coldfire

iTrader: (1)

I am swapping my stock open diff to an LSD. The only thing that stands in the way of LSD happiness, are the three damn front diff mount nuts. i can barely get a wrench on them (the lower one towards the rear is the worst), but i can't get enough leverage or anything to break those nuts off (i am guessing they are siezed pretty good after all these years).

I have seen that people have actually removed the diff without dropping the subframe, so i am wondering, how the hell did you get these nuts off? i have followed the instructions in the haynes manual, and also in this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generation-specific-1986-1992-17/walkthrough-na-differential-removal-522066/

i think i need to invent some screwed up tool so i can get enough leverage on the nut....

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

Im not sure how you would get to thoes with the subframe on. Can you get to them from the front? maby put a stubby wrench on them and pry on the closed end with a bar however you can reach it?

May i ask why your trying to swap the rear end without droping the subframe? I only ask because droping a rear subframe is so easy

arkady151

iTrader: (15)

It will probably be faster to just drop the subframe. I was going to just drop the lsd but it was just a huge bitch , couldent get to stuff , put enough pressure on it. Dropping the subframe is easier than it seems, unhook the driveshaft which is 4 bolts , unbolt the struts , front bolts and then rear bolts and the sublink . I think thats basically it .

I can probably do the whole procedure in about 10-15 minutes easily , probably faster with air tools. And I spent like 2 hours trying to unfuck the diff with the subframe still on there. Oh and maybe get a tranny jack or borrow one. It makes lowering the whole thing so much easier than using a regular jack since it provides more area for it to sit on and not fall off because its not exactly light.

NOPR

you have to remove those stupid safety strap things on the front bolts also, and disconnect the brakes somehow (Undo a line, take off the caliper). thats it though! its super easy! putting back in isnt hard either once you get it lined up.

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

i take off the caliper and tie it to a spring or jam it on there so it doent fall

also i use 2 jacks, one under the diff and one under the cradle becaues its my expeirence that sometime it will drop at an angle and bind up. not always necesary but i do it by habbit now.

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

well, i'm trying to not remove the subframe because apparently it can be done without having to. but, now that i have actually started doing this, that might not be so feasible (maybe if the bolts weren't siezed on there).

i have also heard of people just unbolting and "dropping" the subframe a few inches on the drivers side...not too sure what that is supposed to mean.

so if i remove the subframe, the easiest way is to unbolt the strut, and take the WHOLE thing out (hubs and all)? why not disconnect the trailing arms and lateral links? is that harder?

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

The way i do it is

unbolt the driveshaft
Unbolt the bottem bolt of the struts
Unbolt and hang the brake calipers on the springs
Unbolt the lateral link from the subframe
unbolt the bottem bolt of the swaybar end link
unbolt the lil bolts that hold on the subframe brackets to the body

then just support the subframe and if you want to the diff, and unbolt the 2 diff mounts and 2 subframe mounts

i dont think i forgot anything

its very easy to do with minimal tools and on a set of jackstands

this is what you should end up with on the ground (along with the rotors n such still on the hubs, no need to pull em)



-Jacob

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

ok, that makes sense. doesn't seem to complicated, just a decent bit of work and moving it around and what not.

just two more questions:
"Unbolt the lateral link from the subframe", i am assuming you mean the vertical sub frame link?


and where do people usually put jackstands under without the subframe?

CrackHeadMel

iTrader: (2)

yeah thats what i ment

and its really not that much work, you will be amazed how quick it relly comes out

its what, 13 bolts?

I put the jackstands on the frame rail things, or on the rockers

EDIT 17bolts if you count the driveshaft

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

yeah, i already have the driveshaft, driveaxles, rear diff mount, and sub frame link nuts unbolted. so, just the strut, sway bar, and front subframe mount bolts to go. oh, and i guess taking off the wheels and brake calipers. the hardest part is just lowering it and also putting it back up i guess. not exactly a small object to manouver around.

anyyways, thanks for the info. i'll start doing this, and hopefully nothing bad happens...

spot_skater

Get a short 9/16" wrench. Take your time.

