2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Paint Code For 10th AE?

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Old May 25, 2007 | 10:23 AM
  #1  
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Paint Code For 10th AE?

i have a 10th an rx7 but it needs to spray over cud sum1 give me the paint code please.
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:05 AM
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The stock paint code for a 10th AE is UC.
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:13 AM
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Check inside the driver side door.
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:16 AM
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A little searching never hurts anybody.

86-88
Artic Silver Metallic - J5
Tornado Silver Metallic - K8
Brilliant Black - PZ
Sunrise Red - RH
Crystal White - UC
Dover White - WU
Noble White - WY
Satin Gold Metallic - 1A
Claret Metallic - 2H
Royal Maroon Metallic - 3A
Sapphire Blue Metallic - 5A
True Red - NP

89-92
Brilliant Black - PZ
Blaze Red - SQ
Crystal White - UC
Winning Silver Metallic - 1F
Shadow Silver Metallic - 3G
Harbor Blue Metallic - 5D
Brave Blue MC - 5N
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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It's actually in the FAQ. However, if you're not sure what color your car is in general (which white for instance) you can also look on the passenger side firewall. There should be a metal plate that has your VIN and paint code.
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:21 AM
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saphire blue...aka "Ive been in the sun way too long" blue. i know this becasue i have one
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Old May 25, 2007 | 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by helghast7
saphire blue...aka "Ive been in the sun way too long" blue. i know this becasue i have one
Sapphire Blue Metallic. 5A > all.
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Old May 25, 2007 | 12:15 PM
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PZ FTW! Mine WAS UC.... but, that came off with compressed air.... So.. black it is...

On your 10AE, are you going to aeresol/rattle can it? Or are you doing it the right way with body prep and spray booth?
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Old May 25, 2007 | 12:21 PM
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definately the right way body prep n spray booth,makes sense to do it right the 1st time around....u said ur paint came of with compressed air? wat do u mean by that.the one i bought the piant is strippin off in most places so im wondering if its jus a thing for the paint to get of them easily
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Old May 25, 2007 | 12:48 PM
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Factory UC is terrible... I think its the primer though.. paint doesn't stick to it. If your paint is flaking off, it will only get worse. I would take the entire car to bare metal and get rid of that shitty primer. You might be able to just lightly sand the existing primer and feather it where its chipped... but, with just an air-compressor, I blew off 30% of my entire cars paint. I used a 3000psi pressure washer to do the next 30%, and 40% or so was left on and wouldn't come off. I'm going to bare metal right now because I don't trust the primer at all. I would rather use a more coarse grit and take everything off to do it the right way than risk it happening again and take all that time to feather up to the paint..... and being careful to not break through the primer and make waves/dips/etc...

But yea man... Factory UC sucked. even at like 50mph.. if I flipped up my headlights, paint would flake off of them. At like 60-65, small flakes would flake off my car, 70-85 - large sheets (6-10" big) would come off.. very insane. I'll be glad to get rid of this.

Obviously newer UC from a paint supplier will be fine, so don't get discouraged on color, expecially with a 10AE.
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Old May 25, 2007 | 01:01 PM
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ppg code is 90629 for uc
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Old May 25, 2007 | 01:05 PM
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for the love of god, please type English in the future. Contractions, abbreviations and bad grammar just make your posts extremely hard to read.
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Old May 25, 2007 | 05:21 PM
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elkin6 thanks for that ppg code....what other color do you people think would suit
the 10ae. i personal think that uc is a great color but what do u people think..i agree that it seems that the primer was not really of great quality.im disgusted by seeing the paitn strippin of.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 06:35 AM
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go with white but you need to go all the way down to metal to get all the old primer off that is what i'm doing
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by elkin6
go with white but you need to go all the way down to metal to get all the old primer off that is what i'm doing
Same here. Shitty OEM primer will surely screw up my new paint.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by snowball
for the love of god, please type English in the future. Contractions, abbreviations and bad grammar just make your posts extremely hard to read.
he's Jamaican fucktard.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by '87 turbo II
he's Jamaican fucktard.
So? Typing phonetically is still messed up. I'm not criticizing him because I could at least understand him... but, its just as wrong as some Asian guy spelling all of his L's with R's.

Know what I mean?
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 11:12 AM
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Looks like this will be the path I take for my 10AE. Thx for the ppg code ^^. White on any model year RX-7 looks wonderful when competed properly. I as well will be spending the time to take the car to bare metal.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 11:58 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by '87 turbo II
he's Jamaican fucktard.
just incase you didnt know there a two forms of english American english and Uk english we here in jamaica happen to speak UK english and im not jamaican im chinese so its rather hard to be incorporating all the languages together to try to make you ppl understand what i'm saying sorry if you arent smart enough to try to understand.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 12:15 PM
  #20  
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Well, you were speaking neither US english or UK english.. so smart enough doesn't really apply. I'm pretty sure "cud sum1" doesn't translate in any language.

Sorry for the confusion though roku.
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Old Jun 5, 2007 | 05:33 PM
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Originally Posted by micaheli
Factory UC is terrible... I think its the primer though.. paint doesn't stick to it. If your paint is flaking off, it will only get worse. I would take the entire car to bare metal and get rid of that shitty primer. You might be able to just lightly sand the existing primer and feather it where its chipped... but, with just an air-compressor, I blew off 30% of my entire cars paint. I used a 3000psi pressure washer to do the next 30%, and 40% or so was left on and wouldn't come off. I'm going to bare metal right now because I don't trust the primer at all. I would rather use a more coarse grit and take everything off to do it the right way than risk it happening again and take all that time to feather up to the paint..... and being careful to not break through the primer and make waves/dips/etc...

But yea man... Factory UC sucked. even at like 50mph.. if I flipped up my headlights, paint would flake off of them. At like 60-65, small flakes would flake off my car, 70-85 - large sheets (6-10" big) would come off.. very insane. I'll be glad to get rid of this.

Obviously newer UC from a paint supplier will be fine, so don't get discouraged on color, expecially with a 10AE.

Yes Crystal White UC sucks
I have had a 90 turbo II my avatar, and a 90 GTUs and a 91 coupe in UC and they all flaked off!!
Hre some pics.
First off I am using a pressure waster 2000+psi to remove all the paint.
The problem with the factory was they let the primer dry way too much before applying the color.There was no innercoat adhesion,meaning, the seperate layers did not bond with eachother and they didnt scuff the car to give the color bite(to stick)So after about 10 years of shrinking and drying out, the paint is brittle and flakes off.
I will Scuff the stock primer and throw i coat of NCP280 PPG primer
Wetsand with 600 grit 2 times and were ready for paint
Im using PPG deltron Base 3 coats with DCU2055 3 coats and gold flakes in the first coat.=) for the UC 91 coupe.
Attached Thumbnails Paint Code For 10th AE?-dscf0003.jpg   Paint Code For 10th AE?-img_0428.jpg  

Last edited by JunpoweR; Jun 5, 2007 at 05:48 PM.
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