BLKTOPTRVL

Driving the vert about four days ago when it started spitting Power Steering Pump bearing ***** out of the nose of the pump.

Seems nobody sells PS Pumps anymore so I am doing a reman.

I ordered a rebuild kit online, but it comes without bearings.

Since the pump was shooting bearings, the bearing cover is gone so I can no longer see the bearing part number.

Does anyone know the part number/specs for the PS Pump bearing?

Also, although I have stripped the accessories off the PS pump, I have not yet cracked it open So I cannot yet see what is inside. I would think there is another bearing inside there. Does anyone know it's part number and spec?

professionalpyroman

Did a quick look on the parts fiche, looks like that part of the pump comes as a rebuild kit, similar to the "sealed" idler pulley, or throttle springs. Rare as a unicorn fart.

As far as determining bearing size and type, try to see if you can keep the races intact so you can measure them with a mic. Also check to see if you need a seal on the back side of the bearing, or if the bearing is lubricated by the pump. It probably isn't but if you can find a chunk of a seal, that would give you a better indication. Probably going to be a NACHI bearing of some kind.

Make sure to clean the races and shaft before you put the new one back in.

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

I'm pretty sure the identifying number will be on the outer race, not on the cover.

BLKTOPTRVL

Rock Auto has an R&R service for the pump through Cardone, but you have to ship it to them to get an estimate.

Seeing as, it will cost at least $30 just to get the part to them and back and since there is not even an estimate of how much it will cost (at least as much as buying a reman of course, I decided to continue with taking the pump apart.

Does anyone here have any experience with doing an R&R on these pumps?

For now, I will continue to dismantle it in hops that someone will have had experience - either way, I need to go ahead and get the bad bearing out.

BLKTOPTRVL

Well, I hope the number is on both sides of the race, because the exposed race is gone!

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

Lol! OK, I suppose I didn't quite understand the extent of the damage, whoops. I bet they use the same one front and back (cost effective), you'll have to take apart to see. They might not of but usually manufactures need to have a reason to increase cost. I'm also guessing there is two bearings because, it's kind of a standard thing. Could be wrong there also.

BLKTOPTRVL

Actually on the inside, there is a shaft recess or "pit" with no bearing, but a bushing. (Edit 3: The shaft fits into the bushing and is a little loose, but still tight enough that I get a suction sound when I pull it back out. so I think that combined with a new bearing it should be OK) I cannot yet tell if it needs to come out (hope not). If I can get this further apart I should be able to tell if the end of the shaft fits snugly or not.

The pump is essentially a little rotary motor. The "leaves" you see in the pan fit into those slots of the central rotor and as the pump rotates, the leaves slide in and out tracing the shape of the rotor housing and pushing the oil around. (I may have already destroyed the pump by taking the leaves out and not knowing their orientation to go back - but they all fit back in easily.)

I have never seen a pump like this and have no idea how to proceed in taking it further apart without destroying or damaging it. I am searching the web for a clue.

If I had to guess, I would say that yanking on the shaft should pull the whole assembly apart, but so far something seems to be locking it in place.

Edit: I found NO vids on R&Ring this Mazda Pump, BUT, I did find this Ford vid...


And it looks the same as mine internally. And looking at the body, this seems to be exactly the same pump (core) as the 2001 Ford Escape. https://www.carid.com/cardone/power-...813&url=798553

Edit 2:

OK so I got brave and took the pump further apart. I turned it over to try to pry out the pump stator(?) and it just fell out. Leaving the shaft and bearing in place. But one slight tap from the hammer got the shaft out too.

Internally, these pumps are different (progress between 1988 and 2001?) but they are at least cousins. I would be willing to bet that if you can plumb them up, they would probably bolt right in.

The Aussie in the vid was very helpful in helping me see how to disassemble the actual pump, but I tend to think he is wrong about the placement of the vanes (leaves). He was saying that he placed the rounded edge of the vanes facing out from the shaft, but I would think that in 200K miles, the vanes would have been scraped flat by the wall (housing) of the pump. Any opinions?

So, back to the bearing... it is being held to the shaft by the pulley key which keeps it from moving forward.

Monday, I will take the shaft and the remnants of the bearing to the local bearing supplier to see if he can find a replacement for me. Or maybe I will stop by Northern Tools to get one of their digital calipers, I don't think mine with a millimeter scale (manually read) will be accurate enough...

