Pic Request: Cruise Control
No rotary, no problems?
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,567
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From: Dubuque, IA
The cruise control actuator and cold start assist use the same bracket. It bolts onto the inner fender near the charcoal canister(obviously). I removed my cold start assist and used a cut-off tool to cut the bracket down so that I didn't have all the extra mounting places for the cold start assist and to make it look better. The problem I am having with my cruise control now is that the cable seems to be too long and that I am missing another bracket of some type that should bolt onto the throttle body. Does anyone have pictures of how the cable connects to the TB and if there is a bracket I'm missing?
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
Just in case someone missed it, the MYBABY has a non turbo car which has a vacuum assisted actuator. The turbo cars have an electric acutator. And looking at the parts fische mentioned above, the brkts are different imho.
HAILERS
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 20,563
Likes: 27
From: FORT WORTH, TEXAS,USA
I went back and looked at the parts fische online and although they show two different bkts, there is but one part number for them 66-330B and then break that down into a Calif number and a Fed number. One looks shorter but that shouldn't matter.
No rotary, no problems?
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,567
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From: Dubuque, IA
Does the parts fische show another bracket by chance besides the one that supports the CC actuator? I'm thinking there's gotta be a bracket that I'm missing that attaches to the TB somehow and helps support the cable, just like the throttle cable bracket on the TB. There's way too much slack in the cable for there to not be a bracket there somewhere.
Winter sucks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,083
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From: Newberg, Oregon
Does the parts fische show another bracket by chance besides the one that supports the CC actuator? I'm thinking there's gotta be a bracket that I'm missing that attaches to the TB somehow and helps support the cable, just like the throttle cable bracket on the TB. There's way too much slack in the cable for there to not be a bracket there somewhere.
Rotary Freak
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,718
Likes: 1
From: Ames, IA
Turbo cruse control, but the mounting is the same for the vacuum one.
Cold start bracket is below - you can see they share the bolt holes.
The top half of how it mounts.
Another shot.
Cable routing - it's too long, I just ziptied it out of the way.
Not a great shot, but this is the bracket it connects to at the other end, on top of the (disconnected) thermowax assembly.
-=Russ=-
Cold start bracket is below - you can see they share the bolt holes.
The top half of how it mounts.
Another shot.
Cable routing - it's too long, I just ziptied it out of the way.
Not a great shot, but this is the bracket it connects to at the other end, on top of the (disconnected) thermowax assembly.
-=Russ=-
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 25,581
Likes: 136
From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
If it helps,I know that my N/A already had a place for the Cruise cable. at the Throttle body.Even though it didn't come with it.And Yes the Bracket for the Cold Start Assist has Another small piece on it to Bolt down the Cruise control.That Is If the car came With Cruise...you may also need a Relay that is Located on the Gas pedal..(I'm still working on installing My Cruise and it Hasn't been Operational.. Yet!..)
Rotary Freak
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 2,718
Likes: 1
From: Ames, IA
My 88SE had no cruise control, but was fully wired/switched for it.
Add the control lever in the dash, the cruise computer (plugs into the wiring harness above the driver's left foot), and the actuator in the engine bay, hook up the cable (I had the bracket and spare spot for it on the throttle body shaft), and it worked.
-=Russ=-
Add the control lever in the dash, the cruise computer (plugs into the wiring harness above the driver's left foot), and the actuator in the engine bay, hook up the cable (I had the bracket and spare spot for it on the throttle body shaft), and it worked.
-=Russ=-
Winter sucks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,083
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From: Newberg, Oregon
No rotary, no problems?
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
From: Dubuque, IA
From what I can see in the pictures it doesn't seem like the bracket is attached to anything except for the TB with 2 screws. I wasn't sure if it was integrated into a piece of the thermowax or what. Thanks for the help. 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 6,096
Likes: 9
From: So Cal where the OC/LA/SB counties meet
I have a S4 vert with both cold start and cruise control. Different mounting holes.
Get the correct brackets, save the brain damage.
Also, the cruise control brain is different for an electric (TII type) actuator than a vacume (NA type) actuator. Make sure you have a matched set. There is a thread of mine on this actuator subject in this forum.
