I just noticed an interesting power draw in my DD. It's an 89 GTU. I just finished replacing the transmission then this problem started. if i'm cruising on the freeway and I tap the brakes, the radio shuts off and the lights dim. I also noticied that the voltmeter would get all jumpy.

I'm almost thinking of ripping out the alt and having it tested.

Any ideas?

 

all of your grounds in the area you worked in present???

 

oh yeah. I made sure of it...

 

well, just checked on it and the battery is dead. the alternator is probably the culprit.

 

Battery is totally dead. I used two set of jumper cables and two different cars and the **** won't start.

 

It sounds like your electrical system isn't able to put out enough juice anymore.

Well, I just had to pull my alt so...
Disconnect the battery terminals.
Get an ohmmeter and measure the resistance across the terminals. You can also use a test light or measure the current. If you get anything, start pulling fuses until the short disappears. Check the name of the fuse that got rid of the drain, that's where your short is. The BTN fuse is connected to the fuses inside the car. So if that fixes the short, put it back in and check the internal fuses.
Check the belt tension on your alternator (see below). If it's too loose then your alternator won't put out enough juice, which might be your problem.
Next remove your battery (w/ wrench) and alternator (w/ wrench, sometimes a mallet too). Take them into an auto store and have them test both (free). They will also recharge your battery for you, if it's still good. Installing the alternator requires a wrench, sometimes a hammer (for the spacer, if it's real tight), and a prybar/crowbar to tighten the belt. Long part of belt should deflect 1/2" (give or take) when you press the center with your finger. Otherwise the belt is too tight or too lose.

I've had two remanufactured alternators go on me in a row. So I brought it into a mechanic. He said it's b/c remans suck, I just got unlucky with them twice in a row, and to go new. Next alt will be new. Only $200, compared to $90-$120 plus $40 core charge for a reman. I'm waiting until monday on that. So we'll see if that works. The mechanic said RX-7's have really simple charging systems: battery, alt and 3 wires. So it's either the alt or a short circuit that keeps appearing and disappearing. Mechanic said he didn't think it was a temporary short though, just seemed like a small possibility to me.

 

Yea...That's pretty much what I was going to do tomorrow. My multimeter and all of my tools were in my TII which was sitting at a friends house 30 miles away and I just didn't want to deal with the GTU today, lol.

In the mornin, i'll test everything and hope that it's just the alt. I don't want to be chasing electrical gremlins no matter how simple the charging system is.

 

use a multimeter and set it to read voltage. Get the car running and check put the positive probe onto the +post on the alt, then ground the black probe to the car. The voltage reading should be between 14 and 15 volts. If not then your alt is dead.


Or bring it to kragen or similar place and have them check it out

 

i have kinda the same problem with my 7 but not that drastic just dims when i have lights on and i hit the brakes or i turn on the hearter it drops about 1 or 1/2 vol. i tend to notice it more when i hit the rear defroster????

 

battery and alternator tested good. Still no power to anything. Could it be the starter ground?

 

Did you try an ammeter in line with the pos line while the car is off to see if there is a static draw?

 

nope, explain the process to me? I have a multimeter with me.

 

An AMMETER is used to measure current. Most El Cheapo models of multimeters can only handle about a few Amps max, amps being the draw on the car.

What you do:

Disconnect the positive cable, then connect one lead to the battery terminal (positive), and the other lead to the cable (positive). Make sure the car is off and in the configuration you leave it at night (doors closed, any alarms you may have set, etc..)

Then take the reading.. You should be in the milliamps range MAX. If you are reading anything in the single digits (one amp or more), you have a DEFINATE power drain.

Then you start pulling fuses till the power drain disappears...

 

Oh,

and you will need a good battery for this test.

 

Word. Thanks J! I'll get to it.

 

Yeah, have fun! Electrical gremlins are the worst problem to have..

 

gotta go get an ammeter I guess...my multi took a ****..

 

FIXED!!!

Engine ground didn't get connected at the transmission when i installed the new tranny. oops...

 

ahh i thought they were all good???

hahah jk jk

glad to hear you fixed it

 

that is good i would be shi^ ing my self if i had your problem (knock on wood). that is why i hate electric work

 

lol

**** happens

 

Glad you got it fixed. That was definitely an oops.

 

And your car was still starting?