I started with this and decided A) There was too much to look at (I feel sorry for the guy who has 5 gauges across his PASENGERS FACE. Honestly, do you really look @ that stuff?) & B) If I want datalogs of everything and be able to see just about everything I had to go with the latter - Anyway - I'll be going from this

to this

 

Give me all your old gauges...........

 

Sold em all

 

ho wmuch did the new set up cost??

 

Used to be this...




NOW this...




I've actually made a few changes, but overall, you get the idea.

 

Aim sells them here for $1099 for the NON-logging version. I'll have logging through my Motec. Last I checked SMP had a somewhat decent package deal in the Halteck & Aim setup

 

I've been wondering, how difficult is it to open up the stock meters and change gauges/appearances?

 

mine

 

What motec do you have? I've got the M2R. Just really getting into all the goodies, but I dig it.

I agree, there gets to a point where it's all too much. I like to be able to check water temp, engine speed, and afr at a moments notice, but all others can go to the data log. That's why I got rid of oil pres and oil temp. Also got rid of the AEM EUGO. Was a nice gauge but wouldn't communicate with my Motec. Got the LS-1 with a digital volt-reader (sending out Lambda)

I know a guy locally with that Motec gauge, all I can say is DAMN!

 

how do you make that center gauge holder?

 

1fastT2 sold these awhile back. His (at the time) had the guages displayed on the bottom of the stereo deck. I modified them to be displayed on top.

 

Hey TitaniumTT what did you use the double pod and a single pillar pod to make the triple?? Looks good if so, I plan on doing this also.

 

^ Thanks. Both pods came from Rotary Performance. I painted them once on the pillar though with a couple really wet coats of clear so they were nice and "soft"

I went with the Motec M820 Haven't even started into the goodies so you're WAY ahead of me Every thing is input and logged from oil pressure to sump oil and 2-stroke oil levels. I plan on programing it to set off the AIM alarms if oil level gets low (sump or 2-stroke) , temp to high, low oil pressure, oil temp overheat, & the preverbial Check Engine (6 warning lights on the side) Instead of having lap times on the bottom those can be programmed as other outputs. I plan on having Water Temp, oil pressure, oil temp and Lambda. Then I can toggle between not so important things - volt and fuel level. I'll have an anolog boost gauge off to the side. This way I don't have to look at anything BUT the shift lights UNLESS a warning light goes off No need to look to the passenger side A-pillar to wonder if my engine is overheating.


I com

 

damn!! you spent the $$!!!
I've seen the m800 series in action. the software is much nicer than my DOS version. I wish I would've jumped for the 800 series, but i dont ever want to do a 3 rotor so the M2R made the most sense for me. I have all those alarms set already, but they dont make any noise unless the laptop is plugged in. They will make corrections though.

I can see many differences just in the wire harness alone. Mine has one large connection, opposed to the two on the m800...



for some reason my interior gauge image seems to have disappeared so I'll post it again.

 

Had to spend the $$$$ - the M820 was the only one that had all the outputs that I needed - (4 - OMP, 5 - turbo's, 4 - Ign, 4 fuel, fan, fuel, check engine and 1 spare ) I haven't played around with the new V3 software that much. I have the base fuel/ignition map but that's the "easy" part though. Trick will be the turbo's.

If the M2R is CAN supported it can communicate directly with the AIM dash. You can set the AIM dash alarms based on any of the inputs the motec has. As a bonus - whatever internal alarms the M2R has can be displayed as well. I like the simplistic approach to the dash. I mean honestly when I'm pounding hard into corners during an auto-x I'm NOT looking at gauges - personally I think a well placed alarm light is worth more than a 60MM temp gauge without a warning. The thing could be past "rebuild motor temp" and unless you look at the gauge and processed what it meant - you wouldn't know it. To combat this in my old setup I oriented the gauges so that anything past vertical was bad. This way I didn't have to process what the gauge said, just realize where the needle was - good = to the left or strait up - problem = right.

 

Boost on column, oil press. and water temp. on pillar - very easy to monitor vitals quickly without looking off the road. Apexi turbo timer/AFR right above radio.

 

You guys will like JStewarts.

