j-spec890

Hey,
Im A newbie here and i luv rx-7's but i dont know a lot about them like i know a few things here and there and im 16 and im gettin a car pretty soon but can anyone tell me the best kind of 2 generation rx-7 i can get and tell me how much it would be? well if you could answer that then thanx for answerin........ i repeat i know u guys mite hate on me for being a freshsish or sumthin but yea.... so i kinda need help here i wanna get a good car for the streets. ok thanx

WAYNE88N/A

ahh, to be 16 again...dude, you're gonna get 25 different answers as to what 2nd gen to get...just get one that's not ragged out so you don't have to work on it from day 1...

j-spec890

ooo yea... i jus remebered is it the Rx-7 Turbo 11? and can sum1 plz tell me wth a j-spec is cuz so amny ppl been tellin me try to find a car with that engine and sum said not to try too. so if u could help me out that would be nice

j-spec890

ooo ........ ok..... But still what would be a nice one?

RylAssassin

No, heres my recommendation to you

DONT BUY AN RX7 UNTILL YOU HAVE GOOD DRIVING EXPERIENCE

I say this for your own good and for the good of the Rx7 because there are to many 16 year olds that trash these cars right after they buy them.
Invest in a honda or other manual transmission car to learn off of then get an rx7.
You will appreciate it a lot more believe me.

theonlygreat

I don't know why people say this. Almost every car used to be rear wheel drive and a lot harder to handle at the limits than an rx7. I bought a beat up '74 Dodge Charger when I was 16 for $500. It had some bald tires that had probably been on there since the 70's which I did not replace. I am still alive, the car was still alive and in working order when I sold it. If he's going to be stupid and crash a car, it's going to happen whether it's FWD, RWD, or AWD it's just whether he's going head on into the telephone pole from understeer or sideways from oversteer.

j-spec890

i drive good and i did have a honda but i got bored of it and sold it and i wanna get a faster car now and i like the rx-7 a lot and ti know they r fast and i qwouldnt crash into a telefone pile lol... But is it hard to handle the rx-7? or sumthing?

rotard

I dunno... Every 16 y/o thinks they drive great. I know I did, and I just had an old Ford Festiva, and I came so close a few times... I'm totally not raggin on ya, just saying from experience. In 3-4 years, if all things go well, you'll be a decent driver.

If ya really want a 7 -- I can totally understand -- then stick with an n/a to start. Less power, but more linear power delivery, less potential for expensive problems, less potential to wrap around a tree. Try to find something with low enough miles, ok body. Bring someone who knows their cars, get a compression check. Definitely shop around -- don't grab first one you see... Easier said than done sometimes. Aaron Cake has a good bit on his web site about buying -- too lazy to look up link, but I'm sure you can find it.

7s handle nice. Second gens don't oversteer much -- there's a funky rear suspension design, DTSS, probably good for a younger driver.

At any rate, good luck with whatever you do...

TwEaK

iTrader: (6)

j-spec dont worry im in your shoes also im also 16 i just finish getting my first Rx7 and trust me its not to hard you just need to be motivated and just have fun no matter where it is i know the situations i drive my Rx7 all the time i take it to the max but i know whats bad for the car and whats not i mean i drift with it just make shure you dont run into anything and if you race make shure theres no cops around and b4 you buy the car buy a laser and radar detector the valentine ones are the best and get a police interceptor radio once you have those 2 things i think youd be ok for racing cause remember cops radio each other when there going to bust a race or a party or anything so i think its a good idea neways pm me if you ever need anything.....
TwEaK

fstrnyou

wow, that was one hell of a run-on sentance.

most definately get an N/A. they can be made fast and the motors last twice as long.

j-spec890

yea...Well tahnx for tellin me But immma see what i can get but u can keep givin me suggestions oof what to get i wannna get a good car too sooo...

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Wow you sound like a 3 year old. Please try and complete words next time.

The turbo version is the Turbo II(Two). The general price range is 3-5k and they start showing their age around 100k-120k miles.