There is also a cruise defeat switch on both the clutch and brake pedal arms you'll need to install for the system to work properly.
I suggest you download the wiring schematic from a factory manual to be sure you have everything.
Get the correct brackets, save the brain damage.
Also, the cruise control brain is different for an electric (TII type) actuator than a vacume (NA type) actuator. Make sure you have a matched set. There is a thread of mine on this actuator subject in this forum.
There is also a cruise defeat switch on both the clutch and brake pedal arms you'll need to install for the system to work properly.
I suggest you download the wiring schematic from a factory manual to be sure you have everything.
Last edited by HOZZMANRX7; Jul 11, 2007 at 02:29 AM.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,219
Likes: 3
From: Murfreesboro, TN
I have a S4 vert with both cold start and cruise control. Different mounting holes.
Get the correct brackets, save the brain damage.
Also, the cruise control brain is different for an electric (TII type) actuator than a vacume (NA type) actuator. Make sure you have a matched set. There is a thread of mine on this actuator subject in this forum.
There is also a cruise defeat switch on both the clutch and brake pedal arms you'll need to install for the system to work properly.
I suggest you download the wiring schematic from a factory manual to be sure you have everything.
Get the correct brackets, save the brain damage.
Also, the cruise control brain is different for an electric (TII type) actuator than a vacume (NA type) actuator. Make sure you have a matched set. There is a thread of mine on this actuator subject in this forum.
There is also a cruise defeat switch on both the clutch and brake pedal arms you'll need to install for the system to work properly.
I suggest you download the wiring schematic from a factory manual to be sure you have everything.
From my understanding the bracket I have does go where I was thinking, but it's the cold start bracket so it does me no good. The cruise control bracket goes under that (or over, w/e) in stock form. However, for my application I would just bolt it in since I don't have the cold start bottle.
Now, I'd also need the switch (plugged in) and would need to plug in the computer (plugged in). You're (HOZZ) saying I also need a switch on the clutch and brake pedal? Are those there stock or would I need to put them in?
Everything I've read about putting CC in just says you need the actuator, switch, and have to plug in the computer.
Every time I think it gets cleared up I get even more confused...
I don't think there are separate switches needed...from the FSM it looks like the CC computer uses the stock brake light switch and the stock clutch interlock switch for those signals.
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,219
Likes: 3
From: Murfreesboro, TN
IIRC, the clutch interlock switch the same one that disabled the starter if it's not pushed. If so, I don't think I have one because I have an '86. Then again I don't know why I'd push in the clutch instead of braking at that speed.
Yeah, that's the one.
I have a S5 and am not sure about how a S4 works.
Actually, I'm not terribly certain how a S5 works either but have my fingers crossed it's just plug-n-play...will find out when my bracket arrives (compliments of micaheli- thanks, dude!).
I have a S5 and am not sure about how a S4 works.
Actually, I'm not terribly certain how a S5 works either but have my fingers crossed it's just plug-n-play...will find out when my bracket arrives (compliments of micaheli- thanks, dude!).
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,219
Likes: 3
From: Murfreesboro, TN
"Cruise actuator/sub zero bracket: This is located in the engine bay on the passenger side by the windshield. It is held on by three bolts. Remove them and save them. Now disconnect the vacuum hose from the manifold and unclip the cable from the throttle body. After you disconnect the wiring harness, it lifts right out. At this time, also remove the mounting bracket from the sub zero starting unit. The sub zero tank just slides right off and the bracket comes off with two bolts. Save the bolts. The image below shows the location of the servo."
Also, I was under the impression that all 7's came with the cruise control computer, but some didn't come with the actuator/switch. Or am I just crazy?
On the subject of write up's (although Aaron's pretty much covers it), here's another I found.
Adding Cruise Control (Ken)
To install cruise where there is none, you really only need three things.
# 1. instrument panel switch
1. actuator motor
2. control unit
The pieces I speak of are Mazda originals, taken from a junkyard, not new
parts or some aftermarket contraption. l of the wiring for these parts exists
on the car already. It is a simple "plug and play" procedure to hook
everything up.
