored.

Actaully Rotary Resurection gave a rather detailed write-up on how he converted his OMP to inject 2-stroke. There are a few other threads out there that detail the same. Personally (I have the S6 version & it retails right around $1,500) I would rather spend the $85 on the adapter but that's me. I thought about doing it then I thought about the time involved, the potential for leaks etc etc etc and decided that it was worth it to just buy the adapter.
Old 11-20-07, 05:42 PM
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https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...ight=RESERVOIR
Old 11-20-07, 07:07 PM
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Old 11-20-07, 07:32 PM
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I have the richard sohn adapter on my car, installed it when I put in my reman. I currently have it plumbed to ap racings largest brake fluid reservior, and that is not big enough to run w/o a low level sender, so I just picked up a poly float switch from www.liquidlevel.com (single level switch part # sm-1100-pp under $30) which will be installed (thru a 1/2" hole, no threaded bung required) in the side of a canton can80-201 2 qt coolant expansion tank from hrpworld.com ($108) the old reservoir, about 10 oz or so, was good for MAYBE an hour at track engine load conditions. the omp adapter required either clocking the pump motor on its base (a pita) or re silver soldering the front turbo oil return for clearance, which I did. I run golden spectro sythetic blend 2 cycle oil, which gave the best results from my motocross days as compared to amsoil, castrol, or mc-1, but any ashless dispersant 2 cycle oil would be better than motor oil. it would be a hell of a job to install this with the engine in the car, just so you know. Very tight in that area.

tom
Old 11-20-07, 10:38 PM
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http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
Old 11-20-07, 11:34 PM
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thats the adapter I've got...

t
Old 11-21-07, 01:02 AM
  #32  
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reply to rotaman...

you stated that with pressureized air and a bad checkvalve, oil could get pushed back thru the injector....

do you have any idea how the oil injectors work? it isnt vented to the atmosphere... it is vented in the same atmosphere the intercooler is in...

under 8psi, how would anything gets pushed back, when theres 8psi on the other atmosphere against it? it would get sucked/pulled in like a NA engine would at WOT.

Also, did you know S5 emop have limp mode? kinda makes your write up useless... 7 bolts to replace a emop... or take the front of the motor off to run a s4 pump with countless of ghettofcrigged crap?
Old 11-21-07, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by slpin
reply to rotaman...

you stated that with pressureized air and a bad checkvalve, oil could get pushed back thru the injector....

do you have any idea how the oil injectors work? it isnt vented to the atmosphere... it is vented in the same atmosphere the intercooler is in...
Most likely not as can be deduced from his ability to reverse engineer an OMP based on his findings in the link that I provided. Further, I don't think he has any hand's on experience with anything BUT an S4 N/A.
Old 11-21-07, 08:11 AM
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Originally Posted by tom.jelly
thats the adapter I've got...

t
Yep. I didn't recognize the name Richard Sohnn, so I Googled it and the first hit was the Rotary Aviation site. I just posted it so people could take a look at it.
Old 11-21-07, 08:58 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by tom.jelly
I have the richard sohn adapter on my car, installed it when I put in my reman. I currently have it plumbed to ap racings largest brake fluid reservior, and that is not big enough to run w/o a low level sender, so I just picked up a poly float switch from www.liquidlevel.com (single level switch part # sm-1100-pp under $30) which will be installed (thru a 1/2" hole, no threaded bung required) in the side of a canton can80-201 2 qt coolant expansion tank from hrpworld.com ($108) the old reservoir, about 10 oz or so, was good for MAYBE an hour at track engine load conditions.
tom
Tom,
I've been looking for months now for a suitable reservior to fit somewhere in my engine bay. I've read much about how the plastics made for coolant tanks (of all kinds including the OEM tanks -my first choice was the subzero assist tank from an FC) do NOT hold up to the 2 stroke oil (The FC tank reportedly lasts only a few months). They discolor and eventually get brittle and crack.

Personally I'm not keen on metal tanks - I want a visual on fluid level -perhaps through one of the vent holes in my hood. Most of the jetski tanks are HUGE (1 gallon) and are too big and such an odfd size to fit anywhere. I've looked at some 2 stroke motorcycle tanks. Also some smaller 2 stroke leaf blower oil tanks as well. I've yet to find something that isn't some wacky shape.

The desire is AT LEAST 1 quart because as you mentioned the smaller tanks don't last long at all.

Will a -4AN line be of sufficient size? Anyone using this size?

Does ANYONE have a picture of a DECENT tank installed in an FD engine bay that isn't rigged with zip ties and a coat hanger!? PLEASE!

Regards,
Crispy
FWIW I have on of the RA adpaters made by Richard on my rebuild.
Old 11-21-07, 09:28 AM
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Since you said PLEASE

Not exactely an FD engine bay but that is an FD waterpump housing. I mounted my 28oz tank where the airpump once lived. I'm going to re do it slightly and increase the storage, sump it, and add a level sensor.