A Jspec is a Japanese Rx7 engine. All 2nd gen Rx7's were turbo over there. They are used for core engines or used/replacement engines since there are a lot of them available.

The Jspecs can be a big gamble. You may get a mint one which will last years or you could get one which runs for a few minutes.

Anyways. Use the search function and check out the FAQ's.

igottafc

iTrader: (6)

stick with the NA for starters. it will introduce you to our world of fixing breaking and fixing again. Be prepared to be broke, and be prepared to blow an engine. rx7's arent for everyone, will you be willing to work on your car more than driving it? if not id suggest a 1st gen 7 or buy another honda.

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

So you want a 7?
You love these cars?
Here is what you have to accept, know, and consider.

Alright, first off. This car is not a Honda, if something breaks in your Civic, you take it down to Bill's Honda of Metropolis, or whatever, or to any other mechanic. You leave the car there for an alotted amount of time, you give them some cash at the end, and then your car works like it used to. RX's sadly are a different story. This is not so much as a car as a commitment. Think of every other car as a girlfriend, they require attention, they need to be taken care of, things are often time easier fixed when problems occur, you break up with her, you find a new girlfriend. Consider a 7, a strict Catholic marraige, the kind that doesn't believe in divorce lol . You need to be completely and utterly devoted to keeping up your car, no matter the situation through thick and thin. If you don't take care of her you are going to be one sad sad man lol. Some say this is the problem with 7's, I call it their irresistible personality.
When your car breaks down, not if, when, (there are a few rare exceptions where the cars run perfectly for years so back off you lucky sob's who's cars are perfect! :P ) you are either going to have, to have a wealth of mechanical knowledge, or know someone that specializes in this kind of car. Repairs are a problem because so few mechanics are rotary experts. You also have to consider if you are going to have your car worked on by a shop, and you aren't dating the owner's daughter it is going to be pricy.
Take into account these cars are nearing their 20'th Anniversary, they are not rolling off the lot. Things are going to go wrong, whether it is small, ie. ; your seats have tears, your sunroof is leaky or rusted, your stereo surround has more cracks than a plumbers convention. They have large problems ie. ; Low compression, oil leaks, engine flooding, large body rust, been driven by another 17 yr old who was "the star of the local midnight club, with his mad crazy dori dori skizzil's" Or worst case scenario, they have a blown apex seal, they have no engine, they have major frame damage. Be sure to look for things like Bondo, or putty, GET YOUR CAR'S HISTORY. Your biggest aid in picking out the right '7 will be CarFax. Regardless they aren't perfect, finding one in mint condition is very uncommon. If you are definitely convinced this is the car you want, find one that has low miles and has been driven by someone older, preferably a nice old grandma, who's right ankle didn't extend all the way, and who only picked up groceries with it once a month .
If you still want to get this car, at your disposal you have a wealth of information on this and other sites. Before buying one of these car's read EVERYTHING you can about them. Their idiosyncracies are innumerable. You wouldn't buy a puppy without knowing what they eat, how to take care of them, what to do when they get sick. Don't buy this car without knowing your shiet, because trust me if you do, you will either be learning really fast to catch up, or giving up quickly after getting frustrated, when your car hesitates at 3800 rpm EVERY time, or your add coolant light buzzer goes off for hours at a time when your fluid levels are all normal, after you realized that it has only been a month or so and you already need to replace a quart of oil. Nearly every question you might have has already been answered twice or more on this or other FC forums before. There is a great feature on this site which I highly recommend it is the Search feature located at the top right hand portion of the screen, it will aid you in whatever way you need.
