If they so happen to be, how do I unstick them. I have used MMO, but maybe they have not touched or coated that well. So is this possible? I did not search because I did not want to.

 

i heard they can get stuck outside of carbon buildup flakes off and gets lodged between them and the rotor, but that should only be when your engine's moving, and if that happens, the seal should snap off

if they're stuck inside and not coming out and you're losing compression, then i have no idea

 

Oh yeah, it has been sitting for a little over a year, maybe a year and a half, and during this time, fluids have been changed So it wouldn't get all gunked up inside, but I am hoping that the apex seals are stuck, I will check with a mirror and flashlight in the morning.

 

well fortunately the apex seals are steel and the housings are aluminum, so the seals can rust on the surface but they cant really "stick" unless you have like 3mm of carbon on the housings and seals.

just put a breaker bar on the front nut and try to turn it over, i could turn my engine over by hand rather easily so i think a stuck one shouldnt be too much harder

Justin

 

if it won't turn at all, try to "run it backwards" by putting it in 5th gear and pushing the car backwards a little bit. That'll hopefully dislodge anything that might be stuck if it's locked.

 

No, the rotors spin freely, I just thought that the seals were stuck in the rotors, not against the housings.

 

If you let the car sit for a long time, or over a matter of years/miles the seals can get stuck down in the rotor. The buildup of carbon/crud makes them do this. This is why the ATF treatment often works. The detergents in the ATF will work out and clean out the carbon and allow the apex seals to "spring" back out again.
hanman

 

 

Like I said, I have used MMO. Are you saying that ATF would be a better choice? Should I squirt the ATF directly on the seals itself, because I was thinking that if they are stuck, that they wouldn't even be able to touch the housing, therefore not being able to get coated with the MMO. So I should try and give the ATF a try instead huh? I just thought that after the MMO, and me cranking the engine over, that they would spring out, is this not the case or what? This is the only thing I need to do to bring this rotary machine back to life and kicking *** on the roads again. Thanks everyone for answering, and I hope more will respond.

 

it could be flooded....

Justin

 

Did you tested compresion?
If the reading is O. I believe the best thing you could try, without opening the engine is ATF, like hannman said. BUt you need to put a lot in and let it work for 24 hrs at least. And if maybe they will get loose.

But if the problem is that they apex seals bonded to the rotor like Rx7impreza said you will need to open the engine to solve the problem.

 

I have unflooded it and I tested the compression and the rear one read 0. The motor has 40,000 on it andlike I said, I used MMO. I thought ATF and MMO were the same, but apparently not. I will see what I can do today. So would cranking the engine over free up these seals, or would actually starting it help. At what RPM does the engine spin when cranking it over? Thanks for the response.

 

I have all the plugs in except the rear leading plug, and I tuned the motor over by hand and heard an obvious and loud whoosh sound, does that mean that I have compression on the back rotor. I also looked to see if I had apex seals and it looked like I did. Are they a bright silver color? Can I also see if I am getting spark by using a voltmeter? Thanks for any replies.