vegeta6263

I own a 1988 GXL N/A ( Completly Stock )
1. I want to thank all of you for your help, before i even post my questions, you guys are the best friends of a rotary engine enthusiast.
2. My car has 150,000 miles and it gives off white smoke everytime i turn it on ( i know i need a rebuilt soon but for now im not to worry about that ). what do u guys think it is?
3. Recently i have replaced the battery and got an oil change. The car dies on stop signs. or stop lights. Th erpms just drop by itslef an it keeps dropping until it gets to 0.
4. Evrytime the car turns on teh rpms rise all the way up to 3000 rpms and it takes about 8 min. fro it to go back to 1000 rpms I alwasy wait fro it to go to 1000 before i drive it.
5. Their is an oil leeakage problem from the middle of teh oilcooler lines, im getting remanufature dones> could u please list all teh stuff i need for the installation of teh remn. oil cooler lines? do i need new cooper washers? what are their sizes and where can i buy them? do i have to buy teh o-rings? shoudli ? i won't have enough money for teh rebuilt kits from atkind until 6 montsh from now so what do u gusy think shoudl i go aheadand byt teh o rings now or just instal l teh new oil cooler lines and then put teh new 0-rings with the rebuilt kits?
Please help me out and don't say please go chec out the manual cuz i don't own any. thanx so much.
P.S> i live in florida

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

Huked on foniks wurkd 4 me!

Check your TPS, and the BAC. These can affect your idle drastically.

jarrett

vegeta6263

what is a tps or bac? where are they located and how do i check them?

13bpower

1. your welcome

2. white smoke means the o-rings have gone out. Your burning coolant, it will/should overheat alot as the problem gets worse. Only solution, complete rebuild.

3. This could be many things, vaccum leak always being the first thing to check when the car won't hold an idle.

4. That is the "cold start" system on the car. It should only do that when the car is started cold and the idle should settle as the car warms up. You can drive it when it is cold, just keep the rpms under 3K until it is warm.

5. Oil cooler lines should be replaced as soon as possible if you care about the engine that is in their. I don't think you "need" NEW washers for the oil cooler lines, just reuse the old ones. Clean them of corse and make sure everying is sealed up tight.

PS- get a hayes manual. less than $20.

J-Rat

iTrader: (2)

TPS is the throttle position sensor. This is located on the front of the throttle body (herein referred to as the TB).

The BAC is the bypass air control valve. Its sole purpose in life is to control the idle of your car under varying loads.

Testing and adjusting these wonderful devices is covered in the Factory Service Manual (herein referred to as the FSM/Bible). This is available online (it would cost hundereds to purchase). I dont have the link handy, but its at www.fc3s.org.

Jarrett

GlenL

There are many threads on checking tps and bac. The search function is slow during peak hours, but is surprisingly accurate. Bam.

tps = throttle position sensor
bac = bypass air control

dr0x

I would say compression. But whatever works.

13bpower

Yes, that would be a good thing to check 2. I was just assuming that the car runs fine otherwise

vegeta6263

thanx guys, im buying the hayes manual right away. Now taht i have the repalcemnet of my oilcooler lines straight. HOw do i go on to fixing my o-rings>? should i just buy new ones? i heard some talk on the crc from pep boys an dthe use of purple degreaser?? does that apply to me or not? if it does could u guys break it down for me?
1. turn on the a/c to heat and the fan to max?
2. drain all the coolant? where is the screw located to drain all the coolant?
after that im lost hahah. thanx guys really.

Joonas

Mine did similar things and I say did because it dosent anymore, it dosent even run anymore, on mine it blew the seal betwine the rotor housing and the end cap thingy and it was leaking coolant into the combustion chamber. if your gonna drive it like this make sure your temp gauge works and dont let it get hot my temp gauge appeared to be working but then as the seal totally went on it the compression was pushed into the collant and blew it all out of the engine causing it to overheat rather quickly. I would suspect you need a rebuild, but thats just me

vegeta6263

That is very comforting!1 sh$#^%$##!!!!!! No i will not let my engine die!!! I can't !! help! ( My temp gauge is working fine and i have not seen it go past a quarter up) since i ahve an 88 i don't know where my bac is located nor my tps/

Amur_

Be *sure* that the smoke is burning coolant - smell it. There's no point in getting excited over what may turn out to be a little extra burning oil.

Btw, those 'o-rings' are more commonly called water jackets. Just FYI.

The cold start system is supposed to bring the revs to 3k for about only 15 seconds. Look at the rad at the bottom on the driver's side. You should see what looks like a big-*** brass bolt with two leads coming out of the back of it. This is the sensor that controls the 3k start up. Unplug one of the wires. Congrats - you've just disabled the 3k start-up. Disabling it won't hurt anything else and makes life easier for your 7 - revving to 3k when it's cold is hard on the motor.


Setting the TPS (easy):
http://www.johnr.com/tps.html


The BAC is on the driver's side of the upper intake manifold. It's hard to miss. I'm having no luck finding a pic in the Forum, but the Haynes manual has a picture of it on page 128, figure 9.2.

Checking the BAC:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...&highlight=BAC

Cleaning the BAC:
http://fc3s-pro.com/TECH/PROBLEMS/EM/bac.htm

vegeta6263

AMUR YOU ARE THE MAN!

HeffBoost

Don't if it's not too late. The FSM(Factory Service Manual) is far superior and it's available to you here immediately and free of charge.

vegeta6263

i haven't bought it yet, but my comp. is shitty and i can't download it.

yearrgh

it could be that you alternator or battery are borderline, and the extra load of the break lights on the system put it past the point where it can't spark. check the voltage when the car and all accesories are off, and when the car is on but all accesories are off. you should get at least 12 and 13 volts respectively

vegeta6263

Like the thread states the only solution was a COMPLETE REBUILD...The casting in the water seal groove area, and the edge of the seal support was completly broken. I have nothing else to say this thread is finished.