turbine

iTrader: (1)

please post some pics if you have any

Icemark

are yours broken that you want to do this???

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

wiring them up is the what you do not want to do, the best thing is to take off the actators and put some dw-40 in the air holes and excersize them, if you can get them working that way, i got 2 i can sell ya, pm me, i removed mine it killers your downlow so but u get a pretty good bit up top. but thats removing the sleeves intirely which means youd have to remove the UIM and the LIM, which will cost you 20 or 30 bucks for the gaskets alone...
if you removed your cat like i didnt and there just not funtional check the arcives lots of good alternative methods for opening them....

my 2 cents...

turbine

iTrader: (1)

the reason i ask is i have a flat sopt @ 4k ive grounded the **** out of the whole engine so i beleve my secondaries are operating properly and there rebuilt injectors
and i this is my first NA so i am learning
i just want to rule out the ports.
i just lubricated them so i will see how that works

tie pilot

I have been wanting to do this for a long time, as it seems that the correct terms for the 6-port induction system are often confused or misused.

see exhibit A:

Exhibit A is a picture of the lower intake manifold (LIM) situated near the engine itself. Color coding indicates locations of the auxiliary ACTUATOR, ROD, VALVE, and PORTS. You can see there is no 'sleeve', although this term gets used quite a lot. What most people mean when they say 'sleeve' is actually the VALVE in this picture. You might wonder "Well what about 'Pineapple racing sleeves'". Yes those are sleeves because they are inserted into the port and stay in a fixed position. They do not open or close to change airflow the way the the stock VALVES do. To be completely accurate, there is a sleeve inside of the LIM, and the ROD turns inside of this sleeve: It is a small brass tube and under normal circumstance, even for a cleaning of the 6PI system, should not be removed from the LIM.

Removing the ACTUATORS only requires that you unscrew the two nuts holding it on, disconnect the air hose and unfasten the ACTUATOR from the ROD. To clean the ACTUATOR I recommend silicon spray lube above any other lube, especially above any penetrating oil (WD-40, PB Blaster, etc). Silicon spray will not damage any rubber or plastic, and it dries completely unlike grease. The ACTUATOR, when working properly, should fully extend its actuating arm when it receives 1.4PSI of air into the bottom of the unit (s5 cars).


Let's look at exhibit B, a side view of the lower intake manifold (LIM):

Once the ACTUATORs are off (whether or not they're working properly) you can easily grab hold of the RODs and try to turn them by hand. If you can't turn them by hand, they are definitely too tight for the ACTUATORs to turn them. In my experience, this ROD is what seizes up to cause failure of the 6-port induction system. You may be able to free them by spraying a penetrating lube (WD-40 or PB Blaster, etc) directly at the ROD where it enters the LIM and waiting... then repeating. However, I have completely submerged a LIM with a seized ROD in liquid PB Blaster for over 2 weeks with no results. At this point, a soaking in professional strength carburetor cleaner was the ticket.

I color coded the ROD COVER PLATE to point out that you will not be able to remove those phillps screws without stripping them unless you use an impact screwdriver. Impact screwdrivers are sold at Discount Auto Parts for $20.

I hope this clears up some confusion about which part is which, and what they all do. You are in a much better boat if your ACTUATORS are toast but your RODS still turn freely, because the RODS and the VALVES are much harder to get to!