i'll say this,

i have s4 n/a gxl and when i shift at 7000 i get a nice little chirp on my first to second shifts. but when i shift at roughly 7500 rpms, the *** end go sideways.

mods are:

tII drivetrain (flywheel back)
act clutch 9lb flywheel
rb header, presilencer, stock (i think) catback
pineapple sleeves,
ported manifolds,
tb mod

 

I don't make all of the power as these other guys, but I will say that I have yet to find my rev limiter......I've actually buried the tach a couple of times ((was prob around 10K)) accidently shifting late in donuts and whatnot ((and i know i'm asking for it just by saying this, but plz dont tell me about how unsafe of a driver I am......it's a rare occasion that I do anything of the sort, and when I do it's usually at around 4am in the biggest open parking lot I can find)), but the engine does stop making power right around the redline. I think the person that had the car before me may have disabled the limiter or something, but as far as I know, I can take it as high as I have the ***** to. As for the engine itself, it still runs smooth at those rpms but there is always the danger of something suddenly failing and throwing it all out of whack. I was told once by a guy that worked at various rotary performance shops that when most people rebuild a rotary that they balance it up to 12k, and he even went so far as to balance it up to 14k on anything he did. This is only for the e-shaft and the rotors of course, so there is still the possiblity of warping a stationary gear, but still...........

NOTE: correct me if I'm wrong, but don't GT cars or whatever with rotarys hit 12-16k easily?

 

I have heard of around 12K, but never as high as 16K. And remember these are race cars, they are very very expensive motors that do that. I know of few people who have their motor setup for even 9K. Even if you do get the motor balanced with the right parts, you have to worry about your cooling, oiling, and ignition system aswell, because they are made for 7-8K.

 

i shift at 8200 and loving it

 

secondary injectors do matter and DO affect gas mileage read up on it at rx7.com because they run at 80-100% of their capabilites and primaries run at around 58% that is why there is a 3800 rpm hesitation

 

Did you read my post? Engine load and rpm determine fuel consumption, not which injectors are firing. That info at RX7.com is wrong, and it sounds like you don't completely understand how EFI works...

 

sometimes i'm known to bounce it off the rev limiter, but usually i shift right before it tries to bounce... i've had it bounce off at 120ish mph in 4th gear... the car got jerky, not very fun... but then my Turbo II definately will get power past the stock rev limit

 

If I red line, and the buzzer doesent go off, Where can the problem be ? My car Red Line buzzer used to work, but now it doesent someone please help. Ice mark are you there ?

 

I have a 89 GTU with a 88/89 frankenstein motor... S4 block and rotors, full S5 intake and exaust. All the HP of the S5 with the 7K redline. So basicly my red-line is now 7K.

I usually take it to about 7250 MAYBE it'll slip to 7500 in 1st.

 

ive gone past redline once on my s4 na. i only took it to 7500 and i could feel the lack of power that high. theres really no point unless youre modded out.

 

about 8000 8200 wit my s5 street port setup..
but i had an 85 gsl-se but it was 4 port bridged wit a holley 600 and i use to shift around 9500-10,000 but i also had racing beat bearings

 

I redlined with my brother in the car just to show him it could, but i rarely do it. Normally i shift under 4K unless i'm merging into traffic then i'll shift around 7 or something like that. Gotta get upt to speed faster

 

I just love the sound (the engine, not the buzzer!). Like someone described it, its like a chainsaw cutting through fiberglas, and I have to hear it make that beautiful music at least once a day.

 

bACK AROUND TO 2K AFTER I PASSED 8 ON 89 TURBO II..
MAZDA RECCOMENDS YOU DONT GO ABOVE 8500 RPM THATS WHAT THE FACTROY SPECS FOR THE MOTOR IS..
BUT HEY IF YOU WANT SPEED YOU WILL GET IT GOING UP TO THAT RPM..REMEMBER BEFORE YOU TRY TO GO THAT FAR HAVE A FULL EXHAUST AND A FCD..

 

3800 hesitation is because of bad engine grounds. i know this because i ran some new grounds from the engine to the body and i don't have this "hesitation" anymore.

 

this post has been around a while... I first saw it when I had just bought my all-stock GXL, I think (this jan.)

now that I've gotten to know my car a little better ... I can answer the question. it feels to me that power drops off about 7000RPM. for normal driving around town, 6000 is my sweet spot.

hopefully that will change when I get my streetport/CAI/full exhaust/lightweight drivetrain/racing wheels/turbo/NOS/flux capacitor and... well, I have some dreams

 

22lbs times some number. rotating weight. anyone know how much of a difference it would be though. oh, and is rpm's measured at the flywheel, im kinda dumb...

is it bad to take a car to redline often? im getting an fc this summer so for now i drive my dads civic and its so slow, i drive it on the weekends and it gets about 200rpm short of redline about 15 times.

 

mikne only has good power up to 7500, then it just feels useless, but VERY LOUD.

88 na

 

once i streetported mine, and had the exhaust and intake, mine kept pulling all the way to redline(7k), but i don't like shifting past that.
when it was stock, it started falling off around 6k

 

Some of you really drive like old women eh?

 

Since I have a turbo that holds boost to redline, I usually take it up to 7600.

 

If I am feeling like it I shift around 7800rpm. The dyno says it is still making power and the wideband says I am ok.

But that is not very offten. I wonder what the p/s, a/c, and alt can take?


James

 

I shift my n/a s5 at 8k a couple times a week.

 

In my previous '87 TII, I'd not replaced the tach with a broader range, but I was regularyly off the gauge. I probably routinely reached into the low 9krpm except in 5th gear. The engine is is stock, stock apex oil metering, not milled for clearance, and I use AMSOIL 5W-30. Probably not related, a few months later I ran lean with 87 octane, and popped a rotor. Nice about the RENESIS limit aye?

 

What's the deal on S5 T2s? The redline is 7k, but the S5 NA redline is 8K. Is it safe to take them to 8k since it's bascially the same motor? You don't get any power up there on the stock setup, but if you're modded a bit there is power to be had. Anybody?