The actuator is located on top of the cold-start-assist reservoir. When you
get all the parts from the junkyard, be sure to get the bracket that mounts
the actuator to the firewall (non-cruise equipped cars do not have the
bracket). I tapped a capped-off vacuum port above the exhaust manifold as a
source for the actuator (after all the scrounging, I have come to believe that
turbo cars use an all-electric actuator). Manifold vacuum is what pulls on the
throttle cable to manipulate the throttle. The logic unit directs the actuator
in this operation. Four wires attach to the actuator, in a plug which is
already there and waiting for installation.
The control unit is attached to the kick panel next to the "cpu." (close to
the "dead" pedal), two nuts are needed to hold it in place on the studs which
are already there. A thirteen-wire connector is plugged in to the control
unit. One of these wires goes to a speed sensor on the back of the
speedometer, but it is already hooked up at that end.
The switch goes in the pod surrounding the gauges, next to the wiper switch
(where the "blank" spot is). Contrary to what I have heard others say on the
net, you DO NOT have to remove the steering wheel to get this piece off.
Again, the wires are there and waiting.
I took switches for the brake and clutch pedals, although I discovered after
installation that my brake switch is already hooked up. I haven't looked into
the clutch switch yet (and doubt if I will), no one that drives my car is
crazy enough to push in the clutch with the cruise on. :-)
I learned more about the way the control unit operates the actuator; anyone
interested can drop me a line. All the parts cost me a total of $26.00 (!)
with the exception of a new throttle cable I had to buy from Mazda ($31.00)
because the people that pulled the motor from the RX-7 in the junkyard cut the
cable.
To install cruise where there is none, you really only need three things.
# 1. instrument panel switch
1. actuator motor
2. control unit
The pieces I speak of are Mazda originals, taken from a junkyard, not new
parts or some aftermarket contraption. l of the wiring for these parts exists
on the car already. It is a simple "plug and play" procedure to hook
everything up.
The actuator is located on top of the cold-start-assist reservoir. When you
get all the parts from the junkyard, be sure to get the bracket that mounts
the actuator to the firewall (non-cruise equipped cars do not have the
bracket). I tapped a capped-off vacuum port above the exhaust manifold as a
source for the actuator (after all the scrounging, I have come to believe that
turbo cars use an all-electric actuator). Manifold vacuum is what pulls on the
throttle cable to manipulate the throttle. The logic unit directs the actuator
in this operation. Four wires attach to the actuator, in a plug which is
already there and waiting for installation.
The control unit is attached to the kick panel next to the "cpu." (close to
the "dead" pedal), two nuts are needed to hold it in place on the studs which
are already there. A thirteen-wire connector is plugged in to the control
unit. One of these wires goes to a speed sensor on the back of the
speedometer, but it is already hooked up at that end.
The switch goes in the pod surrounding the gauges, next to the wiper switch
(where the "blank" spot is). Contrary to what I have heard others say on the
net, you DO NOT have to remove the steering wheel to get this piece off.
Again, the wires are there and waiting.
I took switches for the brake and clutch pedals, although I discovered after
installation that my brake switch is already hooked up. I haven't looked into
the clutch switch yet (and doubt if I will), no one that drives my car is
crazy enough to push in the clutch with the cruise on. :-)
I learned more about the way the control unit operates the actuator; anyone
interested can drop me a line. All the parts cost me a total of $26.00 (!)
with the exception of a new throttle cable I had to buy from Mazda ($31.00)
because the people that pulled the motor from the RX-7 in the junkyard cut the
cable.
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 29,798
Likes: 128
From: London, Ontario, Canada
Also, I was under the impression that all 7's came with the cruise control computer, but some didn't come with the actuator/switch. Or am I just crazy?
Thread Starter
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 4,219
Likes: 3
From: Murfreesboro, TN
Is that true for the power steering computer?
No rotary, no problems?
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,567
Likes: 0
From: Dubuque, IA
What Aaron is trying to say is that there's 2 brackets. One is for the cars that came without CC that just holds the sub zero start assist bottle, and one is for the cars that came with CC that holds the sub zero start assist bottle and the CC actuator. When they were talking about the switches hooked up to the clutch and brake systems, they're talking about the switches that disengage the CC when the pedals are pushed in. The only thing I'm missing is that bracket that goes near the thermowax system crap.
