ViperDude152

For those of you who argue about how much 2 stroke to add to the gas tank. If you would like I can send you a cover plate for the back of the omp which will have a 3/16 od SS tube TIG welded on. The tube will be bent over the omp and out toward the passenger side of the engine bay. This way you can use a reservoir to hold 2 stroke and have the omp inject 2 stroke oil. You just need to add JB Weld to the inside of the OMP where it usually gets the oil from the front cover.

This way it will only be injecting what it needs. I can send it to you for $25 plus shipping with a $5 core charge. Meaning when you send your original cover plate back, I will refund you $5. So you will pay $20 in the end and wont have to dump a bunch of 2 stroke in the gas tank which will save you a lot of money.

Up to you.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

I'd think everywhere would have Castrol. Even some gas stations. You've called around? Try Pep Boys, Wal Mart, ?any auto store?

I'm not going to go too much deeper into oil drain intervals, because 3,000 mile oil changes don't hurt as long as you use good oil and remember that there are 50 other basic maintenance items besides oil changes. But labs do take samples, analyze and prove this stuff, and other countries cought on. Good modern oils stay cleaner longer and produce less wear, even non-synthetics. The USA is stuck on 50 year old tradition.

Ice_Wolf

Well, I found the 15W-50 motor oil on Advanced's website, but still can't find the pre-mix oil. I'm not really sure who would carry it. My guess is I'll have to order it direct from Mobil 1.

Ice_Wolf

Another couple questions here. Do the make replaceable gaskets for our drain plugs or do they make a magnetic drain plug for our cars? Also, do you guys flush the old oil from your car with fresh oil, then drain that oil and put new oil in? That should be all for now.

Ice_Wolf

Found the Extended Performance 15W50 Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart and went with it. Also put on my K&N oil filter too. Also found out I have a shut-off valve type drain plug instead of a traditional bolt. It's the one that has a huge rubber gasket on it, and just screws in by hand and seals itself. Works really nicely.

So, my last question. How many of you guys use magnets on your oil pan or oil filter? I saw that sleeve that you can put over your oil filter, but I'm not willing to spend 40 bucks on the damn thing. I figure that regular mangets would do fine on the oil filter, just put like 4 of them on opposite sides of it.

Anything else to add?

deadRX7Conv

The oil change interval should be short enough not to worry about any old oil that is left in the engine, cooler, hoses, rotors, passages.....
Just change your oil and filter every 3k/3mo and don't worry about the ounces left behind.

There are magnetic drainplugs. If they are too long, they won't screw in all the way. Its easier just to slap a few high powered magnets around the oil filter housing. $10 of Neodymium magnets from an online store is a lot cheaper than those overpriced filtermags.

You can get the drain plug washer at the dealer or at any autoparts store. If you use a torque wrench on the drainplug, the washer will last for multiple uses. I've got multiple changes on my washer, never had a leak, and never struggle with drainplug removal.

Ice_Wolf

Yea, I didn't figure that the small amount left behind would matter, not to mention that as long as you change your oil every 3k, it shouldn't come out bad and should still be pretty clean.

I'm just going to stick with the drain plug that I've got in there now. It's a different type of plug. It's not a bolt like most plugs are. It's basically a valve with a big rubber gasket on it that screws in by hand. The gasket on it is perfect still and doesn't leak at all.

Where can I buy those magnets that you're talking about?

Ice_Wolf

Anyone know where I can buy stronger magnets for the oil filter? Also, is there any additives you guys use in your oil or any other modifications to the oil system I should consider doing besides removing the OMP?

Ice_Wolf

Any ideas?

RETed

Waste of time.
There should be no iron-to-iron contact that would lead to particles in the oil pan.
If you do, the motor is already no good.
On spun bearings, the bearing material itself is not magnetic - usually lead, indium, copper sandwich.


-Ted

Ice_Wolf

Well, I just wanted to make sure that nothing loose might be floating around in there, so I figured that it would be extra protection with the magnets. I didn't know if there was a place that sold stronger ones that I could use instead of buying that 40 dollar sleeve. I know a lot of people run Lucas oil in their engine oil, but is there any other additives that you guys use in your rotaries? As far as I know, all of the other mods to the oil system require tearing the engine apart, correct?

RETed

Metal particles floating around will definitely be trapped by the oil filter.
Use a good, name-brand oil filter, and you should be fine.
Those oil filter magnets are a gimmick to scam you of your hard earned money.

Don't use any oil additives.
This has been covered before.
Even tha Lucas crap is not recommended.

Change your oil and oil filter every 3,000 miles, and you will have no problems with your lubrication system.
Use a name-brand oil and oil filter, and don't worry about it.
You sound like you're on the verge of being paranoid.
If you want to spend all that extra money to satiate your paranoia, then you're more than welcome to do so (so will those manufacturers of which products you are buying).

Other typical mods to the oiling system...
Porting the oil pump cavity - requires removing the front oil cover and oil pump
Upgrading the oil pressure regulator - requires removing the oil pan
Installing a oil pan baffle - requires removing the oil pan
Yes, so almost anything else would require some major work to be done.


-Ted

deadRX7Conv

Use ebay or goodle. Search for neodymium or rare earth magnets. There are plenty of suppliers out there.