Another suggestion, while every person's car is their property and it is their right to do what they wish with it, you will get VERY negative responses if you go around asking, "How do I fit my mother's ironing board on the back of my car? I need more downforce!" or "Hey guys where can I get those super sweet LED exhaust tip covers that make it light up all import tuner'ish!?" Rotary owners tend to be purists and get VERY agitated when people suggest things that could commonly be considered "rice" affixed to anything that even generally resembles their own car. If you want to add washer lights, and, Altezza's be very quiet about and don't post any pictures telling people how cool it was browsing through the APC section at your local AutoZone.
There were 2 different main body styles of the Second Generation, Mazda RX-7. The first was 86-88(S4), these have the cookie cutter tail lights, the front bumper was less agressive and lacked the fog light option. They also sport the super cool black rubber mouldings that look so sexy....not. However the one thing I forgot! The 10th Anniversary TII, it has color matched Crystal White, wheels and body. The tail lights are also whited out on the gasket material. The mouldings are also color matched and several 10th emblems are emblazoned on the interior of the car and adorned along the outside. The 1989-1991 (S5) had the more popular round tail lights, it had the fog light option and the more aggressive front bumper, color matched mouldings, and more rounded mirrors. There are many differences but those are the main ones from the outside. Their are many other characteristics that differ internally and externally but those are the general visual differences.
For much more additional information about the differences in each year, read the sticky what did my FC come with?. This will give you a good idea of what you want to look for.
As for TII vs. N/A, there is a whole lot of car in the TII, the same goes for an N/A but the TII can be a potentially dangerous car to a younger and less experienced driver. You also have to take into consideration your insurance costs. Sure with mom's old Plymouth Voyager, you were paying 100 bucks a month, with a TII and several speeding tickets, you will be eating Ramen morning noon and night and cutting your own hair to start out. The FC is a great car with it's near 50/50 weight distribution but this also means if you are flooring it especially through a turn, you are going to learn VERY fast, that the back wheels love to get in front of those front wheels lol. A TII driven irresponsibly, is asking for a popped motor, or a popped off head after you plow it into a nice big Oak tree.
The TII having more horsepower is going to give you a more in the back of your seat feeling, however it also is going to need a motor noticeably sooner than an N/A from the same year with the same mileage. In addition once bitten by the boost bug you are going to want to push that car more and more, long story short, you have an intake, open exhaust and an SAFC, with no upgraded fuel modifications. Crank that baby up to 12 psi and pop. There you go 1500$ bill if you want to get it running again. Not to mention the amazing gas prices you will probably soon realize come with the TII FC's.
An N/A is a much safer option for an inexperienced driver, it is still a fast fun car, and it's reliability is twice that of it's TII brother. The gas mileage will also be more appropriate. There is still a world of expansion in terms of performance modifications for the N/A's and most of them are hardly as dangerous to the long life of the car as mods commonly made to TII's. Not to mention your insurance will not be as much as the TII, and if you really want to go turbo later, you can do a conversion and you will have the help of hundreds who have done it before you.
These cars are a handful of fun and a handful of work. If you are willing to love this car, and be dedicated to it's maintenance, and treat it with respect you will have only the most fun with this car. However if you want a fast car that is going to be cool to drive, but reliable, and work on it won't cost your left nut, look into other options, such as a 240sx, Talon, 300 Z TT.
If you finally do end up deciding on the '7 make SURE this situation doesn't come up.
"Oh man I have 4300$ that dude is selling his car for 4250$!!! SWEET!!! "

