vaughnc

Guys - I have a great opportunity to test out some of the various vinyl repair kits on a vinyl convertible top. Eventually I'll swap on new a $400 ebay top, but I've been researching this all day to get up to speed.

Your thoughts / ideas are appreciated here.

A few facts:
1. Upholstery shops won't touch vinyl top repairs (although they fix vinyl seats which have MORE wear & tear issues)
2. Vinyl repairs are usually a) super-strechy "stick on tape" style b) iron on fix-strips & putty backfill... with color matching and "iron through texture sheets" to match the top texture c) cloth backed strips with chemical seam welding (no heat)
3. There's several grades, marine grade, auto grade, pool liner repair, tarp repair, etc...
4. General consensus on this website is to 1) Sew the rips with nylon thread 2) Use an inner-tube style patch under the top 3) apply top patch 4) be sure to trim the top & bottom patches for a seamless look.
5. Faded grey Vinyl can be "brought back" to a smooth buttery feel with liquid dressing, and the UV protectant restores the "deep ultra-black" look.
6. Vinyl should "melt together" making the repaired rip stronger than before, but I can't find any feedback on that. Everyone talks like it's only a temp solution that will eventually fail.
7. There MIGHT be some general iron-on vinyl patch strips that would not require sewing and under-patching, but I can't find any suppliers.

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Here's 2 solutions I'm considering, so feel free to comment on this stuff:
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JC-Whitney - DELUXE VINYL/LEATHER REPAIR KIT - ZX179731B

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000170101

- Includes everything needed to make expert, invisible and permanent repairs.
- Match grain and color...repair hardtops, convertible tops, car seats, door panels, dash padding. Enough material for approximately 40-50 ordinary repairs. Includes 8 automotive matched colors: White, Black, Dk. Brown, Red, Blue, Gold , Silver and Yellow. Includes heating iron, backing material, 2 oz. of cleaner, 2 oz. of clear dressing, 10 graining papers, color mixing guide, spatula and instructions.

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Permatex Vinyl and Leather Repair Kit 80902 VR-1A




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I've looked at the kits BELOW, and they don't seem to be very good. Your thoughts ??

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Evercoat Marine Vinyl Repair Kit - 100595
http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=213

Repairs light gauge vinyl air mattresses, vinyl upholstery, pool covers, pool liners, inflatable watercraft and beach toys. Kit includes 1 fl. oz. adhesive, 4.5" x 18" vinyle patch, spreader, alcohol pad, swab and scissors.



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LEATHER AND VINYL REPAIR KIT

Easily repairs burns, holes, rips and tears to large and small damaged areas
Simply mix your color, apply and let dry—no heat needed for near-perfect repairs!
Matches popular colors and grains—contains enough material for numerous repairs
Perfect for home, office, automotive, marine or RV use! Kit includes: 7 intermixable colors; color mixing guide; practice vinyl; grain papers; backing fabric; spatula; mixing cups and instructions.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/I...D:100000375693


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Tear-Aid Vinyl ONLY Type B Kit

- No Sewing
- Holds air under pressure even when stretched
- See-thru patch works with all colors
- Conforms to irregular surfaces
- Won't turn gummy in heat
- UV resistance inhibits discoloring
- Cuts easily with scissors
- Won't pull off when stretched

EASY PEEL AND STICK

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

Gosh, I think that all those patch kits have the same limitations: they are patched onto an already brittle top.

BTW, the best way to restore the faded top is to use duplicolor vinyl and fabric coating. It bonds to the surface and really adds life to your top. I used it on an old targa top before I re-covered it. I intend to coat my top with this product after the third or forth year, about the time that the top won't clean up and shine.

I have heard too many bad stories about various vinyl dressings to use them.

http://www.duplicolor.com/products/vinyl.html

Good luck with the experiment, keep us advised how it goes.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

it's like sewing dead skin back togather... i in the same vote, another rip appeared in my top yesterday..

vaughnc

A quote from miataforum on the JC Whitney kit. Looks like reinforcing the bonded repair might be needed. Maybe an underpatch and stitch??

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

There is also the issue that many tears on the side by the drains are not caused by age; they are caused by the top fabric bunching behind the structural bar. When the fabric bunches, the bar catches it and pulls the seam apart. If you reinforce the seam, the fabric tears. You can fix that tear, but if the problem happens, you are just going to tear it again.

Every time I put my top down, I stop at a 45* angle and use my hand to adjust the lay of the fabric behind the bar. Many times on the driver side, it is positioned to catch and pull. I know that if I don'd do this eventually the top will tear. This is my preventative action so I won't need a patch kit. You might want to look at this after you patch so the patch will remain intact.

Good luck.

rogrx7

iTrader: (11)

I think that section of the top should be re enforced

Turbo II

iTrader: (1)

I had a shop quote me 800 bucks parts/labor to replace mine. I think they were going to order it from ABB or whatever that place is that anyone can get them from. I also seem to remember in the factory manual I have they show using a patch on each side to repair bad spots.

jackhild59

iTrader: (7)

That might be a great idea for a brand new top, particularly if you re-enforce it from the inside. If the material was 'slick' and would allow the fabric to slide instead of bunch behind the support bar; It might also work if the reinforcment were 'stiff' an prevented the top from initially folding/bunching behind the support bar.

Every time I put my top down, I stop half-way, adjust the bunching so that it doesn't bind, then put the top the rest of the way down. I do this at the same time that I release the targa latch to fold the targa. It really adds no extra time to the process and insures that the top will not bind and tear.

I spend a lot of time working on this issue when I replaced my top. I didn't even have the car out of the garage yet. I put the top up and down 3-4 time with NO issues. Then, I put it down and heard stitching pop. I stopped and thoroughly checked it out. If I had allowed the top to continue down, it would have been ripped before the car was completely reassembled. Make no mistake: The top tearing on the side of the pockets is caused by folding/bunching up behind the support bar as the top goes down. Stop this, you stop the tearing.

Houpty GT

https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/convertible-top-should-i-buy-620085/

Here is a post I started a while ago. I finished putting in my top last week. I drove around with no rear glass for about half a week.

Robbins will sell you just the front or rear sections seperately. I replaced just my rear half and it matches up with the new part after a wash and armor all. I still need to get a little duct tape residue off of the targa section but over all there really was not enough wrong with it to need replacing the targa vinyl. Besides the top should be down if you are driving.

www.rxworld.com had the robbins tops the cheapest I found. You can find local dealers on www.Robbinstops.com . They also have the tops in cloth but it cost about $200 more for the rear section. I don't think it would be to bad trying a cheaper ebay top as long as they have good reviews on similar cars.