SureShot

I got tired of removing & reinstalling the IC over & over.
Supplies:
18 " of 2"OD flex tubing.
(2) 2"x45deg waste ells.
Grind one end each ell to size with a slight taper on the end so it will plug right in.
Assemble with duct tape.

IRISHMAN

Sweet, I've been taking my hood off and jacking the cooler up about 18'' with 2'' pipe and couplers.

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

That's a good, inexpensive idea. I cut the ends off a damaged intercooler and hooked them together.

SureShot

The TB end ends up just under 2-3/16".
The compressor end was just over 2-1/16".

For those who don't have a canabal IC.

RotaryResurrection

iTrader: (8)

I have a similar setup made of hard PVC pipe. I use it to start and adjust fresh rebuilds, when they act a fool about idling and TPS and such. Anybody with a turbo II that does their own work should have one.

NZConvertible

Mine's all PVC too. One 45deg bend, one 90deg bend, a length of pipe in between and two short stubs at each end sized to fit the stock hoses exactly. No tape needed.

elfking

what do you guys do about the vac lines hooked up to the IC with it? Just cap them off? Im hunting for vacuum leaks/wanting to set the TPS so I was going to make one of these nice tools.

But I didn't know what to do with the small hoses that were also connected to the IC... Conenct those? Or Cap them?

Thanks!

adamlewis

I adjust mine without taking the IC off. Just need a long enough screwdriver.

Wanked_FC

iTrader: (1)

I can adjust and reach my throttle screw just fine with out removing the IC.

adamlewis

Yeah. Not sure why everyone else is going through all the trouble.

I can understand if you wanted to mess with the TPS. But the throttle screw? Its right there. Just get a big screwdriver.

SideWindeRx7

wow.. you guys are ghetto to the max!

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

That about sums it up. Just because the title refers to the "Throttle Body", that doesn't necessarily mean that everyone that uses an intercooler bypass is just adjusting the plates.

HAILERS

Your on some drug if you think you can adjust the throttle stop screw, fast idle cam and cam adjusting screw..on a series four without removing the intercooler.

JonEQuest

I am going to make the same rig myself, it will be easier when I convert to a FMIC soon.

elfking

Well for those of you who *DO* remove the IC to make these adjustments, what do you do with the lines?

reboot

yeah.. what do you do with the extra hoses that mounts to the IC?

NZConvertible

Those hoses are where air enters from the ASV (power steering) and AWS (3000rpm start), which are closed when idling normally. They can just be left disconnected without any problems.

divinefist81

They sell OD tubing at Home depot? im going to check it out anyways i have to adjust the idle stop screw on a Series 5

professionalpyroman

You shouldn't have to adjust the stop screw on the throttle body if it hasn't been messed with.

divinefist81

good observation there i personally don't want to mess with it either but my TPS is operational/cleaned & BAC is adjusted too with minor improvements on idiling on its own.

professionalpyroman

Alright, let me throw out some knowledge then. The stop screw is only to stop the throttle plates from smacking into the bores of the throttle body when they close. If it is out, you can put a dial guage on the plate and bring the screw in until it just moves the dial. You want the plate to seal against the side of the bore. That is your zero reference, your datum, for you to zero your throttle position sensor at when setting your tps. If it is set at this location, you won't ever have to mess with it again. If you are adjusting the stop screw based on idle, you are chasing an operation state that may or may not fluctuate based on other intake or fuel system factors. There is a small hole in your primary throttle plate that allows a little bit of air to enter. You also have air coming in from your evap system and pcv systems. If you are having idle issues, you will need to check your vacuum system. On the turbo cars, the vacuum system isn't specifically at vacuum at all locations. Pressure test the system with an air compressor at about 8psi, and listen for leaks. It helps to have a pressure guage hooked up when doing this to see if you have a leak, or if it holds pressure. Vacuum hoses aren't the only culprits, intake gaskets can cause issues too. These castings are 30+ years old and have almost certainly warped over that time period, even to a small degree.

I'm not saying that somebody hasn't messed with that screw and it's out of adjustment, I don't know, but go through the intake system a little at a time and check pressures. Build it up from there. I started by taking some aluminum plate, covering the lower intake manifold, adding pressure and checking for leaks. Then add the upper manifold, check for leaks, and so on until you are adding pressure at the turbo and checking everything downstream. Once that is done, then your adjustments at the BAC, as well as your cold idle cam, will be more substantial.

divinefist81

Come to mention my silicone hoses are due for replacement after twenty years. i think its easier if i replace as-i-go with the vacuum hose replacement/location. so i better take before & after pics.