im gonna check the w/b wire I ran

 

Ok I got the car back together.
I rewired my grounds. I had originally had a wire run from the battery negative to the original negative up front I have since grounded the original negative cable to the strut tower and ran 2 additional grounds from each rotor housing to it. I grounded the battery strait to the chassis in the rear. Reassembled the car and noticed 2 things
1. I still don't have all the idiot lights illuminate when I turn the ignition on just the lights that are being used, like the e brake and hatch light be both Are on or open. The other is 1 is I had originally wired my gauges the blue and black cig lighter wire which recieved ign 12v now receives 12 volts all the time. Idk whats going on the car starts and runs much better but still have electrical issues.. Tomorrow I'll get a better chance to look at it and see whats going on any suggestions would be awsome

 

today i got out to the car and also had a buzzer coming from the instrument cluster I had to remove the meter fuse to stop it any suggestion what its from?

 

Start off w/the easy stuff. If you disconnected the two wire plug from the back of the alternator and grounded the White/Black wire w/key to on do the warning lights all turn on?

If your car has power remote sideview mirrors do they work w/no key in the ignition?

 

In glossing over your previous posts I saw that you have an S5 alternator as opposed to an S4 but the check on the W/B wire is still the same.

 

yeah I must have some sort of an issue with that wire.. I still have to excite the alt for it to start charging.. any idea on the buzzer? with the meter fuse out I lose alot of ****.. I also noticed a beeping/ chime when i put my lights on the has to be some sort of short some where the car is spazzing out but amazingly drives better with all these new grounds..

 

The B/W wire should be the excitation wire and not the W/B. Grounding the W/B wire w/key to on will tell you a lot.

If the remote mirrors work w/no key then the ignition switch might be problematic as the wire that supplies the voltage to the lighter is the same wire which powers the mirrors which are powered by the ACC fuse so if one has power w/no key then the other accessory should have the same result.

Do you get the beeping sound w/the Meter fuse pulled or not?

 

the B/w wire is a 30amp inline fuse off the B terminal to the S terminal.
I do not have remote mirrors.
I did just replace my ignition harness with a used harness from a forum member... mine olld one was all hacked up from the previous owner
yes the beeping with the headlights on is there with the fuse pulled idk is its there when its in bc the buzzers so loud..
I noticed that my seat belt light and now abs light are on which i dont have and never had and half the brake light is illlumnated on the idiot cluster lol idk wtf is going on

 

Did you replace the ignition Switch pigtail or the Front harness which connects to the ignition switch pigtail?

 

the pig tail

 

Maybe you should recheck how you plugged the pigtail into the Front harness as the Blue wire on the Front harness should have voltage w/key to ACC and not key to off. And then recheck how the four wire plug of the pigtail is connected to the Front harness as this plug involves the key reminder/beeping side of things.

 

I unplugged and grounded the w/b wire on the alt w/ KOEO. The lights stayed the same and did not illuminate.
I am gonna run a wire strait to the cpu from the w/b wire at the alt instead of it running thru the front harness like now..
next time im around the car ill check the ignition pig tail. Im pretty sure all the connectors only go one way but I could be wrong..

 

put a 15-30 ohm resister on a key switched ignition source and feed that to the pin where the white/black goes
the alt should self excite now at idle and you bypass the games with the dash globe and CPU

 

this guy lol
If I cant fix it, ill do that. nice idea
even so I still have this rediculas buzzer evryone hates going crazy..im not sure if i removed a module i shoudnt have or what but id really like to put my meter fuse in to get my dash back..
and wtf y does this cig lighter have power all the time now there has to be a short or fried computer something stupid..

 

It could be the ignition switch pigtail and how it was connected to the Front harness. If you disconnected the Front harness from the pigtail except for the 2 wire plug which contains the White/Red wire of the pigtail mating w/the solid Black wire and left that alone but disconnected the other plugs and then measured for voltage on the unplugged pigtail wires w/key to ACC then only one wire of any value should have voltage on it. This wire would go to the Blue wire of the Front harness. When the key is turned to on then another pigtail wire would have voltage in addition to the ACC wire and this wire is part of the 2 wire connector that mates the W/R pigtail to the solid Black Front harness. If the necessary plugs I illustrated at the ignition switch were disconnected and the wire which is part of the pigtail that mates w/the Blue Front harness has voltage w/no key (which would be constant voltage) then this is your problem.

 

I currently have a s5 alt in an s4 using a standalone computer
I have the b+ terminal wired with an inline 30 amp fuse to the S terminal and and the L terminal ran to the white and black wire to the cpu.
now if I transfer my setup in to a S5 shell is the L terminal still wired the same way? to the white and black wire at the cpu? not sure if the wire colors are different from S4 to S5.
thanks, James

 

just to make people aware of another issue
,, some later alts seem not to have a diode to prevent back feed along the alt warning lamp wire
i would surmise from observation that perhaps the s4 alt has this inbuilt
,, and using later alts ( FD, ford and others ) may not necessarily have this inbuilt
,, as they possibly feature the diode inbuilt in the wiring to the coil side of the alt relay

without the diode the trickle after shutdown may be as much as 1 amp measured from the white black on back of alt
( if you measure V it may be up to 2 V )

so,, if you have the s5 onwards alt fitted to your s4 car,, i strongly advise that you grab a couple of 3 amp diodes and wire them as parallel along the white /black wire
( or a 6 amp diode if you can find one,, yes i am aware of the effect when you place diodes in parrallel re : heat share and current draw issues ,, use identical sourced diodes )

 

thats one reason why I scrapped the car lol dead battery all the time...

now will I be wiring the s5 alt the same way in an s5 minus the diodes

 

i got a few other questions no point to start a new thread..
just picked up a 90 gxl when i open the door both the door and the hatch light come on in the idiot cluster they both come on when i open the hatch too...
I also have a fuel gauge issue it works till you move lol any ideas?
thanks
james