i have searched but no pics found
i need a pic of the back of a stock flywheel please


thanks
angel

 

does anyone know if its similar like in the pic being that the key is facing the same way as the flat side of the flywheel ?

 

http://mazdatrix.com/faq/flywheel.htm

 

It will say n370
Thanks Robert

 

thing is with mazdatrix site is the pic is too small to see the key part in the center of the flywheel that mounts onto the eccentric shaft

thanks for the help

 

Speaking for myself alone, I don't understand what the question is.

 

i used the zoom function... Ctrl+scroll on the mouse...

all 2nd gen tII flywheels have the key slot towards the flat side...

 

i did zoomed it but i couldnt tell (poor vision or cheap computer lol)
i was just making sure about the key slot and flat side was just like all other flywheels that way i know my front main hub and pulley are wrong for my t2

 

what does the key and balance of the flywheel have to do with the main hub and pulley?

i can understand how important it is for the front and rear counterweight to be oriented in the correct position to balance the entire engines rotating assembly...

i'm just curious where your front main hub and pulley come in to play?

 

heres a quick paint diagram on how it should all line up when on the engine
it shows where my current mark for L on my pulley is
i a have a racing beat main hub/pulley that came along with my engine so i can correct my timing .. i just wanted to use a a stock hub and pulley cause of the other
underdrive bs

 

what i was trying to get at is the fact that the key orientations on 13B's have been the same since roughly 1972...

to me it just seems that you are putting too much thought into it...

i also have the racing beat main underdrive pulley...

you have to be careful with it because it has some very advanced marks...

there's a series of 4 equal distant sequential timing marks...

the 2 closest to the passenger side of the car are the closest to stock...

anyways, good luck with it...

 

Why not install the RB hub/pulley. Then align the RB mark for TDC with the fixed pin.

Then pull the RB hub/pulley off and install the stock hub/pulleyand make a mark on the stock pulley. Done.

Just make sure you don't move the e-shaft while doing so.

I don't remember if the RB pulley has TDC as one of their marks or not. Not a big deal because the marks have to represent something and you can figure out how far the distance of one degree is by measuring the diameter of the stock pulley and coming up with that figure.

The e-shaft keyway on the front is supposed to be 90* from TDC when it faces the exhaust side of the engine from the hearsay I've read on this forum. Did I say *hearsay*?

 

the first 2 marks on the RB pulley is 0 degrees (TDC) and 10 degrees...

half way between those marks is stock timing...

hope the cats at RB don't get mad at me for sharing this

 

yup 10-0-10-20 i believe ... im gonna get this done just had to double check

thanks for helping out

 

Later if you want to sell that RB useless pulley.........I might be interested. I want to take a leap of faith that RB did the marks accuratly and want to compare their marks with the marks I've made on my pulley. Thank you.

And I know your going to do it your way, but in what I suggested in my other post, when I was suggesting putting one pulley on then the other, I was suggesting just slipping the pulley(s) on/off, NOT installing the bolt. That way the shaft won't get turned when doing the above.

 

thats the plan

 

And I know you know to depress the clutch pedal during all this taking off, putting on. I stop writing now. That said I've taken more pulley hubs off without depressing the clutch pedal that depressing the pedal. I'm lucky I guess.

 

well turns out that for some reason the key slot for the front hub is opposite the flywheel key slot ....great ... either way i aligned the front hub/pulley as if it were aligned with the flywheel key slot and using the rb pulley for correct alignment on the timing mark that i have made . thing i find weird though is that the key slot should be aligned on the same side . i have timed with the stock L mark and drove the car and seems fine but only drove for 2 miles so far on the motor about a week ago .. im not able to use the new mark because im waiting on the rtek chip to be delivered so i'll see what happens

 

A little odd. The stock pulley (not stock hub) has its four bolts offset so it'll attach to the pulley in one way. Unless one or more of the bolt holes in the pulley are distorted/augered out.

Do you remember if the keyway on the front was at 9:00 o'clock (looking into the engine or looking aft if you will) when you put the RB pulley on and was it still in the same positon when you put the stock pulley/hub on?

It could be the way the LEAD coil fires on both rotors at the same time. One spark is what they call a Wasted Spark. Sooooo even though the marks are 180* out from each other, all could be well.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/info/articles/demystifying.html

See the thumbnail I attached for what I was trying to say.

 

RB underdrive has the hub built into the pulley...

i still think you are putting too much thought into it beechwoodrx7...

 

Just saying, even if RB got the timing marks off 180*, it does not matter.

 

like in my pic above im trying to say that the key way on for the flywheel is facing exhaust side LEFT at the same time the front hub keyway is facing RIGHT
so how is that?.... if the eshaft has key slot should be on the same side not different sides ....thats what i found out when i pulled out my front hub and pulley
nothing is wrong with my pulley/hub or the rb one and yes they are accurate theyre dead on when i align each with my other t2 engine thats out

 

i just went downstairs to my garage to double check...

key slots line up... are you sure you are not missing a key, flywheel or hub side???

what if someone installed the flywheel without making sure the key slid in...

those keys can be finicky at times...

that's the only thing i can think of...

definitely keep my posted...

i'm now in suspense... lol

 

yeah i picked it up from a member on here and i did basic rebuild on it jmnr gasket kit. its funny cause i just noticed now not when it was out the car and in pieces no keys are missing every thing went well but i did noticed that its been rebuilt before
with a large streetport and has warranty badge on it . other thing two PO couldnt get it to run but i started right up

 

My apology. I didn't catch on to what you were saying. I looked at a e-shat just now and like you say, the keys are on the same side. It's something I've never had a reason to look at or notice.

Maybe earlier series e-shafts were made keyways on opposite sides. That's about all I can figure out. Like a first gen or????? It'd take someone with a lot of past experience to know about that.

E-shaft could be broken in half! humor

What is the number on the flywheel. It's located on the fwd side of the flywheel. I know that has zip to do with the location of the keyway on the e-shaft, but might be a clue as to what engine the e-shaft came from.

Makes me wonder if the balance of the engine would be right or not?