2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

please please Help, s5 t2 problem

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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 08:14 PM
  #1  
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From: socal
CA please please Help, s5 t2 problem

hello. well i bought a s5 t2 and it is acting weird, the problem is this: when the car is cold it runs perfect, and boosts perfect and drives . but when it gets warm it will not go past 3,000 rpms. it makes a bogging sound, like it is chocking out. and will do it everytime i try to rev it passed 3,000 rpms. so i thought it was that it needed a fuel cut defenser, so it does it with the fcd, so that was not the problem. then i thought to delete the emissions. and it still did it after the emissions delete. so i changed the mass air flow sensor, and it still did it.. THIS is were it gets weirder, i changed the TPS, and when it got warm with the new TPS on, it will bogg now at around 5,000 rpms.. instead of 3,000 rpms with the old TPS.. so there is a deference with the new TPS and the old TPS... but it is still not fixxed.... so i ask if ANY one knows what might be wrong or what is for sure wrong.

if u have any idea. PLEASE call or text me at 1661-979-6156, i am not shy , just want this to be fixed badly! my dreams are being crushed!! lol thanks for reading this , and have a nice day
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 09:24 PM
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If it's making a bogging sound, I'd suspect a clogged catalytic converter if your car still has them.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 09:50 PM
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did you take the OMP out,or disconnect it>?
the stock Ecu won't let you do that,.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 09:53 PM
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First off, don't I repeat DO NOT boost your engine when It's cold. That will just wear things down faster. Wait till she's good + warm. Things expand when they're hot - mazda made the motor to work properly when it's expanded. So don't rape it when it's cold.

I would try replacing your fuel filter. That might be clogged.
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Old Oct 26, 2010 | 11:28 PM
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+1 for Scrip ...

Do you have one of those fancy lazer therometers? Do you still have the pre-cats?

Take the therometer and measure the temp before the cat and after ... If the cat is flowing correctly you will see roughly a 200-350 degree increase on the back side of the cat.

NOW ...

If the front of the cat is HOTTER than the back you probably have a bad/clogged cat.

Let us know what you find.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 09:02 AM
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From: socal
i do not have any cat on the car. stright pipe. and im going to check the fuel fillter today. and when i said boost it when cold, i mean i rev it fine when cold, i dont put it under load. thanks for all the help so far guys. really
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 02:05 PM
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None of the solutions posted so far address all your symptoms.

I'd suggest your temp sensor is disconnector or has failed. This would mislead the computer to act as if the motor is cold even when running at operating temp. Also you should perform a TPS cal/adjustment using a test light. Good luck.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 05:08 PM
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From: CHARLOTTE, NC
hey man, try all of the things everyone is suggesting. i am not sure if you just had the engine installed of some major work done to it but this could happen if your ingition wires are crossed (having the leading and trailing mixed up from the coil packs to the engine/rotor housing). if you do not have a repair manual to show you this you can looking at another s5 motor in another 7. another thing you will need to do is to check you compression. these motors act up when the engine heats up and the compression is low. let me know what you find. wish you all the best in your endearvour to find a solution to your crushing dreams.
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 06:22 PM
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+1 Compression Test

if good on all faces

+1 Temp sensor - should be able to check with a multimeter at the pinout points at the ecu before & after it's up to operating temp.

Have you checked the grounds on your car? Especially the one under the manifold behind the alt on the block?
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cone_crushr
none of the solutions posted so far address all your symptoms.

I'd suggest your temp sensor is disconnector or has failed. This would mislead the computer to act as if the motor is cold even when running at operating temp. Also you should perform a tps cal/adjustment using a test light. Good luck.
+1
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Old Oct 27, 2010 | 08:55 PM
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From: socal
Exclamation

Originally Posted by cone_crushr
None of the solutions posted so far address all your symptoms.

I'd suggest your temp sensor is disconnector or has failed. This would mislead the computer to act as if the motor is cold even when running at operating temp. Also you should perform a TPS cal/adjustment using a test light. Good luck.


well the temp sensor is not connected. going to try and hook it up. and my compression is 90 in both rotors. ill let you guys know. thanks so very much. also found today that the o2 sensor was disconnected as well
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by jeepmatt
well the temp sensor is not connected. going to try and hook it up. and my compression is 90 in both rotors. ill let you guys know. thanks so very much. also found today that the o2 sensor was disconnected as well
disconnected?
i think you found your problem!
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 09:39 AM
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For grounding checkout this guide

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm

I would also check the TPS as posted above but with the volt meter method, make sure it’s fully warmed up.
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 02:28 PM
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From: socal
Originally Posted by Ryan123
For grounding checkout this guide

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/grounding.htm

I would also check the TPS as posted above but with the volt meter method, make sure it’s fully warmed up.
hey bro. thanks so much for the grounding info. ima check all the grounds today . thanks
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Old Oct 28, 2010 | 04:00 PM
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From: Whiterock
you could have a boost/vacuum leak.
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Old Nov 23, 2010 | 01:38 PM
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you're just overboosting. stock injectors stock ecu with a fat turbo inlet pipe and a full 3 inch straight pipe will do it. youre hitting 10 psi then fuel cut. fuel cut is around 8.5 psi
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