paint
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From: northwest Indiana,portage
paint
I want to save some $ and prep the car for fresh paint what is the best way to remove the paint what grit sand paper is the best 100 200 300 and is it best to use a air comp with air tools or can it be done with power sanders thanks
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got to the local paint supply store and get a roll of 180grit da paper, then use a da sander and sand it all down, yes this is used with an aircompressor. It will take a while. then you'll prob have to use some filler also. This is not a bad thing and most cars have it, just make sure you get a good light weight filler, and not cheap stuff from walmart. Make sure that everything is sanded, and there is no clear coat showing, primer will not stick to this and it will bubble and flake.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UK
There are stages with preping a car, the first is the basicly repairing and rust,dents or genral damage for this use somthing like 80's grit paper on a DA sander to remove the paint (filler will stick better to clean metal) then any repairs should be finished in 180's so there is'nt any bad scraches (over time the paint shrinks and will show up any bad scraches). The remaining shiny areas can be scuffed off with 3m's Red scotch.
Now you should be readly for the Next step which is priming, you should not skimp on this as it is very important you get some good quality gear. After masking the car well and a good clean up with some Paint Degreaser or Panel Wipe apply your Primer.
Once that is properly gone off (you can rub it with some 800 grit and it is powdery ie. does not clog your paper) Wet flat it with 800's make sure you use a block (inportant you dont use the ends of your fingers) and u have a clean Bucket with soapy water in and do it panel by panel drying after you finish each one (Preping is basicly easy just try to keep it as clean as posable and dont rush it)
You may also want to get in contact with the Body shop that is painting it and see what stage they want it in.
I hope this Helps......Chris
If i can be of any further help mail me on Chrisleegtt@hotmail.com
Now you should be readly for the Next step which is priming, you should not skimp on this as it is very important you get some good quality gear. After masking the car well and a good clean up with some Paint Degreaser or Panel Wipe apply your Primer.
Once that is properly gone off (you can rub it with some 800 grit and it is powdery ie. does not clog your paper) Wet flat it with 800's make sure you use a block (inportant you dont use the ends of your fingers) and u have a clean Bucket with soapy water in and do it panel by panel drying after you finish each one (Preping is basicly easy just try to keep it as clean as posable and dont rush it)
You may also want to get in contact with the Body shop that is painting it and see what stage they want it in.
I hope this Helps......Chris
If i can be of any further help mail me on Chrisleegtt@hotmail.com
Passenger
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you forgot putting guide coat on that primer before you sand it, and most schools that teach this tell you to use 180 to sand off the paint(no big scratches) and an angle grinder to gring the dent where the bondo will be, the part you grind away from the dent must be at least twice the size of the dent so that the filler can be smoothed out properly, and you don't need to remove all the paint just to paint the car though. Just need to remove the clear.
800 grit sand paper is not really needed for sanding primer though. Its better to guide coat , Sand using 180 again on a block, and fix all the small scratches at this time, then reprime and sand with 600.
Most use the 800 for color sanding epoxy paints, and 1200 for color sanding basecoat-clearcoat paints.
Here in the next couple of weeks my painting will be complete for the body, Im painting the base with orion silver base, and Kandy oriental blue, with Kosmic color catalyst KU-100 to make the blue flip. These are all house of color paints, and Its gonna look awesome.
800 grit sand paper is not really needed for sanding primer though. Its better to guide coat , Sand using 180 again on a block, and fix all the small scratches at this time, then reprime and sand with 600.
Most use the 800 for color sanding epoxy paints, and 1200 for color sanding basecoat-clearcoat paints.
Here in the next couple of weeks my painting will be complete for the body, Im painting the base with orion silver base, and Kandy oriental blue, with Kosmic color catalyst KU-100 to make the blue flip. These are all house of color paints, and Its gonna look awesome.
Rotary Enthusiast
Joined: Dec 2001
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From: UK
? I am a pro Painter and i see it all the time. The problem is the Painter will want to finish the prep ie. spend some time checking its good, at the end of the day its his reputation.
yeh you are right it sounds like i am telling you to take all the paint off thats not the case as he says at leest twice the size of the dent, and you dont need to remove all the clear coat just take the shime of it so the paint has a Key.
MMM your a bit rough anit you grinding paint off? i do this for a living and i would not get away with that sort of thing.
Trust me i am Time served been doing this job for over 10 years now.
yeh you are right it sounds like i am telling you to take all the paint off thats not the case as he says at leest twice the size of the dent, and you dont need to remove all the clear coat just take the shime of it so the paint has a Key.
MMM your a bit rough anit you grinding paint off? i do this for a living and i would not get away with that sort of thing.
Trust me i am Time served been doing this job for over 10 years now.
Last edited by Grizzly; Jun 19, 2002 at 05:16 PM.
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I do this also. not been 10years but a while....
My teacher when i was in school has been in several hotrod and muscle car mags, taught me how to do this, I believe everything that the guy says. Ive seen custom cady jobs to stock paint, to crazy pearl flip flops that the guy has painted and there great, im not saying im an expert or something but thats just the way i was taught, Yes most paint shops just run a scotch brite pad over the car and nock the shimer out of the clear, but personaly on my own car i would not go this route, and the reason for grinding all the paint twice the size of the dent is so that when you sand the filler, you may notice a high spot. the dent may have not just gone in, but made a pressure ridge do to a panel behind the dent or the way the dent was formed, I have spent alot of time getting my car strait, and have painted several other cars and trucks, no im no expert but I do do things the best way i see fit. And i was just offered a job here in town painting airplanes, which paint jobs run from 5-6k on up to 20k. And only the best is expected at this price.
just my 2cents
My teacher when i was in school has been in several hotrod and muscle car mags, taught me how to do this, I believe everything that the guy says. Ive seen custom cady jobs to stock paint, to crazy pearl flip flops that the guy has painted and there great, im not saying im an expert or something but thats just the way i was taught, Yes most paint shops just run a scotch brite pad over the car and nock the shimer out of the clear, but personaly on my own car i would not go this route, and the reason for grinding all the paint twice the size of the dent is so that when you sand the filler, you may notice a high spot. the dent may have not just gone in, but made a pressure ridge do to a panel behind the dent or the way the dent was formed, I have spent alot of time getting my car strait, and have painted several other cars and trucks, no im no expert but I do do things the best way i see fit. And i was just offered a job here in town painting airplanes, which paint jobs run from 5-6k on up to 20k. And only the best is expected at this price.
just my 2cents