Hello all.

I was driving around all normal, and I heard a pop. I lost power for a second and things felt weird but quickly went away. I came to a stop at the next light and my temp gauge started to rise. I turned off the car at the light and waited for the light to change. I turned the car back on and drove it out of the intersection to the side of the road. I blew my water pump (somehow) and water was coming out the bottom where there is a stock hole. I'm guessing to let the water out once the pump is blown. I topped off the water again and drove it a few blocks till I was home. We changed the water pump. (I had a spare) but now my car has a very weird idle. It sounds like it is missing. Wamp wamp wamp wamp wamp wamp I have the normal power, and everything feels find other then my idle is a little lower and it misses at idle. Any ideas? It used to purrrrr before the issue.

My guess is I injured the coolant seal and I have a little bit of fluid or compression going in or out of the engine? I will be taking the spark plugs out when I get to college. (to see if they are wet)


Thanks
~Tweak


BTW Im about to drive 3 hours to college... :\ I hope it lives.

 

after the 7 cools down alittle bit, remove a radiator cap and start her up. if she starts burping then it has a weakened/blown a coolant seal

 

Is there any way .... blowing an apex seal could also cause .... a water pump to blow at the same time? I havnt compression tested it yet, but for some reason I'm guessing .. Im going to post 60 60 20 on a rotor...

 

I've kinda had similar issues. I didn't hear anything pop, but I've had to replace 2 water pumps in a little over a year. My idle also does the same damn thing. Every now + then she'll give a little burp. I know a rebuild is soon in order too...

 

60 60 20 would be a bad side seal not apex seal.

How high did the temp gauge get to?

 

I'm not sure it is 60 60 20 yet. I havnt compression tested it yet. It got to about 3/4 but was still climbing VERY fast. I hope that turning the car off might have saved it. I will compression test later in the day.

 

Well turns out I was right about my compression. It was 70 70 30 on the front rotor, perfect on the rear rotor. Since only one is low compression that means that a side seal is blown? Is that why it feels normal at higher rpm?

Any help would be awesome. Thanks.

PS : currently searching for a rebuild kit.

 

I would suggest pineapple racing

 

Well I know for sure I wont send my motor out to be rebuilt, and especially by pineapple racing. I heard they are like 3 months behind on rebuilds.... I will be don't the rebuild myself, but I might get a rebuild kit from them. I think I am going to try the water treatment procedure. Maybe I just have a stuck side seal.... might knock it loose or something... What vac line would you recommend so that both rotors get water? I guess I really only need to do the front though...

 

I was thinking..... Is a corner seal and a side seal the same thing? How does one of those break? Or would it just be stuck, like the spring just gave up on pushing it out? I mean if it .... "broke" where would it go? It shouldn't be able to .... get out of the rotor should it?

 

it's probably stuck or cracked maybe or worn too much or the spring has given out.

There are 2 vacuum lines on the middle intake, right near where the cold start valve bolts on, one goes to the front primarie intake port other goes to the rear, rev if up and give it some seafoam through each of those ports.

You can also put some in the spark plug holes, pull out the egi fuses, crank it over a few times with the seafoam and let it sit over night.

If you've ever taken apart an engine with alot of carbon, you can see how bad it can get, too muh oil/too rich mixtures are bad.

My old 87 luxury did the same as your car, rose up to about 3/4 rising fast and then i shut it off, coolant hose popped, it had good coolant seals when i took it apart, apex seal blew eventually though.

Best way to be sure of a bad coolant seal is to get a cooling system pressure tester.

Either way, that engine is about ready to give out, and you should be saving for a rebuild.

I would buy a type c kit from atkins, and find someone locally who can build engines and pay them. Or you could learn yourself.

Maybe I could do it for you, i'm going to be moving to kennewick between late december/january. I just couldn't press any bearings.

 

Well I just did the water treatment procedure and I don't think it fixed my stuck/weak side seal. But wow it made my motor feel (above idle) much much much much smoother! I recommend everyone do the water treatment to any 100k mile engine. I only did a little drinking bottle, but I'm going to go back, do a gallon of water, and then fill the engine front rotor full of sea foam. I don't know what vac line goes just to the front rotor but I will research I guess..


anyways I will keep you up to date.

Thanks
~Tweak