Attached Thumbnails premixing reservoir without stock OMP-fdre.jpg   premixing reservoir without stock OMP-fdre2.jpg   premixing reservoir without stock OMP-piping6.jpg   premixing reservoir without stock OMP-piping7.jpg  

Last edited by TitaniumTT; 11-21-07 at 09:33 AM.
Old 11-21-07, 09:48 AM
  #37  
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Titanium
Thanks for the pics. Won't be of much use to me (I'm looking for plastic tank and I do run a stock airpump) but thanks for responding nonetheless.
Nice 13B-RE BTW.
Regards,
Crispy
Old 11-21-07, 10:30 AM
  #38  
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If you want to keep an eye on the level in a metal tank then put a 90 degree fitting on the top and bottom and put a clear plastic tube between them so that you can see the level in the tube.
Old 11-21-07, 10:47 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Black91n/a
If you want to keep an eye on the level in a metal tank then put a 90 degree fitting on the top and bottom and put a clear plastic tube between them so that you can see the level in the tube.
Considered it. Fittings = more potential leakage points. The plastic tank is simple - no hardware, fittings etc. needed. But duely noted. I have a GReddy tank on it's way to explore options with.

Regards,
Crispy
Old 11-21-07, 10:49 AM
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^^ I was thinking about that (you can see the 90* fitting already and the 1/8" NPT threaded into the black fitting @ the bottom) I decided against it though becuase I think it'll look cleaner without it and there is plenty to by opening the cap anyway. Just as a backup though I'm going to have a level alarm if it falls below half and it will trigger the preverbial check engine light
Old 11-21-07, 09:09 PM
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reply to rotaman...

you stated that with pressureized air and a bad checkvalve, oil could get pushed back thru the injector....
I was talking about when a rotor chamber is entering the compression cycle. Not what you may be boosting. Besides, I think the compression in the rotor chamber that is starting the compression stage may actually be more then what you are pushing for boost. So this may still happen which is probubly why mazda uses check valves on the oil injectors. BTW, im ONLY reffering to the injectors on the engine, not the LIM.

do you have any idea how the oil injectors work?
Ah. Ya.

it isnt vented to the atmosphere... it is vented in the same atmosphere the intercooler is in...
Which would be lower PSI then the compression in the engine. What about on a n/a engine?

under 8psi, how would anything gets pushed back, when theres 8psi on the other atmosphere against it? it would get sucked/pulled in like a NA engine would at WOT.
When did I ever say anything about boosting 8psi?

Also, did you know S5 emop have limp mode? kinda makes your write up useless... 7 bolts to replace a emop... or take the front of the motor off to run a s4 pump with countless of ghettofcrigged crap?
What write up? About swapping S4 control rod parts onto a s5 TB? This is mostly for people that put the S5 TB on a S4 engine so they can use the full range TPS.

You can also do this on a s/5 engine if you wanted to shove the e-omp to the side or try to fake out the ECU. I have an idea how but I don't have a S5 to play with.

If you look at this thread you will see my idea.

In my opinion as well others, the mechanical omp is more reliable then the e-omp.

I don't think he has any hand's on experience with anything BUT an S4 N/A.
considering I never give advice for turboed applications, this would be a good hint I know nothing about turboed motors.

Last edited by RotaMan99; 11-21-07 at 09:23 PM.
Old 11-21-07, 09:44 PM
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I'm getting a different tank:
http://fluids.flambeau.com/multipurp...1.5_quart.html
waiting on a quote, I'll let you know the price Mon. I'm expecting something in the $20 range, vs $108, heh
these also looked pretty good
http://www.out2win.com/catalog/fueltanks.html

tom
Old 11-21-07, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaMan99
considering I never give advice for turboed applications, this would be a good hint I know nothing about turboed motors.
Aside from that are you going to answer my questions or just completely ignore them & hope the fact that your testing holds as much water as a colander isn’t picked up by anyone else? They are serious questions to bolster the validity of you claims which I've always has HUGE doubts about
Old 11-22-07, 05:41 AM
  #44  
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I was ignoring you and will continue to do so.

I already told you it was a shitty test. If you must know, my drill spins at approx 3500 no load and yes the OMP was in working condition. Have you looked at the inside of an OMP? Its pretty damn simple to figure out if its going to work or not. I pulled the omp off my engine and it worked just fine.

Last edited by RotaMan99; 11-22-07 at 05:58 AM.
Old 11-22-07, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by RotaMan99
I was ignoring you and will continue to do so.
Yeah good job with that

If it is such a shitty test and you knew it at the time, why did you go and state your findings as fact? I was really amused by the whole thing because you were proven incomopetent again. Stop stating what you THINK as fact and you won't have to ignore anything mmmmmkay
Old 11-22-07, 09:36 AM
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Can we maybe cut out the petty arguing and keep this on topic? Thanks...
Old 11-22-07, 09:56 AM
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Originally Posted by Aaron Cake
Can we maybe cut out the petty arguing and keep this on topic? Thanks...
+1
agreed
Old 11-22-07, 09:56 AM
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With Pleasure
Old 11-23-07, 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by tom.jelly
I'm getting a different tank:
http://fluids.flambeau.com/multipurp...1.5_quart.html
waiting on a quote, I'll let you know the price Mon. I'm expecting something in the $20 range, vs $108, heh
these also looked pretty good
http://www.out2win.com/catalog/fueltanks.html

tom
Tom,
Both have great stuff. Good idea thinking of fuel tanks for carts that typically run 2 stroke. Keep me posted on what you come up with. I can work with you on fitment questions also if you need a second opinion. PM me if this thread gets too crapped up with an offtopic petty pissing contest.
Thanks,
Crispy
Old 11-24-07, 08:16 AM
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My car has no ac or PS, so my tank might fit where others won't. Its been so long since I had either in there I don't even remember how much space was available in that general area with those components present, but I will keep you all posted anyway.
t


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