2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

overheated..searched.. no answers

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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 06:10 PM
  #26  
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I'll try the motor oil trick.. how much should I put in? I check all the wires and they spark good. where can I get a compression tester from? parts store?
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Old Aug 28, 2005 | 07:13 PM
  #27  
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Hey Im interested in a similar N/A car with an overheating problem. Is there anyway it could NOT need a complete rebuild (are rotaries THAT sensitive). and how ican i chekc. Yes I took note of the how to check for coolant seals idea.
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 04:17 PM
  #28  
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From: Chesapeak, VA
anyone got anymore ideas? idk what else to do
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 06:19 PM
  #29  
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when I pulled the plugs, they were wet with gas. I did a lil research and could it be a bad injector?
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Old Sep 5, 2005 | 06:58 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by outcastcat
Hey Im interested in a similar N/A car with an overheating problem. Is there anyway it could NOT need a complete rebuild (are rotaries THAT sensitive). and how ican i chekc. Yes I took note of the how to check for coolant seals idea.
If it's overheated, chance are you cooked your seals, warped the housings....and yes, rotaries are that touchy. Do a search under "overheat" or "overheated"
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 12:02 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 88convert
when I pulled the plugs, they were wet with gas. I did a lil research and could it be a bad injector?
No, You have collapsed Apex seals or warped housing from the overheating. These two outcomes result from overheating and are the most common symptoms of flooding. There is no compression so the fule just builds up after you repeatedly crank the motor.

Check the compression.

If you could trun it over fast enough you could get it to fire........the speed results in air excapping slower and........compression is the result. The motor will run like you did while limping home. Ppl are telling you to push start it but with another car.....not by you and a friend pushing it around the parking lot by hand.
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 12:18 PM
  #32  
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Please check your comp before anything else. Why didn't you let it cool down first or tow it home.
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Old Sep 6, 2005 | 05:23 PM
  #33  
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my comp? how could that be a problem? I let it cool down, but the temp jumped up before I could get all the way home and there really wasn't a place to pull over in traffic on the interstate.
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 07:07 AM
  #34  
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THE COMPRESSION WILL GIVE YOU THE BEST IDEA OF THE CONDITION OF THE ENGINE WITHOUT TEARING IT DOWN.

Why are you questioning the advice?

If you overheated the engine to the point things warped, compression will suffer.
It's as plain as that.
Low compression numbers will confirm if the engine is good or not.

Are you willing to tear down the motor and then spec out all the parts to confirm this?


-Ted
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Old Sep 7, 2005 | 06:10 PM
  #35  
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pull start it behind an SUV or a truck or something. It will fire up then, I guarentee it will. but if you have bad coolant seals then it will overheat shortly after it fires up so best bet is a rebuild.

The other day I scared the hell out of myself. I pull started my fresh rebuild and parked it for 10 min to let it idle and I heard a hissing sound, it was hot water shooting from the heater core hose inlet on the outter firewall due to it being loose. so I shut it down and I could hear the air pockets and PURE WATER boiling/sloshing in the engine, but my temp registered above medium, not hot.so that got me a little jumpy. I am pretty sure it boiled cause no antifreeze. I then also discovered a oil leak in my front cover so before I fire it up again I have to re-seal my fornt housing.
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 01:45 AM
  #36  
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I'm not questioning advice, I'm just not sure what to do, that's all
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 01:30 PM
  #37  
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Look man, just get a compression check done. Like people have been saying, it'll let you know the status of engine and what you have to do next. I dont know what you thought fcfanatic said, but he said check your comp (compression), which you did question him about.
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 02:33 PM
  #38  
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lmao when fcfanatic said comp, I thought he was talkin about the ecu lol sorry for the misunderstanding. I'll get it checked, it should be 60-60-60 right?
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 03:38 PM
  #39  
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Dude, did you check both rotors. I hope that isn't your compression #'s. Time for a rebuild. Hell my motor is weak at 90 psi per. Proper comp testing: Pull EGI fuse located near the driver's side strut tower. Pull the leading plugs and all plug wires. I believe it is the leading that you test. Correct me if I am wrong. Then find someone to sit in the car with the throttle wide open and crank while you watch the tester.

Search! Most of your queries can be answered without starting a new thread. Best of luck!

-James

Last edited by fcfanatic; Sep 10, 2005 at 03:40 PM.
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 05:16 PM
  #40  
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thanks, will do
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 06:21 PM
  #41  
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im pretty sure you motor is cooked.thats exactly what happened to me on the interstate.got it home tried starting it and finally got it to run but then just quit working but is was when it overheated the rear housing was warped and leaking coolant.im pretty sure you got the same problem.but i got a atkins rotary motor and runs great now. i suggest you start saving up.
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 07:52 PM
  #42  
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yeah that seems to be the only answer now. I was lookin at the rotary ressurection kit and the atkins kit and video. anything else I'm gonna need? I wanna go with a street port while it's apart, anything else I should consider?
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Old Sep 10, 2005 | 08:07 PM
  #43  
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You can also find more info on rebuilds by searching. RotaryResurrections website is a good place to start.
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 06:39 AM
  #44  
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I must have been asleep to miss this one. Dude, after all my reading of this thread, DID, DID, DID, you ever do a compression test, which is so easy to perform? Id send my tester to you directly, but it would cost more to send it. Go to parts store, buy cheap compression tester, 20 bucks, do the test, and reply. Then the geniuses here can help further. 20 bucks for a test, or couple thousand, for maybe unnecessary rebuild. Your call. I thought I was stubborn.

PEACE THE DOG
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 05:23 PM
  #45  
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yes i checked it and I got 0 on all faces... looks like it's time for a rebuild.
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 05:28 PM
  #46  
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well the atkins rebuilt i got was $1995 w/3mm seals but it came out to $2695 cause of the core charge.
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 08:19 PM
  #47  
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I don't need 3mm seals, and I just need a basic rebuild, nothing special.
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 08:27 PM
  #48  
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oh well yeah but i forgot that there TII motors come with 3mm apex seals
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 08:48 PM
  #49  
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that's awesome, but I'd rather do my own work and learn how everything works. I really don't have the money to send it off either. but thanks for the info man
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Old Sep 11, 2005 | 08:51 PM
  #50  
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no problem,to tell you the truth i would do the same thing but i dont got the right tools.
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