Slow Rotor

So I recently purchased an 87 tII. Trying to get it ready for roadworthy and the passenger window won't work. When i got the car I instantly thought it was the switch (drivers side) so I swapped it with a known working one from my s5. Window wont work. Jumped power to the motor and it does work.

There anything I'm missing before I start trying to find a broken wire?? Have done a bit of a search but couldn't find much more then a million people saying the switch.

Also I have turned the power on to the passenger window at the drivers side switch as well.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The Black/Blue wire at the passenger switch needs to have voltage on it when power switch at the driver side switch has been turned to on to allow the passenger side to work. Does the B/L wire have voltage in this situation? And key needs to be turned to on.

Slow Rotor

Yes it does. And I just cleaned all the terminals in the drivers side switch, incase this car somehow burnt it out but no change. Whats next to check

satch

iTrader: (1)

If the window is currently in the up position then when the window is asked to go down the Green wire in the passenger switch should have voltage on it and the Red wire in the passenger switch should have a ground on it. To move the window upwards the above would be just the opposite as Red gets voltage and Green then gets the ground.

Lets say you check for voltage on the Green wire as you attempt to get the passenger window to go down and it has voltage but the window refuses to go down. Then take a jumper wire to the Red wire in the switch and ground it to a suitable ground. Just any piece of metal will not serve as a proper ground.

Slow Rotor

Ok so the green wire at the pass window switch plug has voltage but the plug at the motor doesnt. Gimme 2 secs will check for continuity

Slow Rotor

Yep with the switch down the green/white wire at the pass window plug gets voltage but nothing else does. What now lol

satch

iTrader: (1)

Disconnect the two wire plug to the motor and check for voltage on the G/W wire when you try to get the passenger window to go down. In the FSM it indicates the wire to be Green, but sometimes the manual is in error or they change the color from year to year within the same model.

EDIT:
I missed one of your posts. So you have voltage at the plug but not at the motor. If this is correct then jumper a wire from the Green wire at the passenger plug to the motor plug and try to get the window to go down. And what were the results of the continuity test?

Slow Rotor

Ok well a bit of testing then shown that

I get voltage to the green wire on the pass switch plug with drivers side up
I get voltage to the black/blue wire on the pass window switch plug with drivers side down.

I jumped a wire between the 2 green wires on the pass window switch plug, and the window wouldn't move but I then earthed out the red wire on the back of the window motor plug and the window went down.

Also my pass window switch is broken but plugged in the window still wont move. I was under the impression both windows should work on the drivers side even with the pass side unplugged anyway. But it seems there is an open circut here somehow.

Sorry if thats hard to understand, im a sheety not a boffin lol.

satch

iTrader: (1)

The motor requires voltage on one wire but a ground on the other. The driver switch is responsible for the grounds for both sides (window switches). So if you're not getting a proper ground at the passenger motor it could be a function of the driver switch not doing its job in that regard.

And over here in the States, boffing means to screw!

Slow Rotor

But if the drivers side switch had some sort of bad ground would that not cause the drivers window not to work? And sorry boffin is more of an aircraft term, its what we refer to the avionics guys as. Although I had never heard of the term boffing until then.

In saying that I have to jump the wires on the pass window plug to get voltage to the motor plug o_O wtf is going on here.

P.s. thanks for your help satch im in over my head here

satch

iTrader: (1)

One other thing. When I was mentioning the Green wire and the Red wire I think you mentioned the Green/White wire earier. In looking at the FSM the plug to the passenger switch has five wires and one of them is Green/White but that wire connects the passenger switch to the driver switch and this is not the wires I was talking about. The Green wire and the Red wire runs from the passenger switch to the passenger motor while the G/W wire and R/W wire in addition to the Black/Blue wire connect the driver switch to the passenger switch. So if you did something to the G/W wire you shouldn't have.

Slow Rotor

Ah well I have been using the drivers side switch to attempt to move the window as my pass window switch got dropped and is broken.

