carl_9_9

how long could i go with a throw out bearing going out. cause im trying to find someone who isnt going to hold it for a couple of days, cause i need it to go to work, i dont have anyone car to borrow. what would happen if it went all the way out or me driving with it like this.

see what happens is my car will stop at a stop sign. i would put it in first hold the clutch and wait. well while i was waiting, not hard but just a little it will want to nudge foward. also i get a little grind in second and third. more of a click when shifting. sometimes when i stop and try to shift into first, it wont let me, and i have the clutch all the way down.
i tell u this just in case it might not be the throw out bearing. anything i can check will help. i thought it might also be the hydrolic part of the clutch.

i was also told it could be low fluid in tranny, if it was what symptoms would i have.

what u think.

pjtj2

iTrader: (3)

This sounds like a problem in the hydraulic system, either the master or slave cylinders. First thing to check is the fluid level in the master cylinder. If it's low, top it off and bleed the system per the service manual instructions. Worn seals in either the master or slave can cause the symptoms you describe. Usually you'll also notice the pedal resistance to be softer than normal.

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

sounds like the clutch isnt disengaging all the way.. adjust the throw.

carl_9_9

its, not softer. and my clutch fluid is all the way up. my throw out bearing is not whinning either.

carl_9_9

adjust the throw?

Tournapart

iTrader: (4)

sounds like a worn out pressure plate, you WILL have to change the clutch soon

stevensimon

iTrader: (11)

yes. there is a nut on the back of the clutch pedal that adjusts when the clutch engages relative to the pedal.

carl_9_9

will i mess up my car if i drive it with a bad throw out.

scathcart

No.

And its not your throw out bearing.

Your clutch isn't disengaging all the way. When you push down the clutch, a rod presses on a piston in the clutch master cylinder. You need to make the piston travel farther by making the rod move farther. You adjust this under the dash by loosing off a jamnut and turning the rod that attaches to your clutch pedal. Then, you retighten the jamnut.
I bet your freeplay is a little excessive too.

All this is listed in both the FSM and Haynes under: adjusting freeplay.

You can damage your transmission if you do not fix this.

carl_9_9

that sounds better scathcart, cause my i bought the car with a new clutch and rebuilt engine. and im pretty sure they change the throw out bearing too. is it in the 1300cc site. ive never went threw a new clutch, the fastest was like 60k miles and it was used.

scathcart

Its not a worn clutch.
If it was a worn clutch, it would be slipping under load.

Your problem is that it is not slipping enough with the clutch depressed... the clutch is still partially engaged when the pedal is fully depressed. To fully disengage the clutch, you need to put more travel into the clutch fork, and if your hydraulic system isn't losing fluid or feeeling soft, all that leaves is adjustment.

Or, a bent clutch fork.

But let's start with the adjustment

carl_9_9

ok i will try that. i will make it go out right. hopefully. making it longer will work.

carl_9_9

i did it, and it worked.

it usually doesnt start happening until it gets warm too. but when i adjusted it. i could shift easier than i use to. so i think it worked.

carl_9_9

thanx u just saved me some well needed money.

scathcart

Orgy time!