I bought a 1990 NA ragtop two days ago. The guy said it started running like crap in 2006 and he parked it. He started it and drove around once a year and he said it smoked. Then this year he couldn't get it to start. So I bought it for $500.

Anyway I did compression test and it seemed fine. Three bursts steady as I turned it over at about 85-90 PSI. Did a leakdown test and it seemed to hold pressure for the almost hour I put 13 PSI to it. So I drained all the fuel by jumping the two wire clip under the hood as shown in the included Haynes manual and redirected the feed line into a 50 gal drum. I thought, man this thing is taking forever to drain. So I tested fuel pressure....didn't even move the gauge. So I remembered the guy saying he took the fuel pump out at some point. So I started there with my newfound knowledge. It appeared he didn't reassemble it quite right. I reassembled and made sure to really press the clip onto the pump shaft until it locked on. Plugged the pump back into the boot. Tested for fuel pressure at the pump. Perfect. Then replaced the fuel filter, which seemed to have not been done in forever. I put in 44K and some 91 octane, primed the fuel system for about 10 seconds. Turned the car over and it immediately fired and ran flawlessly. Not even one miss.

So I drive the car for about 20 miles. The car runs awesome. It makes my old gen 1's seem like dogs. Anyway I stop and put in more fuel and got subway. When I came out and tried to start the car it didn't want to run. Then I got it running and saw white smoke, but only for about 20 seconds maybe. I drove it back to the shop and as I pulled it in the low coolant buzzer turned on. I immediately shut it off.

I then got out of the car and looked at the overflow tank. IT was completely full. I suppose I should also mention at no point did the temp get hot on the gauge. So my question is this: Is there anything that would cause a condition like this other than the dreaded failure of the coolant seal? And if it is the coolant seal, does anyone think the alumaseal fix can work if I let the car get cold then add the Alumaseal and drive until running temp and shut it off. Rinse and repeat this procedure a few times and see what happens? Or am I destined to learn how to rebuild a Wankel?

Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions.

 

No, No, No, and yes

 

fyi- there is a drain in the fuel tank, much easier then pumping it out.



remove the thermostat for now and see what happens

 

That's not the answer I was shooting for...well any suggestions on what kit I will need for this rebuild if that is the case? The cheaper the better of course....and who should I get it from?

Thanks!

 

Mmm... I beg to differ. The radiator cap can cause overheating and engine coolant will get past the cap and end up in the overflow tank where it will boil at atmospheric pressure. This will also cause the low coolant light. Replace the radiator cap first, flush the cooling system with clean water, redo the pressure test on the cooling system. Good luck.

 

Will do this today....if I can get a radiator cap locally. I will post results. Please keep suggestions coming. I have a feeling I am going to learn a lot in a short period of time. I am also searching the forum for keywords, and have been doing so before picking up the car. One thing though, the car never overheated, or even got high on the temp gauge. It stayed just under half way and didnt fluctuate once it hit running temperature.

Thanks again all.

 

The white smoke and not wanting to start thing may be something else, but the evidence does sound condemning. It may be a coolant seal, then again, without further testing nobody can say for sure.

 

When you do the cooling system flush be sure to put coolant back in right away. Do not wait an hour or a day to "try it out." Plain water will cause the irons to rust in a hurry. If next week you have to have the engine apart. you'll see how thin the coolant seal walls are.

When we got our JDM Tii for the vert the front iron was rusted out so we've seen what a little bit of coolant-less water can do.

 

the white smoke could have just been excess fuel from the car not starting right away.

new cap, no thermostat- and see what happens. You can get a cap locally from any auto parts store

 

On my way to the parts store now. The reason I was doubtful about the cap was I am in a small town and none of the 5 parts stores had a fuel filter. But I called and they do have a radiator cap. So away I go.

 

radiator caps are pretty universal, later you can always get a more "oem" one should you want it

 

Get a coolant system pressure tester from HF... they're sub-100 bucks, and can end the discussion quickly!

 

Stock temp gauges in 2nd gens are notoriously unreliable. Go aftermarket for peace of mind.

 

the s4's gauge is pretty decent actually.

 

That^.

But it doesn't hurt following the other suggestions being they are low cost considerations.

As to the temp gauge, if fluid loss goes beyond a point, there is no fluid touching the temp probe to send a meaningful reading to your gauge.

 

Do everything said above, but that 1989-1992 temperature gauge is useless. You could have overheated, but you may not know. That stupid gauge doesn't move again till what.. 250F?

 

I have one. Initial pressure test was inconclusive. I now assume there was buildup wherever the leak is in the cooling system and after driving it for the short bit it must have knocked out the blockage. Hence my next post.

 

Well I did replace the radiator cap and while I was at it, I did replace the thermostat. I wasn't quite sure why that would build pressure to backup the coolant into the overflow tank, but for $10 I figured what the hell. I sure don't know everything, or I wouldn't be asking questions and trying to learn.

Anyway here is the deal. I did the champagne test and it looks like I will be tearing apart a rotary. There are definitely bubbles. And quite a few at that. And it doesnt take long to build up pressure into the system to push the coolant into the overflow tank. I am tempted to try the Alumaseal trick still because I don't think it will hurt anything. But also don't know if it will do any good. With the symptoms I listed in the original post does anyone here think there is a snowballs chance in hell that it could work? What would your suggestions be if you think it will work, just follow the directions, or run it to temp, then let it cool, then repeat?

And last but not least, what kit do you all suggest, and where is the best pricing for it? I am a bit bummed because that engine runs so great....oh well.

 

^ Don't be too bummed. You only had to pay $500 for a car. Besides, rebuilds are fun.

Don't bother with the "magic" fixes. Especially since they might not work, and you'll be stuck with extra goop and possible further damage when you tear it down.

You can look on mazdatrix, atkins, racingbeat websites just to name a few for rebuild & gasket kits.

 

Thanks for the sources. I know the alumaseal is quite a long shot and understand the success rate is low on the 13B engine. But I added a question and idea to an old Alumaseal thread which would be to add Alumaseal to cold rad/engine, then start and get to running temp, then throw a coolant pressure tester on and pump it up to say 15-20psi and let sit until cool, then rinse and repeat a few times...even if it were to fail I don't see being any worse off than I am right now....other than the $4 I would waste, and time. Im curious to see what comes of this idea......Until then I will check the sites you say for a rebuild kit.

Thanks!

 

kwikway irontite cermimic seal. don't put any other **** in or you'll trash who knows what.

 

If your going to try a fix in a can, loop the heater hose lines first so you dont clog up the heater core and end up having to tear apart the dash to replace it after you clogged it with crap in a can.

 

strap it to a pallet and send it to me.

unfortunately the simple fact is original engines coolant seals don't last much longer than yours have, add in the fact that the coolant in the engine was how many years old? acidic and likely killed what was left when driven without flushing it out. likely a broken iron or electrolysis pitting through a water jacket in the rotor housing(s).

my TII gave similar symptoms, i thought i snagged a deal and drove it for a few days after i got it but one day went into a convenience store and came out to it refusing to start, got it running with a jump from my truck and it smoked like a mosquito fogger back to my house where the engine came out. and the rest is history with that engine being the first of many.

 

I figured I would have more people at least say I had a hairbrained idea with pressurizing the system after warm with alumaseal in it....am I the only person at home on their computer this weekend? lol.

Thanks for the posts. As for this other block seal, what is everyone's take on it? If used, am I going to have a bunch of **** to clean out if/when I have to open up the engine?

Thanks!