But those wires are getting voltage so it's sending it's signal to the plug and the pass window switch isnt sending the signal to the motor

Does this mean i just need a new pass window switch you think?

I haven't modified any of the wires or anything

satch

iTrader: (1)

You're doing fine. To answer your questions, There is a different set of relays that provide the ground for the driver window and a different set for the passenger side in the same driver switch. Also, the wires that carry the ground from the driver switch to the passenger switch might be problematic. The R/W wire and the G/W wire carry the ground signal from the driver switch to the passenger switch.

To get voltage to the passenger motor you said you have to jumper a wire. You should have had to jump the Green wire at the passenger switch to the Green wire at the passenger motor. Earlier you said that there was voltage on the Green wire at the passenger switch but not at the motor. If this is correct then the wire between the two is damaged or there's something going on at the motor plug. If you checked for voltage at the backside of the motor plug and it did not have voltage when trying to get the window to go down then the wire is the problem.

Watch a Tom Cruise movie called Risky Business as it is very funny plus it uses the term "boffing."

Slow Rotor

Well there is 2 green wires at the back of the pass window switch plug. I jumped these 2 together and got 12v at the motor plug on the green wire while the drivers side switch was in the "up" position

satch

iTrader: (1)

Let me see if I got this straight. Your driver switch is in the driver arm rest and you have no passenger switch. Is this correct?

If this is the case then the Black/Blue wire by where the passenger switch is can be connected to the Green wire that runs to the passenger motor and the Red wire to the motor would need a ground and if it did then the window would go down. Place the Black/Blue wire to the Red wire and ground the Green to the passenger motor and the window goes up. And why didn't you say you didn't have the passenger switch? This info would have helped a whole bunch don't you think.

Slow Rotor

Also where are the relays your talking about? Up behind the front bar with the rest of them?

satch

iTrader: (1)

How many wires do you have at the passenger plug?

satch

iTrader: (1)

Located inside the switches. Both driver and passenger switch.

satch

iTrader: (1)

I should have posted this earlier.

Slow Rotor

I sort of have a passenger window switch. The plug, and circut board out of the switch is currently plugged in. So I still sort of have it, just couldn't be operated off the switch. My cars sitting there with both door trims off as I'm trying to sort this out.

I have 5 wires coming off the plug

satch

iTrader: (1)

Okay. If you had the passenger switch then the Red wire would receive a ground from the Red/White wire and the Green wire at the passenger switch plug would receive voltage from the Black/Blue wire and the window goes down. If the passenger switch was used to make the window go up then the Red wire gets voltage from the Black/Blue wire and the Green wire gets the ground from the Green/White wire. Look at the diagram I provided to make sense out of what I said.


Now if the driver switch were to be used to control the passenger window it would work like this. To make the window go down the voltage goes from the Green/White wire from the driver switch to the Green wire that runs to the motor and the Red/White wire at the driver switch takes the ground and passes it to the Red wire. The window goes up when the driver switch is used by voltage going from the R/W wire to Red and at the same time the G/W wire takes the ground and passes it onto the Green wire. Again, check the wiring diagram.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

Could it be different on his presumably right hand drive car?

satch

iTrader: (1)

His passenger side would just be on the opposite side compared to ours, I would expect but other than that it should be the same. The diagram I posted should answer that though.

Slow Rotor

Yeah im 99% sure my pass side is just on the opposite side of the car. I ran a us spec window switch in my s5 for a while, all it did was make my switches in the wrong spot. So if the drivers switch is say doing the talking directly to the passenger motor, does this mean that the passenger switch is irrelevant, or do I still need one plugged in for this to work?

satch

iTrader: (1)

The passenger switch takes the wires from the driver switch and passes them onto the motor so it is necessary to have the passengers switch. Just looking at the diagram in addition to my explanation of how it works would tell you that.


EDIT: If you connected the R/W to Red and G/W to Green it would bypass the passenger switch but the passenger would not be able to control the window as only the driver would so jumper R/W to Red and G/W to Green at the passenger plug and try to control the passenger window from the driver side switch.