There is plenty of iron in an engine. You don't need iron to iron contact to have wear. I see iron wear points like the oil pump, its chain, the e-shaft, any gears....... Every contact point will wear. Accumulated wear leads to more wear. Grabbing any non-filtered iron can only help. Its a simple add on. Is it necessary? but is any mod necessary!

Anything magnetic that is picked up, frees up room in the filter media for other junk. And, anything that is picked up that is too small for filter media, would reduce future wear. Most oil filters are inefficient below 20 micron. And, there is still plenty of wear material in the 1-20 micron range in your oil.

Most people are surprised because their motor oil is actually cleaner after being run for a few minutes. Motor oil does not come with an ISO cleanliness code like higher end industrial lubes used in manufacturing or power production. Oil in a bottle is surprisingly dirty. A particle count and microscope magnification on new oil from the bottle is actually scary. Some auto manufacturers actually frown upon prefilling filters. But if cold oil bypasses anyway, it really makes you wonder where their heads are located.
Oil from a barrel(quick lube or garage) is very dirty. That oil should be filtered prior to being used in your engine. If you don't change your own oil, you're at the mercy of your quick lube. I hope that your jippylube uses and changes their barrel pump filters regularly.

Ice_Wolf

Alright, so no additives. Got ya.

About the magnets, I just think of them as an insurance policy. I put them on just to make sure that everything is being picked up.

How do you have the magnets set up on your car deadrx7conv?

RETed

Why not start pre-filtering our brand new engine oil before it goes into the engine?
This gotta be a trend that hasn't been done before!


-Ted

DrewD

You'd be amazed at the junk in oil that is a result of it flowing through metal pipes and mechanisms used to package it at the factory.

One particular brand had a reputation of throwing off oil analysis because it was contaminated with fairly high Iron levels at the factory. Prefiltering would not have done much for this.

I wouldn't prefilter out of the bottle but quick lube places that pump the oil out of 55 gallon drums usually have a inline filter system. Think about it, you can get bits of hose material, pump material or whatever else could wear in a system that is used to pull oil out of a large drum.

deadRX7Conv

My Rx7 has several around the filter. I don't care for top mounted magnets. That is where the bypass valve is located. Don't want it to hang open or closed.
I couldn't find a short enough magnetic drainplug for the RX7 oil pan. All the magnetic drainplugs from the local stores would screw in half way and crash. I'm not ambitious enough to make my own mag drainplug or cut the store one shorter.
My other cars have magnetic drainplugs and its amazing what they pick up.

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

www.allelectronics.com has neodynium magnets. Even has some curved ones, I think. But neodynium magnets are expensive anywhere. I'm not so sure you'd be saving money over the magnetic sleeve. Yes, iron is in your oil. Yes, you can see the effects of a magnetic sleeve if you use one. Question is does it make a difference to catch those iron particles?

I haven't bothered with magnets myself. If you really want to go crazy in a way that matters, then spend $200 on a bypass filtration system from amsoil. The nice thing about amsoil's system is that the hardware screws right into where your oil filter normally goes. The bypass filter filters 100% of particles above 2 microns. Anything below 2 microns won't hurt anything. It's freakin' insane. You still use an ordinary main filter in parallel with the bypass, because the bypass filter is waaay too restrictive. Most of the oil goes through the ordinary filter, but some of the oil bypasses the ordinary filter and goes through the super-fine filter, hence the name. Semi drivers use bypass filters to keep them going 500,000 miles or more and for a 100,000-mile / 1-year oil drain interval (filters changed at 25,000 miles, I think). If you use a bypass filtration system and keep replenishing oil additives then you can get away with never changing your oil, though it's not recommended.

Ice_Wolf

Alright, I'm gonna look into that sleeve then. I see the neodymium magnets are expensive, but you can get a lot of them on ebay for like 15 bucks shipped, whereas that sleeve costs 40 bucks shipped. And I'm going to pass on that bypass system, considering I don't want to spend 200 dollars on it.

iceblue

yup because evry race motor I have seen has magnets all over it.

If you want I can even sell you magnets to atomize your fuel!

ericgrau

iTrader: (1)

Rotary Performance has an FD drag racer that wins/won a lot of races. Those are the guys who sell the magnetic sleeve. But their comment is "this is one thing you have to see to believe", i.e., he sees all the metal when he changes his oil filter. It doesn't mean catching the iron will do you any good, but it does tell you the magnets do catch the iron.

The bypass filter kit, OTOH, is nice. 100% filtration is nothing to sneeze at.

Ice_Wolf

Where can you buy the bypass filter kit? Seems like it's worth the money.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

You're wasting your time and money with all this oil stuff. Follow the recommended oil guidelines in the manual and you will be fine.

mikaz

Wy not just install this?? Now no-one will ever have to worry about their oil ever again.
http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main...&products_id=8

--MAstermind--

lol motul M800....synthetic racing 2 stroke....1 oz per gallon....smoking the least than anything else...i also used Vp C2 2 stroke...syn 2 stroke....just use what dirtbike racebikes use...2 stroke bikes are hardcore and know abuse i figured that this stuff would do the job....

granted the gallon of M800 was 60+ bucks and the yamaha guy said im the first to ever buy it in a gallon...LOL....works fine to me....and at 10bucks per fillup estimated tahts fine i suppose....