 

well i was asked to post these so here ya go:
Its still messy because i just got done putting the dash back in.


still need to finish the warning cluster pod

Now that I have the Haltech installed i plan on ditching the gauges and putting a double din screen in and monitoring the engine that way.

Heres one thats not in my car anymore.

 

 

M2R has reads CAN. I've looked at getting that dash, but really isnt worth it for me at this point... eventually, but not now.

I now the M4 series is limited with inputs, but once I set up an ignition box, i'll have two extra inputs that i can use for fuel pump and what ever else I want. No need for fan, I run belt driven fan. And no OMP for me... So it'll probably end up controlling aux inj.

Are you saying you have 5 turbo inputs? what for?

 

Nope - 5 turbo outputs, only 3 turbo inputs.
Outputs-
1) Wastegate
2) Prespool Valve
3) Charge Relief Valve
4) Charge Control Valve
5) Turbo COntol Valve
Inputs -
1) MAP
2) Secondary turbo boost
3) Exhaust mani pressure

Here are the solenoids....





The goal for this little PJ was 450RWHP from a set of BNR Stage 3 re-cartridged REW sequential twin turbos hung off the side of a very lightly ported 13B-RE with a functioning electric OMP that I could re-map The Motec M800 was the only ecu that I could find that would allow me to do everything that I wanted. I thought about the Power FC, but I felt that I couldn't have enough control over the turbos and I'd be doubling on a bunch of sensors for displays and it didn't have a bunch of other features that I wanted. So I whored like no-ones business and squirreled away some decent cash. I'm sure you know what these little boxes go for.

 

i do know... i dig the project. Very fun, but all I gotta say about all those turbo outputs is... damn!! That's too much for me..

But what ever it takes to get quick spool and a nice top-end right...
I am pretty sure you'd be un-happy with a PFC, especially now that you've seen the motec first hand.

I stuck with the FC 13bt motor. I also just barely ported the intake ports... but the exhuast is another story.

 

Thanks

That's what I'm saying! I also have a trim switch on the Motec so I'll be able to turn the boost down, also going to run a boost vs gear vs tps so I don't melt the tires off. It should be really driveably when all is said and done. Granted there is a thread right now in the 3rd Gen section - dyno proven 441 RWHP, but just becuase it's there, doesn't mean it needs to be used. With the boost vs gear you can keep it lower in the low gears and let it wind out when you don't have the mechanical advantage as much. I'm excited. & yes I love the idea of sequential turbo's. I mean 12 PSI ~ 2500

Right now the motor is stock port RE and stock FD/FC turbo exhaust sleeves. I bought a GEM of an RE (touch wood) Great compression and already rebuilt. When it does pop there isn't much I can do with the exhaust ports but I plan on porting and cleaning the exhaust mani as much as possible before the first fire. Portmatching all the intake mani's etc et. We'll see, I want the record for sequential RWHP & I think I can hit the 450 mark. If not..... I'll run a little AI because according to Bryan you CAN run those turbo's to 21+PSI. Above 18PSI though there isn't much to be gained on pump.

 

Here's what I'll be running in the spring time. The only other gauge is a glowshift fuel pressure gauge which is mounted in the glovebox.

My haltech cable comes out of the glovebox so it needs to be open for tuning and thats when the pump will get "tested" so to speak and fuel pressure will need to be watched....I didn't feel it was necessary that I either buy a triple a-pillar pod, or stuff it somewhere else obstructive.

The oil pressure/temp gauges by the ignition are the new addition to my repitoire, and believe it or not they're quite visible and don't interfere with your legs (and I'm 6' 2") My old school RB manual in cabin boost controller used to reside there, but it was changed out in favour the AEM EBC, so I need to put something back there I've cocked the pressure/temp gauges 90* so the "uh oh" zones are at the top and most easily spotted.

On the left we have dual EGT in the door pod, AEM UEGO wideband, and an AEM Tru-boost controller/gauge. Oh, and the green LED is wired to the meth/water injection pump and indicates the pump running. Not shown in that pic is the red LED mounted by the wideband which indicates a low meth/water level.

Forgive the blurry pic and no, thats not a snake on the windshield

 

^^^^ Haha... I have the same fake bride steering wheel, but I put a mazda horn button on it. Not a bad wheel for a knock off.