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

Just convert using 25.4 to change mm's to inch, divide mm by 25.4 to get inch, multiply inch by 25.4 to get mm.

I'm sure it will be all metric.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I must be getting old,as I would not waste the "rest of my life"..heh,heh,rebuilding a damn PS pump!...I'd just post a WTB for a used one,Guys post up parts all the time.
I probably got a pump in my Shed.
uh,oh....heart Murmur....!!!..time to log out!

professionalpyroman

Yup, its a vane pump. Its a similar mechanism to an air impact (look up AVE videos on how these work). The rounded part of each vane goes to the inside. so that fluid can pressurize in between the vane and the shaft, pushing it out against the housing. This is what makes the vanes seal, otherwise the whole thing wouldn't ever build pressure.

As far as the bearing being stuck on the shaft, it had to go on one way or another. If the key comes out, that's the end it comes off of. If not, it comes off the other end. That bearing should be friction fit on the shaft anyway. Should be good and snug. If it stays stuck, use a torch and warm up the bearing race and try tapping it off with a plastic hammer or brass drift.

dukes770

iTrader: (1)

The bearing on my pump was NTN 6602LB. It was for a 1987 car.

BLKTOPTRVL

Thanks for confirming the orientation of the vanes...

I wish I had read this before I decided to "get the bearing off"...

I had to lock the shaft into a vase (wrapped by cloth to protect as much as possible), and then use a hammer and screwdriver to get the half moon key canted. A couple of light taps, and then I was able to pull it out using a pair of surgical forceps.

And you are spot on about how tight the bearing was to the shaft. It was obviously pressed on and then locked behind the key, with a c-clip on the front to really lock it in.

I used a socket over the shaft to drift (hammer) it off the shaft. I can see that I left some minor(?) striations on the shaft, but I am thinking I can polish the shaft?

When I go to put a new bearing on I will heat the bearing in the oven first and freeze the shaft. A long time ago, I remember I was a able to just drop a bearing race into a brake rotor disc without any tools - it just dropped right in and seated itself, I am hoping the same will work for this so that I do not have to hammer the new bearing onto the shaft.

What do you think?

BLKTOPTRVL

As for the bearing, if there were any markings on it, they are long gone, so I have absolutely no idea what I am looking for.

All I know is is't measurements...

11mm Thick
35mm OD
15mm ID
14 ***** (looks like).

BLKTOPTRVL

While I understand what you are saying...

My Vert now has a rebuilt engine and everything else on it seems to be working smoothly - except the oil pressure sender - I don't know why every Mazda I have ever had has problems with these. Condition wise, it looks new to most people who don't know what it is. They are shocked when I tell them it is 30 years old. I do want to replace the wheel bearing next - it sat on them for too long.

Finding out that the PS pump is not available anywhere (rebuilt) was a little bit of a shock.

Yes, I could buy a used one from someone, but what condition will it be in? Maybe just another couple thousand miles before that replacement goes bad?

If I am going to keep my car - as I plan to, with more and more parts being almost impossible to find, I think it will behoove me to learn to disassemble and rebuild these parts myself. I think it is even better to learn this while there is still the possibility that a replacement can still be found used in case I really screw up something.

(I did find someone on E-Bay who says he has a reman for sale. But even though he has a fairly good rep, I am holding my breath hoping he will not come back and say he doesn't have the pumps he said he did. Some of his negative rep says he does have a habit of claiming a part and then not actually having it.)

A pump like this with a $20 seal kit and possibly a $30 bearing seems a good candidate to me to DYI. Besides, I am retired, I have the time.

BLKTOPTRVL

Tremendous thanks.

Mine is an 88, but I am hoping these are the same bearings, I will look them up.

Again, I appreciate the input.

Based on your input and the measurements I took, I am guessing I can use this bearing...

https://www.grainger.com/product/NTN...-Bearing-6L024

Does anyone know if there is a "hardiness" grade I need to look out for?

Edit:

I found several candidate bearings on Grainer Site.

https://www.grainger.com/product/com...C1L015%2C1ZGH2

One is rated at 17,000 rpm, another is rated at 28,000 rpm. I will go with the higher speed bearing.

