overheated..searched.. no answers
overheated..searched.. no answers
I overheated my TII, and babied it home the other day with the temp gauge pegged. I managed to crack the plastic top, but have fixed the crack, bought a 180 thermostat and gastket, and filled it with rad flush. now the car won't start at all, it just turns over. I pulled the plugs and checked them and there's no coolant on them either. the hoses are new and the water pump seems to work fine. any ideas as to what I did to my car?
you overheated it. (simply put)
when your car cranks, give it some gas. it's gonna be really hard to start but eventually it will. when it does check for smoke (white) that will be coolant burning. if that's the case, you cooked your coolant seals and they are now shot. rebuild time.
a very easy way to check if your coolant seals are shot, is in the FAQ
when your car cranks, give it some gas. it's gonna be really hard to start but eventually it will. when it does check for smoke (white) that will be coolant burning. if that's the case, you cooked your coolant seals and they are now shot. rebuild time.
a very easy way to check if your coolant seals are shot, is in the FAQ
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 10
From: Temple, Texas (Central)
I'm willing to bet the motors shot. If you didn't cook the seals, you might have warped the housings. Just keep trying to start and see if it leaks coolant in the engine.
yeah I know, as much as I want to, I really don't have the money to rebuild right now, kinda wasn't plannin on it. What should I do while the engine is apart? I want to port it and upgrade to 3mm seals, but what should I have to use 3mm seals? I only want a street port, but I'll keep the stock turbo.
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3mm is overkill for what you want. The stock mazda seals will do just fine with the stock turbo and a streetport. 3mm really for engines running really high boost and putting down alot of power. Alot of people are running 400+ hp on the stock seals and holding just fine.
I'm not sure how to check for coolant seals, but I pulled the plugs after trying to start it again and they were covered in gas.. I don't think that's a good thing. it just turns over but acts like it's not sparking though. I pulled a plug and left it in the plug wire and they are firing so idk.
it's probaly flooded right now. pull the EGI fuse and open your rad cap. crank the motor. if your coolant starts to bubble up and pour from the fill neck, then your seals are probaly shot. do you have an S5 or S4?
I guess I'm gonna have to pull the motor and rebuild it. any idea how quick I can get it done? I was lookin at the kit from Atkins rotary along with the video, anything else I should consider while the motor is out? I'm on a really tight budget, so nothing outrageous.
my friends honda accord has got a leaking head gasket, it leaks into the combustion chamber which is the same idea as your coolant seals, we tried push starting with no luck but what got it going was some starting fluid and it fired right up. btw, my turbo II overheated to right before the "H" mark on the temp gauge, i still drove it about 1000 miles afterwards before it blew (from detonation).
well i mean u can rebuild an engine in as little as one full day but thats if u have all ur tools and experience. if u wanna do it real good and take ur time then u shood take about a week IMO
check for compression, if it seems strong, poor a bit of motor oil into the engine via spark plug holes, spin around Put some BRAND new plugs in and try to fire it up. No use rebuilding it if its still good. If you have a compression checker use that instead. Also check for spark.