Things will NEED to be replaced whether in the long term or the short term, don't blow all of your money on the car and have none left over for maintenance. I emphasize the rainy day fund for this car. You will always appreciate having an extra 'G lying around when you blow your clutch or you sieze the engine or whatever. Always remember an FC doesn't cost what it is sold for, it cost's 2000$ more period. If you follow this you will at least be a little ahead if you pop your engine or get a sold a lemon and need to replace a lot.
REMEMBER, READ, READ and READ SOME MORE. The more info you can have on this car the more you will save yourself in the long run.
In my opinion, these car's are among the nicest ever made, I love my car and I wouldn't take anything else in it's place, (okay maybe the legendary/imaginary 2006 RX-7) but it is my love for this car that let's me see past it's shortcomings. You really have to be prepared to commit yourself to your car 100% and not abuse it, otherwise you are going to be a frequent Greyhound member.
Whatever your decision, congrats on turning 16, congrats on whatever you get, and drive safely. Always buckle up, never drink and drive, and try to not get tickets they make insurance hell . And in closure, welcome to RX7club.com's 2nd Gen Forum.

--Fritz

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

I couldn't edit it because too much time had passed but there was a lack of indentation I wanted to fix.

EDIT:
So you want a 7?
You love these cars?
Here is what you have to accept, know, and consider.

Alright, first off. This car is not a Honda, if something breaks in your Civic, you take it down to Bill's Honda of Metropolis, or whatever, or to any other mechanic. You leave the car there for an alotted amount of time, you give them some cash at the end, and then your car works like it used to. RX's sadly are a different story. This is not so much as a car as a commitment. Think of every other car as a girlfriend, they require attention, they need to be taken care of, things are often time easier fixed when problems occur, you break up with her, you find a new girlfriend. Consider a 7, a strict Catholic marraige, the kind that doesn't believe in divorce lol . You need to be completely and utterly devoted to keeping up your car, no matter the situation through thick and thin. If you don't take care of her you are going to be one sad sad man lol. Some say this is the problem with 7's, I call it their irresistible personality.

When your car breaks down, not if, when, (there are a few rare exceptions where the cars run perfectly for years so back off you lucky sob's who's cars are perfect! :P ) you are either going to have, to have a wealth of mechanical knowledge, or know someone that specializes in this kind of car. Repairs are a problem because so few mechanics are rotary experts. You also have to consider if you are going to have your car worked on by a shop, and you aren't dating the owner's daughter it is going to be pricey.

Take into account these cars are nearing their 20'th Anniversary, they are not rolling off the lot. Things are going to go wrong, whether it is small, ie. ; your seats have tears, your sunroof is leaky or rusted, your stereo surround has more cracks than a plumbers convention. They have large problems ie. ; Low compression, oil leaks, engine flooding, large body rust, been driven by another 17 yr old who was "the star of the local midnight club, with his mad crazy dori dori skizzil's" Or worst case scenario, they have a blown apex seal, they have no engine, they have major frame damage. Be sure to look for things like Bondo, or putty, GET YOUR CAR'S HISTORY. Your biggest aid in picking out the right '7 will be CarFax. Regardless they aren't perfect, finding one in mint condition is very uncommon. If you are definitely convinced this is the car you want, find one that has low miles and has been driven by someone older, preferably a nice old grandma, who's right ankle didn't extend all the way, and who only picked up groceries with it once a month .

If you still want to get this car, at your disposal you have a wealth of information on this and other sites. Before buying one of these car's read EVERYTHING you can about them. Their idiosyncracies are innumerable. You wouldn't buy a puppy without knowing what they eat, how to take care of them, what to do when they get sick. Don't buy this car without knowing your shiet, because trust me if you do, you will either be learning really fast to catch up, or giving up quickly after getting frustrated, when your car hesitates at 3800 rpm EVERY time, or your add coolant light buzzer goes off for hours at a time when your fluid levels are all normal, after you realized that it has only been a month or so and you already need to replace a quart of oil. Nearly every question you might have has already been answered twice or more on this or other FC forums before. There is a great feature on this site which I highly recommend it is the Search feature located at the top right hand portion of the screen, it will aid you in whatever way you need.

Another suggestion, while every person's car is their property and it is their right to do what they wish with it, you will get VERY negative responses if you go around asking, "How do I fit my mother's ironing board on the back of my car? I need more downforce!" or "Hey guys where can I get those super sweet LED exhaust tip covers that make it light up all import tuner'ish!?" Rotary owners tend to be purists and get VERY agitated when people suggest things that could commonly be considered "rice" affixed to anything that even generally resembles their own car. If you want to add washer lights, and, Altezza's be very quiet about and don't post any pictures telling people how cool it was browsing through the APC section at your local AutoZone.