Busted7

its been years but seems if you drop front two cradel bolts it makes it possible to get long extension and socket on the bolts. but i agree pulling the whole cradel is easy to get out but nice to have help getting it back in. good luck!

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

ok, i can get the wrench on the nuts....but, how did you get enough leverage/space to get the nut turning?

in any case, i will be dropping the subframe tommorow. everything is off now except the front subframe mounts and struts.
exhaust took a bit of time for some reason, and i realized i had to unbolt the caliper also.

S2pid_triangles

Holy **** you people are making this difficult...i did the swap twice. you don't have to remove the calipers at all or the sway bar mounts. just drop the subframe down about 5-8 inches and use an airwrench and exstention to get the three bolts in the front mount out. i replaced the dif and installed the mazdatrix competition dif mount. having a single aftermarket exhaust would probably help alot. exhuast gets in the way the most if thats out of the way a very easy install.

why is someone suggesting using standard size tools on a metric car? don't care if its a similar size.

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

how are you dropping the subframe 5-8 inches? you still have to unbolt pretty much everything.

and yeah, i just ignored the non-metric comment...same way we are all using the term "sway bar" when that is technically wrong.

Sideways7

iTrader: (7)

And technically they aren't struts of shocks, they're dampers. We all know what people are talking about, though. Also. theres nothing wrong with using a standard wrench if its the exact right size. I needed some metric socket once, but they didn't have it. I ended up using a 3/4 because its the exact same size.
This thread is actually starting to look like archive material. Its got some very helpful info that will aid in my dropping the subframe to replace the diff mounts.

S2pid_triangles

this was my main point....ive done the swap twice and have never removed calipers or swaybar mounts. yes you do need to remove all the bolts that are attached to the dif to the axles(14mm) the bolts to the driveshaft(14mm) i thought those were a given. then the vertical link(two 17mm wrenches)and yes the bolts to the subframe.(21mm and 12 or 14mm i forget) then the rear diff mounts (17mm) if the car is jacked up you should be able to lets down on the subframe if its supported or just let that thing drop. once its down impact wrench and an exstention (17mm) and you should have it out.


as i said before the stock exhaust was the only thing actually getting in the way.i'll be doing a third swap just got a new FC if it runs it will be built as a full on drift car and i'll do the swap again if i come across anything i will repost.

spot_skater

Ignore me if you want, but I'm not the one having trouble taking my rear end out, am I?

I mean it's not like I can do it in a half hour to forty five minutes or anything. Time includes removing exhaust, driveshaft, and half shafts.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=522066

EDIT: After re-reading my walkthrough, it was an 11/16" wrench.

S2pid_triangles

i wasnt directing anything at you senor just relax.....and i don't have any reason to have standard tools around my house. it just sounds weird even hearing someone talk about standard tools.

spot_skater

Ok. I know what you mean about using standard tools. I prefer metric, personally... but that's just what I used to get it done. It worked well, and it saved me time cause I didn't have a short-length 14mm(??) wrench to do it.

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

so yeah, things to do:

- find a friend to help you out, preferably someone who has worked on cars before
- drop the subframe! that's all there is to it.
- liquid wrench/PB blaster
- impact gun/wrench

yup yup. going to finish torque specing everything, and go out tommorow to see if i can lay down two even strips of rubber, haha...

spot_skater

Dude that thing looks brand new!!

I hope all your mounts are good. The ones on the cover (rear mounts) from both of my covers were dry rotted. When I went to launch I broke an axle (twice, after swapping covers) and tore 3 mounts. Good luck!!

coldfire

iTrader: (1)

yeah, it's amazing what a wire brush, degreaser, and some nice high-heat spray paint can do

you can also see my new Mazdatrix adjustable subframe link in that pic.

yup, i inspected all the mounts. they were all in decent condition. i can get spare axels for cheap anyways, so time will tell. if something does break, i am switching over to some Mazda comp mounts.