Tigersgyle789

is there a way to pass smog with all the emissions stuff removed, other than the alcohol trick? I'm getting tired looking for this one part that goes to the egr valve and plugs up to the o2 sensor. I think its called an emissions harness. BTW does anybody have one of those that might wanna sell it to me?

Turbonut

iTrader: (1)

I say no way. You need the cat and air pump, albeit belt driven or electric to complete the burning cycle.

turbine

iTrader: (1)

im not shure if this will work on a rotary but try to unplug the injector to the rear rotor
and disconect your engine light
ive done this for some one with a jdm b16 in a civic that had twice the hydrocarbons aloud and he passed no problem he also had a safc and i turned that down as well
all your trying to do is reduce the parts per million

Pinfield357

do that and youll have one hell of a time keeping the car running for the test

casio

i dont think the engine light matters unless the car is 96+ (OBD2; 95+ in cali??).
i dont know about that injector trick. its damn hard to get to the injector/injector plug. i cant imagine getting the car to the place. i've never driven on one (good) rotor.

i'm think i'm about to post my failed emissions results as a new thread. i like to see what people do to legally pass, what makes how much difference, etc. hopefully i'll pass and can say what i have.

Tigersgyle789

I think i'll try to test but i'll most likely fail. Im missing the thing that connects to the EGR valve and the thing that connects to the o2 sensor, but its not throwing any codes. the light doesnt come on. My old cat was old, so i replaced it with a high flow one. other than that.. my car is completely stock. what does that valve do anyways?

casio

i'm sure you can pass without a properly functioning EGR.
what are you talking about with the O2 sensor? only thing that connects to it is a wire.
does your check engine light work? have you tried pulling codes? mine is on sometimes and sometimes its not. if i turn the key into the 'on' position, but dont start the car, the light is sometimes on and sometimes isnt. i still havent tried to pull codes. guess i should.

full-cruise

iTrader: (5)

hey this is what you want to do. iv tried it and it worked for me in the grate keystone state :::

"I first saw this idea used a few years ago by "BDC" (2nd gen guru) and have since seen it used a few times.



If you have ripped your stock air pump, AVC, vac rack etc. out. But still have to pass emissions testing. You can do 2 things. First is to mount the stock air pump back into the car. Then run a pipe straight to the cat from the pump. If the car is in good condition and would pass with the stock stuff. It shouldn't have any problem passing this way. It's probably even going to give lower readings then stock. The two problems with this way is 1, if you have a big aftermarket turbo, the stock air pump might not fit back in. 2, you can't drive very long this way without ruining the cat. You pretty much need to hook it up, drive to the test, drive home and unhook it. Which is kind of a pain in the but.

The 2nd way is to use a smog pump from a newer corvette (93+). I think the Camaro and trans am might be the same. The pump has an air inlet, outlet, and 3 wires. Not rocket science. The outlet hose goes to the cat. The inlet line I stuck a breather filter onto. It has 3 wires, red, orange, and black. Give power to both the orange and red at the same time (splice together) and ground the black. You will want a relay as this thing draws over 10 amps.

I crammed mine under the cruise box, between the charcoal can and ABS. I was surprised I could get it in there! It's not too big.

I ran a 10 gauge fused power wire from the battery to a standard 12V relay prong 30. Power out to the air pump (orange and red on pump) on prong 87. I took switched 12v from the wiper harness to prong 86. And prong 85 goes to a 2 wire switch in the car, the other side is grounded.. And Also ground the pump.

The "out" of the air pump is 5/8" but the inlet of the stock split air pipe is 1/2". I bought some 5/8" and 1/2" heater hose. As well as a plastic 5/8" to 1/2" adapter that I found at a local store. The brand "help" makes lots of odds and ends like this. I ran only a few inches of the 5/8" before converting to 1/2. I connected the 1/2" heater hose to the metal split air pipe right below the firewall. Just remove the stock rubber hose and clamp this one on. Don't connect the heater hose directly to the cat!!! I'm pretty sure it'll just melt pretty fast.



By hooking it up this way. The pump will shut off when ever the car is off. While the car is running it's turned on and off via the switch. I have been told by a few people the pump should not be run for more then 10-15 mins at a time as it'll burn itself out. So be carefull



I just recently passed my local emissions with a 3" magnaflow (carsound) cat in my full RB exhaust, and this hooked up to it."

now i found this on the net and tried it out and passed threw. the pump didnt burn out on me during the test so i cant say much on that but with these kinda things its worth that extra shot to keep these cars on the road.. good luck if you try this and let us know how you make out with this as well.

pontious

Redirected the airpump straight to the cat.

casio

full cruise, nice write up.
my predicament has been hooking my smog pump to my cat. the state my car is in now, it would be like you said; pipe/hose from the air pump straight to the cat. i was contemplating ordering the pipe which bolts to the factory cat (aftermarket cat, such as mine, it needs to be welded to). problem with this is that its, well, welded to the cat. the cat, as it is now, has the nipple with a cap on it. if i were to weld the pipe on and not run the air pump, i'd have to plug the hose way up in my engine bay. not really a big deal, but it'd be a hose from my cat to my engine bay with no purpose but to pass emissions.

so, i'm going to read your little write-up better and not breeze through. bdc recommended the heater hose to me, but you actually have me a few measurements to deal with. my biggest problem was connecting the air source (pipe/hose) to the 1000+ degree cat. thanks for the write up.
also, if you could, check out the thread i started "Failed Emissions; A Rotary Adventure." it needs love, too.

casio

well, problem i have is that i dont have the stock split-air pipe to the cat. its $73.80 from the dealership. is there no other way around this?? maybe a trip to the junkyard...?
also, if there were a way around this, it may be best for other's to know that the stock split air pipe has a check valve for any exhaust which may, somehow, try to redirect itself upstream.
and the stock rubber hose is a little over $20. i believe it connects to the ACV which connects to the split air pipe. am i way off on this? either way, i dont think i have that anymore.

Tigersgyle789

Well, my o2 sensor is screwed into the downpipe, but the wire on the back of it is cut off. does this affect my smogging ability? also, my check engine light doesn't work because when you turn the key to the on position, w/out starting it, all the lights in the dash should light up, but the check engine light doesn't show up. I think the previous owner just pulled the fuse because some fuses in the little box where my pedals are, are missing. I'm missing the little cover to my fuses too, doesn anybody have a little diagram of where things go down there so i can plug stuff back in?

Tigersgyle789

also, do you think i can pass if all my o2 stuff is plugged in, and my cat is new, and my exhaust is stock, but my check engine light fuse is unplugged?? or do they have a way of finding that code somehow by plugging something in?