There were 2 different main body styles of the Second Generation, Mazda RX-7. The first was 86-88(S4), these have the cookie cutter tail lights, the front bumper was less agressive and lacked the fog light option. They also sport the super cool black rubber mouldings that look so sexy....not. However the one thing I forgot! The 10th Anniversary TII, it has color matched Crystal White, wheels and body. The tail lights are also whited out on the gasket material. The mouldings are also color matched and several 10th emblems are emblazoned on the interior of the car and adorned along the outside. The 1989-1991 (S5) had the more popular round tail lights, it had the fog light option and the more aggressive front bumper, color matched mouldings, and more rounded mirrors. There are many differences but those are the main ones from the outside. Their are many other characteristics that differ internally and externally but those are the general visual differences.
For much more additional information about the differences in each year, read the sticky what did my FC come with?. This will give you a good idea of what you want to look for.

As for TII vs. N/A, there is a whole lot of car in the TII, the same goes for an N/A but the TII can be a potentially dangerous car to a younger and less experienced driver. You also have to take into consideration your insurance costs. Sure with mom's old Plymouth Voyager, you were paying 100 bucks a month, with a TII and several speeding tickets, you will be eating Ramen morning noon and night and cutting your own hair to start out. The FC is a great car with it's near 50/50 weight distribution but this also means if you are flooring it especially through a turn, you are going to learn VERY fast, that the back wheels love to get in front of those front wheels lol. A TII driven irresponsibly, is asking for a popped motor, or a popped off head after you plow it into a nice big Oak tree.

The TII having more horsepower is going to give you a more in the back of your seat feeling, however it also is going to need a motor noticeably sooner than an N/A from the same year with the same mileage. In addition once bitten by the boost bug you are going to want to push that car more and more, long story short, you have an intake, open exhaust and an SAFC, with no upgraded fuel modifications. Crank that baby up to 12 psi and pop. There you go 1500$ bill if you want to get it running again. Not to mention the amazing gas prices you will probably soon realize come with the TII FC's.

An N/A is a much safer option for an inexperienced driver, it is still a fast fun car, and it's reliability is twice that of it's TII brother. The gas mileage will also be more appropriate. There is still a world of expansion in terms of performance modifications for the N/A's and most of them are hardly as dangerous to the long life of the car as mods commonly made to TII's. Not to mention your insurance will not be as much as the TII, and if you really want to go turbo later, you can do a conversion and you will have the help of hundreds who have done it before you.

These cars are a handful of fun and a handful of work. If you are willing to love this car, and be dedicated to it's maintenance, and treat it with respect you will have only the most fun with this car. However if you want a fast car that is going to be cool to drive, but reliable, and work on it won't cost your left nut, look into other options, such as a 240sx, Talon, 300 Z TT.

If you finally do end up deciding on the '7 make SURE this situation doesn't come up.
"Oh man I have 4300$ that dude is selling his car for 4250$!!! SWEET!!! "

Things will NEED to be replaced whether in the long term or the short term, don't blow all of your money on the car and have none left over for maintenance. I emphasize the rainy day fund for this car. You will always appreciate having an extra 'G lying around when you blow your clutch or you sieze the engine or whatever. Always remember an FC doesn't cost what it is sold for, it cost's 2000$ more period. If you follow this you will at least be a little ahead if you pop your engine or get a sold a lemon and need to replace a lot.
REMEMBER, READ, READ and READ SOME MORE. The more info you can have on this car the more you will save yourself in the long run.

In my opinion, these car's are among the nicest ever made, I love my car and I wouldn't take anything else in it's place, (okay maybe the legendary/imaginary 2006 RX-7) but it is my love for this car that let's me see past it's shortcomings. You really have to be prepared to commit yourself to your car 100% and not abuse it, otherwise you are going to be a frequent Greyhound member.

Whatever your decision, congrats on turning 16, congrats on whatever you get, and drive safely. Always buckle up, never drink and drive, and try to not get tickets they make insurance hell . And in closure, welcome to RX7club.com's 2nd Gen Forum.