Edit:

At first glance it seems the higher speed bearing would be the logical choice... But since this new bearing will only have to rotate at about 500 rpm, I wonder if I am sacrificing anything when choosing the higher speed bearing. It is also rated for a higher power, so I am thinking it is still the right one to get.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I'm retired too so therefore I do things quickly and "efficiently" as I am not exactly sure if I'll have time to actually enjoy it..

IF I have a Pump,would you take it,for say 5 Bucks and the price of shipping?..I am downsizing since I am now living Solo..so anything I do not need is either getting tossed or sold,cheaply!

LMK,as I am gonna go Full blown spastic on my shed..!

BLKTOPTRVL

Sure, why not. As I said, I don't know yet if I am going to receive the rebuilt. And that will let me continue with this one with less fear of damaging it.

BLKTOPTRVL

Here is a company selling the PS Pump bearing for about $1.50.

https://www.primebearing.com/6202-2R...-15X35X11.html

They are also selling the larger idler.

6203-2RS, 6203 2RS sealed radial ball bearings 17x40x12

Hot_Dog

I went through this same exercise earlier this year. The PS original PS pump on my 90 GXL just locked-up on morning. Just like you, I wasn't able to find a rebuilt pump anywhere. I eventually bought a used pump from a bone yard in SoCal.

BTW, Summit sells PS pumps for the RX7 and they do have one in stock. Not sure if it's an engine speed sensing pump or vehicle speed sensing pump. The other pumps are on back order until beginning Aug. Hope this helps.

BLKTOPTRVL

Thanks for the feedback... I am waiting to hear details on one reman from ebay, one used from this site, and the parts for my rebuild. If none of these things work out, I will check Summit.

My primary hope is that I will get mine back together successfully and to have learned a new skill!

professionalpyroman

As far as your work in progress pump goes, when you inspect the shaft, you want to make sure it is completely smooth. Any burrs that you can catch with your fingernail are going to give you fits. I would use a fine sharpening stone and some light oil, like Remoil or 3-in-1 to knock off the burrs that you made, then handle it gently. You will just be working on the burrs. Don't want to take any material out of the shaft diameter. As far as differential heating is concerned, wrap the shaft in a dry towel and place it in the deep freeze. You may not need to heat the bearing, if its a hot summer day, and you have a sub-zero shaft temp, should slide or tap right on. Just make sure you have all the burrs cleaned up. I'd use a brass drift on the inner race to install the bearing unless you have a better socket. Problem I have had using sockets is that I often damage the seal and make the bearing have a snag in a normally smooth motion. If you use one for installation, make sure it seats good against the inner race without galling the shaft.

f you have a lathe, you can turn and bore your own installation socket that would only contact the inner race. That works swell. Not everybody has a lathe, but it is a suggestion.

Do that and it should slide right on. On the same token, once you're done, you can freeze the shaft and bearing for installation in the housing.

Bearing races should all be made of about the same material. The difference in ball bearing speeds ratings is usually how they are lubricated kept cool.

Good luck, let us know how it goes

BLKTOPTRVL

Thanks for the tips.

BLKTOPTRVL

So far, I am still waiting for the seal kit from CardID. I am going to have to call them to cancel and order from someone else.

In the mean time, an Ebay seller said they had 8 re-manufactured units on hand so I ordered one from BUYAUTOPARTS.COM.

What they sent me doesn't fit. It seems to be the same pump, - but with a different shaft - most likely this is the unit for the Ford I mentioned above.

So far I have been waiting 20 minutes on the phone for someone to take my call... One person answered, but as soon as I said they sold me the wrong part, he put me back into the phone queue (this is probably a "we never plan to answer queue").

Anyway, the pump is actually so close that I will try to figure out if I can use it. The only difference see so far is that this "wrong" pump has a geared central shaft - while mine is smooth.

Does anyone here have a pump that also has a splined shaft? (The splined is where the pulley attaches).

professionalpyroman

That stinks. Do you have any pictures?

BLKTOPTRVL

OK, BUYAUTOPARTS lists a Mazda RX7 PS Pump as A1-Cardone Part number 21-5814. This is WRONG. That part is for a 90-95 Mazda MPV.

It has a splined shaft.

I called Cardone and the proper part number is 21-5846. This is not available anywhere in the country as far as I can tell.

The attached pic shows the wrong part (splined shaft) and the Mazda RX7 Pulley (Keyed.)

I searched for and found the MPV pulley - it is serpentine and therefore of no use.