Please help with electrical problem
01-05-03, 07:11 PM
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Please help with electrical problem
Guys I need your help. Two days ago I started my car and after driving it for 5 miles a wierd buzz sound started coming out of the driver's kick panel and then all the warning lights came on. I stopped the car and checked where the buzz sound came from and then took the negative cable from the battery and after staring the car again, still the warning lights on. I decided go back home and in my way back the lights went off, then the car kind of stalled and the lights went back on again with the car runing. I am currently searching in this forum but I am confused, the problem can be between CPU, Alternator and who know what else. Please guys any help is highly apreciated.
Carlos
Carlos
01-05-03, 07:57 PM
#2
Former Moderator. RIP Icemark.
Check your alt first. You should be having at least 13.6 volts. If you are not, repair or replace the alt or the grounds to the engine and battery.
If the alt is putting out sufficent voltage, then check the CPU. Cold solder joints are the common culprit.
If the alt is putting out sufficent voltage, then check the CPU. Cold solder joints are the common culprit.
01-06-03, 12:03 PM
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I even think is the alternator belt, is kind of of too long to adjust it but I'll change it and see what's going to happens. I drove the car today and I noticed that when I rev the car and the reading on the gauge goes over 12.5, the lights goes off.
01-06-03, 12:17 PM
#5
The alternator belt must be tight. Very little deflection. You may think the alt. is turning correctly, but with a loose belt, it will be sliding around the pulley. Not turning the alt a correct speed. If you can turn the pulley inside the belt, naturally with the engine off, the belt isn't tight enough.
01-06-03, 12:17 PM
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If your alt isn't putting out enough zap your xmas tree (warning lights) will all come on like they did.
Either the alt is dying or your belt is slipping (and, yes, your belt can slip without squealing - cost me $125 to learn that lesson a year ago.)
Either the alt is dying or your belt is slipping (and, yes, your belt can slip without squealing - cost me $125 to learn that lesson a year ago.)
01-06-03, 05:54 PM
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Thanks guys. I actually think that I'll have to change the belt because there is not room to adjust it, tomorrow I'll have to go and get a new one and let you know guys. Thanks
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01-06-03, 05:59 PM
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Try to get a Bando belt (mazdatrix.com carries them.) They're the best choice. The Mazda dealers up here (Canada) dropped them a year ago in favour of Gates crap. I dunno if USA Mazda dealers still have them but if it's a concern/of interest do ask...
01-07-03, 06:00 PM
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I adjsted the alternator belt to the tightes position, the warning lights were still on, then I drove the car for like 10 miles and they went off, we'll see tomorrow what will happens, before I adjusted the belt, the lights went off few time, right when the gauge went above 12 volts, then dropped to 12 and the lights went on again. After I adjusted the belt just did this like three times and then all the sudden the gauge went to the next line after the 12 v. and is there since then, no lights since.
01-07-03, 06:49 PM
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Yes you are rigth I'll change it tomorrow, I just hate to buy a alternator and then find out that the problem was the belt, like happened to friend of mine.
01-16-03, 05:53 PM
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Hey quick question. I'm having the same problem, but I got dual belts on there, and I know they aint slipping. My alt puts out 14.5 volts when its doing its normal thing, then it drops as low as 10.5 volts when its having trouble. I'm hesitant to go and replace the alt cause I just bought it a short time before the engine broke down, so I doubt that it is already bad. Mark mentioned the grounds being bad. I am curious which grounds effect the alternator? I know people run an extra line directly from the alt post to the battery terminal. I will try that. Are there any others that could be the problem?
Also does it sound likely that my alt is the problem, or would it be something else?
Also does it sound likely that my alt is the problem, or would it be something else?
01-16-03, 06:45 PM
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Try extra ground wires first before you go after the alt. Less $ spent that way. 
I tend to think of it like this - *all* ground wires affect the charging sys.
Ground wires:
I tend to think of it like this - *all* ground wires affect the charging sys.
Ground wires:
Originally posted by me elsewhere... 
I got a little happy with ground wires on my NA FC, both to help my alternator and to chase the 3800 stumble (which I finally did eliminate.)
Using 6-gauge automotive wire (make sure it's the multi-strand automotive wire - don't use anything else - and don't use anything smaller than 10 gauge) I installed a ground wire:
1) from the negative battery terminal to the chasis (the outer bolt holding the master fuse block in place on front of the strut tower.)
