Has anybody had a had a prodlem like this- When the engine is cold it has good power, but when warmed up the power decreases and after highway driving it is even less untill it cools down some. It never overheats or even gets halfway on the guage, it idles smooth but surges while driving on the highway. 88 gxl n/a

 

Mrb455,

Welcome to the forum. Here you'll learn alot of useful information to keep your car running tip top.

First off, do not run the car past 3-4k rpms until the engine coolant and oil temps have reached normal operating temps. This usually takes about 5 min of normal shifting/driving.

Second, perform a normal tune up, spark plugs, air filter, fuel filter, check the timing and adjust the TPS. After all that is completed and you've stopped ragging on your Rotary when cold and it's still slow when hot, you'll need to get off the wallet and perform a compression check. It's best to use the Mazda ($1300) compression check box, however you can use a normal compression gauge, it's just a PITA.

Im sure others will have some input, i'm hungry

Regards,
-Markus

 

thats normal for every car. after a highway trip, or stop and go driving your intake and everything else is going to heat soak causing a loss of power.

 

you might want to put an intercooler in it to keep the temp down.

 

All rotaries have more power when cold. The compression numbers go up. Thats common to most any internal combustion motor. This is why you test your compression with the engine warm.

 

i seriously hope youre joking

 

I have already done a tune up as was mentioned ( this is not a turbo ) if its normal then thats ok, but I still have the surging at 3-5k. Someone said it might be the 5th and 6th ports, maybe the previous owner wired them open. The only problem is --- I dont know where they are.

 

Do you have the FSM yet?

Just noticed your in Prescott.. Cool, I am in Tucson.

 

No, I got the car Saturday. My first rotory, I love it already. I spent 28 years working on piston engines and thought it was time for a change I should have done it years ago.

 

Sounds like me! I was a die hard classic car fan until I drove an RX-7. The rest is history..

I have the FSM on my computer at home, I can send it to you later. As far as the 6PI actuators, they are on the passenger side of the motor, look like 2 round cans with arms coming out the top.

Word of advice, dont take your car to anyone for work. If you absolutely have to, bring it to me. I can garantee it will get done right.

 

Thanks, it helps to know someone who knows more about these than I do. Its a whole new learning curve.

 

 

I've seen that before--- only it was dry ice

 

thats my ic this past weekend at battle of the imports.

 

quote:
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Originally posted by rx7NOS
you might want to put an intercooler in it to keep the temp down.
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pWNED
!

 

Do you by chance have a cone filter on the car?

 

No. I dont have a cone filter its bone stock

 

No worries man. Hit us up for whatever you need.

 

I was wondering, is there any real gains from a cone filter? and I hear sometimes the car will start stalling.

 

I noticed more power after I installed my K&N cone, and the car was more responsive. The stalling you speak of is because of "wet" filters like the K&N, it's not a big deal really. The oil from the filter gets into the AFM connector, and causes it to stall or hesitate, but this is only after it is freshly oiled. All you have to do is diconnect the AFM connector and spray it with an electronics cleaner a couple of times then it will be fine untill you oil it again

 

I think I'll see about getting one, thanks

 

I'd say yes a cone filer helps as long as its relocated AWAY from the engine bay. Pref cutting into that little flat spot (s4) that is just a strech away from the stock location. Get some intercooler piping (summit racing) and you'll have cool air from one of the vents that goes to the brakes. (it should end up right in front of the passanger side tire when done). Grrr I wish I had a camera so I could take that pic of where it sits.

 

For you hesitation.Check and adjust your tps.And for no power after warming up that is normal because of heatsoak and also the cas retarding the ignition.You can do the resistor mod at the afm and also get a safc to lean out the 7 some for some more horsepower.Just look for threads on the search for these mods.Oh by the way Welcome

 

Thank you, you guys have been a lot of help.

 

Thats one way, but noticeable power loss would be indicative of a different problem.

The CAS retards ignition when warm or cold. And with an SAFC, you dont need the resistor.