--Fritz

Fritz_X

iTrader: (1)

double post

igottafc

iTrader: (6)

very well said Fritz.

rowtareh?

iTrader: (1)

Holy craph that was really annoying Fritz.

Just think with your head kid, and don't buy the first thing you see. I looked on Ebay well over a year, did not find anything I wanted, had a friend selling one, it was flooded and found he sold it for one hundred bucks, and a week later the engine caught fire.

Now I currently own an 88 SE(base model,NOTHING special). It is bone stock, but can haul for being so heavy and not too much hp. I have driven in a 3rd gen, hauled major ***, and scared the living **** out of me, and I have driven in a REPU(Rotary Engine Pick Up), which was one hell of an experience.

Just think with your head. And another good point of advice. If you get a N/A(Naturally Aspirated engine, no turbo), don't mod the **** out of it. The N/A's are labeled to be slower than ****, and if you mod it, you will realize that it sucks.

Just shop around. AND READ UP ON THIS FORUM!!

mickmania

if you are going to buy a Rx7. Just remmebr this DONT BLOW ALL UR MONEY ON THE CAR. Save some of it on repairs beacuse your gonna have alot of them. Just take car of the car. Check all the fluids and have serivices done on it. If you treat it right, it will treat u right. So think about it before you go and buy it, casue there will be time that u just gonna hate this car.

fstrnyou

i got my car on a had to have a car today kinda thing. i'm kinda split between liking it and hating it. when it runs, it's the best thing in the world, but, when it's not, i freaking hate it. the only thing i've HAD to replace so far is the motor........ twice.

j-spec890

Wow.... Well Ryte now i got 5,000 my parents are buying me the car... sorry i know im spoiled for this one but fritz the explaination was GREAT! and Row-Tar-Eeeh it wasnt annoying.. cuz i asked around a few forums and they have been sayin oo no you wont get much trouble with that car and **** but then until my friend sent me to this site and Fritz my man here jus told me a Dictonary of what i got to look out for ( thanks for that to thats wha i was kinda lookin for if the car was a pain in the *** to work with) but i luv them cars and if i ever had one i would treat it like a girl friend ****... if my real girl friend ever put her legs up on the dash board im kickin her out the car and me and the nice 7 r gonna take a visit to the car wash to clean her up again and keep her nice and shiny but.. yea i noticed u got to work with the engine a lot and thats good cuz i wanna be a car mechanic when i grow up and My cuzzin he had an rx-7 and did hly **** did that ever pull me back i got like glued into the seat. but i know not ot spend the money on all the car and i dont really like hookin up cars on the outside maybe sum rims took look nice but i llike to do engine work instead.. make it look like a sleeper buuahahahahahahahaha. lol and this car is like the number 1 i can afford cuz really no other car can be fast like this one well i think.. lol fritz i know the rear wheels wants to jus smack the **** out of the front wheels and send them to the back.. But thank u a lot for tellin me this now i think imma rock the N/a first then the T11 lol. dont want my car ot meet a tree cuz im not to experinced for the car.. But no doubt im gonna get a 7 but N/a to star tout with .................... and Row-Tar-Eeeh what do u mean dont do nuttin to the car or ill think its **** if i do sumtin to it?????.....( part got me confused) thanks fritz for the congratz and the explanation.. thanks man... and yea i knew about the Search feature lol im not that dumb now come on... but hey guys thanks for all buut got to be out to school now ( gay ****** school cant wit to beat the **** outof the American cars there like mustangs cand cameros a lot ther) no doubt i know the tx-7 will beat it but peace out! oo and if u could give me more suggestions too tit wil be cool

Cwaters

Should spend a bit more time in that school I think. I don't have the energy to read your post right now. Translating it is more than I can deal with tonight.

Drive all the RX-7s that are for sale in your area. Buy the one you like best.
Spend the rest of your cash on tools.
Good luck with your car.

CW

skunks

get a civic, their so much nicer (lots of aftermarket support for them to make them pretty pretty) and much more relible! you get wayyyy better gas millage and its a good car to learn on.