2) from the alternator's tension adjusting bolt to the battery's negative terminal.
3) to replace the ground wire on the backside of the engine (running from the tranny housing to a nut up by the wiper motor.)
4) on the ECU harness in the passenger footwell. But this was a 3800 stumble fix and may not be for you. I don't have the desc. in front of me but a write-up does appear in a few FAQs out there... Also added a ground at the air boost sensor for the 3800 fix (which was what finally nixed it.)
5) to replace the main engine ground (from behind the plugs/under the oil filter to the chassis.)
6) from the y-pipe (where your exhaust splits to go out to your mufflers) to the chassis. There's supposed to be a factory ground there, but 15 years on the road tends to nuke them.
I'd also suggest adding a wire from the alternator output to the battery's positive terminal to parallel the stock wire and make the alternator's job easier. I've done this on my own 86 N/A.
You might consider adding grounding straps to the back of your car, too. I haven't, but that's because I'm willing to forgoe whatever the benefit is rather than sport attachments that I think look retarded. I don't have tassels on my coat and I'll be damned if I'll have any on my rotary rocket.
Make sure that all your connections are clean. Scrape away paint and remove any dirt or oil. Use an external tooth washer between each connector and the surface, if you can. And tighten the hell out of it. Use a spray-on enamel or good-sized dollop of di-electric grease on all the ground points to inihibit corrosion (if they start to rust they won't be as effective - my boost-sensor ground started to corrode not long after I put it in - I first noticed it when the stumble started re-appearing! I cleaned it up and nailed it with di-electric grease and she's been fine ever since.)
I got a little happy with ground wires on my NA FC, both to help my alternator and to chase the 3800 stumble (which I finally did eliminate.)
Using 6-gauge automotive wire (make sure it's the multi-strand automotive wire - don't use anything else - and don't use anything smaller than 10 gauge) I installed a ground wire:
1) from the negative battery terminal to the chasis (the outer bolt holding the master fuse block in place on front of the strut tower.)
2) from the alternator's tension adjusting bolt to the battery's negative terminal.
3) to replace the ground wire on the backside of the engine (running from the tranny housing to a nut up by the wiper motor.)
4) on the ECU harness in the passenger footwell. But this was a 3800 stumble fix and may not be for you. I don't have the desc. in front of me but a write-up does appear in a few FAQs out there... Also added a ground at the air boost sensor for the 3800 fix (which was what finally nixed it.)
5) to replace the main engine ground (from behind the plugs/under the oil filter to the chassis.)
6) from the y-pipe (where your exhaust splits to go out to your mufflers) to the chassis. There's supposed to be a factory ground there, but 15 years on the road tends to nuke them.
I'd also suggest adding a wire from the alternator output to the battery's positive terminal to parallel the stock wire and make the alternator's job easier. I've done this on my own 86 N/A.
You might consider adding grounding straps to the back of your car, too. I haven't, but that's because I'm willing to forgoe whatever the benefit is rather than sport attachments that I think look retarded. I don't have tassels on my coat and I'll be damned if I'll have any on my rotary rocket.
Make sure that all your connections are clean. Scrape away paint and remove any dirt or oil. Use an external tooth washer between each connector and the surface, if you can. And tighten the hell out of it. Use a spray-on enamel or good-sized dollop of di-electric grease on all the ground points to inihibit corrosion (if they start to rust they won't be as effective - my boost-sensor ground started to corrode not long after I put it in - I first noticed it when the stumble started re-appearing! I cleaned it up and nailed it with di-electric grease and she's been fine ever since.)
01-16-03, 07:03 PM
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Thanks Amur.
Got another question then. I repainted my engine bay while I had the engine out. Its got a fresh thick coat on it, and one of the places where it happens to be is where the engine ground from the tranny to the firewall (near the wiper motor is). I never scraped the paint awat from that, and there is probably some inside the hole on the wall that the bolt tightens into. You think that would cause I bad connection there? I'd hate the scrape away at my beautiful paint though
Got another question then. I repainted my engine bay while I had the engine out. Its got a fresh thick coat on it, and one of the places where it happens to be is where the engine ground from the tranny to the firewall (near the wiper motor is). I never scraped the paint awat from that, and there is probably some inside the hole on the wall that the bolt tightens into. You think that would cause I bad connection there? I'd hate the scrape away at my beautiful paint though
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