demahfahbun106

ok its me again with yet ANOTHER problem....i have a 87 turbo 2, with a re-wired walbro 255 pump,rb full turbo back,hks megaflow intake, dual alt pully,and an hks fuel cut defenser....NOW heres the problem...my car is bucking,loud pops and nothing but flames coming out of my exhaust....i can drive my car once i step slowly on the pedal and it drives like theres no problem but as soon as i floor it or press the pedal any harder then the car just sits there and when i try reving it while its out of gear the rpm just drops to like 1500 and sits there then about 2 seconds later it trys to jump up and then revs up to whatever rpm i let it.....the car starts up perfectly first try and idles with no problem, like i said i drive the car still just not stepping on it, it drives like nothing is wrong with it...i pulled the plugs to find that they were extremely black..i changed them and the fuel filter, i also changed the afm(have 3 now) i even tried spraying the tps with WD40 to see if that would help but still the same thing....what do you think could be happening????its just driving then breakin up then shooting flames...anyone please

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Check your coils, reground your injectors, test the fuel-pump and set the timing and TPS.

At least that'll get you started.

demahfahbun106

how do i test my coils???? and reground my injectors?? fuel pump is a brand new walbro..

Icemark

WD-40 on the TPS is a good way to distroy the TPS.

Also sounds like either a Timing or spark plug wire issue (like the spark plug wires are not on the correct plugs) or the fuel pump is running way to much fuel and it is running scary rich.

demahfahbun106

sorry but i didnt spray it on the tps lol i sprayed it on the spring in the front and in the back of the UIM hoping that would work...i been driving the car for a while with no REAL problems up until this..thats why i dont think it would be the pump..but once again how do you check the coils thanks

Icemark

well the WD-40 acts like an insulator so if it made it into the TPS, you will have dead spots.

and as far as the pump, yeah without some sort of control, the pump would be pumping way more than stock meaning that the injectors would be spraying way more, meaning you'd be running crazy rich

demahfahbun106

you think i should get a FPR?? also someone please tell me how to check these coils....thanks again

demahfahbun106

so nobody wants to touch this???

SureShot

You can check the TPS by setting your S-AFC to monitor the THR signal.
With the key on but without starting the engine, slowly pump the throttle & watch the THR gauge on the S-AFC.
It must move smoothly up & down with the throttle.
If the ECU sees any jumps or drops in the THR sweep, it will give random fuel cuts.

Battleborn7

To check the coils,the procedure should be done with a good ohmeter.The instructions for testing coil resistance are in the first two sections of any haynes or chilton manual.In addition to the above, check that you have the correct plugs in the right place and also the plug wires.It sounds like its misfiring.A fuel pressure regulator is a great addition to a high flow fuel situation but it does sound like you are misfiring.Fireballs usually occur when the gas ignites past the combustion chamber( such as in the cat )

NZConvertible

Why the hell do people keep repeating this crap? This is really bad advice! There is no part of the injectors or their wiring that should ever be grounded! Grounding the injector itself will do nothing, grounding the power wire will cause a short and a blown EGI fuse, and grounding the switching wire will cause the injector to be held fully open.

demahfahbun106

ok today i changed the coil pack by the battery because it wasnt firing AT ALL....well since i have changed it i still have the problem..i have a racing beat turboback exhaust (brand new still) thats why i doubt its the cat....also i just bought a afm from someone on this site and it looks like it was tampered with...the screw was adjusted so i tried messing with it but i still have the same problem....someone please help me this problem is just keeping me down and holding me back from all of my future mods(rtek 1.7,680cc,safc2 and a fpr) once i get this problem worked out then i put everything i have int he car so i can be "safe" thanks again

also not sure if this helps but when the car starts to buck or "break up" my a/f gauge goes all the way to lean....

slpin

iTrader: (9)

tps bad

NZConvertible

It sounds like injector problem to me. Have you checked to see that the plugs for all four injectors are clean and secure? You'll need to pull the UIM off if you haven't.

demahfahbun106

today i will just go and follow the regrounding thread in the archives so i can take care of everything one time... also this injectors were cleaned not even a year now...i will do the grounding first then if the probelm is still there then i will go and find a tps to change..thanks again i'll let you know

NZConvertible

Before you add a bunch of pointless extra wires, spend the time cleaning up the factory ground points instead, particularly the EFI ground on top of the engine and the main chassis ground on the front right strut tower.

demahfahbun106

ok will do...i will let you guys know what happens by the end of the day..thanks again for the info

demahfahbun106

ok i went and did the grounding thing and NOW my car wont start....no spark from either coil packs, also while the key is in the "ON" postion right under the comp fuse(first one from top) is smoking...when trying to start my car it clicks like if the battery is dead and then it cranks after 3-4 turns of the key(but still wont start)....please anyone this thing is just getting worst

demahfahbun106

somebody please help..give me an idea of what could be going on or anything that i should try

NZConvertible

Exactly what "grounding" did you do? It sounds like you've shorted something...

demahfahbun106

ok i added that ecu ground,grounded the coil pack by the battery,i didnt get to do the other one because i had no more wire..I added an extra ground to the ground under the UIM(injector harness ground) and i ran one more ground from the negative terminal to the ground untop of the UIM.....also when i seen that the problem started i CUT every wire i added BUT its still doing it.....whats going on..did i do something i wasnt supposed to???

demahfahbun106

anyone????

demahfahbun106

???please

NZConvertible

You said you saw smoke coming from the fuses. Have you checked to see if you blew any of them? If the MAIN or EGI fuses are blown the car won't start.

demahfahbun106

no fuses are blown..if the main was blown then the car wouldnt even crank BUT its cranking...the first fuse from the top is whats getting real hot BUT it wont blow and under it where the wires are is whats smoking.....i took apart ALLLL of the grounds that i added and its doing the same thing...does anyone know what it can be...anyone..