Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

Front Rotor housings...
Bottom-

Top-

Spark plug holes-


Front rotor - before cleaning

Rear rotor -

jacobcartmill

iTrader: (6)

i think like 5 of us tore down our engines this weekend. lol.

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

Rear Rotor Housing
Bottom-

Top -

Spark plug holes -

Exhaust -

E-shaft


What do you think? Is it rebuild-able?

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

Was a good weekend for it... It snowed here for most of it, so I had nothing better to do...This part was easy (cept for the flywheel nut). I am not looking forward to putting the accessories, wireing, and vaccum lines back on.

turbine

iTrader: (1)

looks good

alwayssideways

thats the fun part .. just dont include emissions, a/c and thats almost half the stuff you dont have to put back on . heheh

staticguitar313

iTrader: (2)

those housings look pretty good

jhammons01

^^ your housings do look good. you just saved $900-1000 bux.

Have fun.

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

Unless the coolant/oil passages are cracked... See milkshake in the "what is this crap" post... I cant really figure out why it had low compression since all 6 apex seals were intact and had some spring to them... Maybe the seal springs got flattened or the side seals got stuck(they were hard to pull out)?

onePOINTthree

wow looks like everyone was busy this weekend. I didnt work on a mazda but we got my friend's all motor 00 Integra Type-R running this weekend. Going to a local shop tomarrow for tuning and at the same time I'm ordering my 13BT

Falcoms

Engine looks real good, I'd say just stick with that stuff, new seal all around, new rotor bearings, and you'll be good to go! Be sure to look for ANY signs of heavy corrosion on the coolant ring area. If it is heavily corroded, then that would lead to coolant seal faliure and another blown engine.

Schmitty

iTrader: (11)

Are there any parts from this motor that I cannot leave soaking in parts cleaning solution over night? I know rubber parts probably shouldnt go in it...the cleaner is aluminium safe.