hibidiwho

heres the parts list car overheats wen in load or wen not moving also car needs a retune bad becuase the old motor had a small port and he blew it up(old motor made 313 whp @ 12psi) and built this motor.its still fresh under 2k miles previous owner told me he think its overheating due to restricted air flow to the radiator because it has to pass thought the fmic oil cooler ac condensor then the radiator
my old car was a sr20det and i had dual flexalite fans and they were the best i ever had but maybe there different for single fans any suggestions on the fan? or other things that could lead to overheating maybe a tune because the motor has way bigger ports?

-autronic sm2 stand alone
-550cc primaries / 1600cc secondaries
-Racing Beat aluminum secondary fuel rail
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-fuel pressure regulator
-3 MSD 6A’s
-10mm spark plug wires

91’ JDM TII motor w/ 30k original mi, rebuilt w/ less than 2k mi:
Brand new rotor housings
Brand new middle housing
Brand new Rotors
New 2mm 2-piece apex seals
All seals replaced including new race FD corner springs
Custom streetported secondary intake ports
Racing Beat streetported primary intake and exhaust ports
RX-8 rear stationary gear
Thermal pellet
New water pump
Mazdatrix pulley set
-Greddy TD06SH Turbo Kit w/ Type R wastegate
-Greddy 3-row intercooler w/ full aluminum piping and intake elbow
-Blitz blowoff valve
-FD Alternator
-Flex-a-Lite electric fan
-4” Corksport Radiator (also have fluidyne)

SureShot

Is all the front air going through the radiators?
Top cover?
Belly pan?
Chin air splitter?

adrock3217

Aside from what SureShot said (make sure you have all of that), think about this:


The flex-a-lite fan pulls no where near the CFM that your stock clutch fan pulled. And that was BEFORE you had a front mount intercooler blocking air.

Make sure you have proper ducting to the intercooler, make sure all the air is going to it and only it, proper ducting goes a LONG way when it comes to keeping your setup cool.

You may want to consider eliminating the AC, that is, if you can stand the Hawaii heat without it. If not, you have some work to do. Ducting, coolant flush (may want to run a higher % of water, like 70% water, 30% coolant, maybe even more), new thermostat, and the like.

A bigger port job will not affect your cars cooling capabilities.

SureShot

Other options:
Evans coolant (popular with racers)
Water mist spray the radiators (messy but effective)

TweakGames

iTrader: (3)

you have oil and water in the car? haha first things first. Also maybe bad temp sensor and or the standalone isnt reading the temp correctly/calibrated? I always like to check the easy things first. But then again, I do have a belly button.
We need more info.
Does it overheat when sitting still, when your on it hard, when your cruising?

hibidiwho

top cover? belly pan? chin air splitter? what are those things?
sorry im new to the rx7 that why im here posting heres some pics of the car mybe that would help

hibidiwho

car overheats from all of the above but its a fresh motor under 2k miles it jus runs hot period. still has ac to

Eva001Ikari

iTrader: (7)

wow, first of all, you have a lot of **** under ur hood, its all cramped and what not. As stated above, your fmic might be doing a little to up the heat under the hood because remember, the fc was made with a top mount, which basically means you are blocking almost all of the air to the radiator.

That big mouth lookin think on the front of ur car is to scoop air and get it to the radiator, the oil cooler should be no problem (unless you have some whack *** one).

Although i havent heard of very many problems with an fmic i like to keep in mind that since the car was made for a top mount, i would keep it a top mount.

All that + the hood you have doesnt look like it helps air flow at all, you just have a big hole in ur hood pointing the opposite direction, maybe it would help if you drove in reverse. hahahahaha

hibidiwho

thats what i was thinking.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

I can see multiple problems here. Like someone said, make sure you have the undertray mounted under the rad. Make sure the car has an OEM 180 degree thermostat. No coolant leaks at all? no coolant smell from the tailpipe? Is the oil cooler ok? The oil cooler plays a big role in keeping the engine cool.

I think the biggest problem though is that whoever built the car tried to pack too much **** under the hood. It's hard enough to stay cool with a FMIC even with an aftermarket rad. Electric fans hurt you even more. Then throw the A/C in and it's just not going to work. You may have to convert to a V mount setup or at least remove the A/C.

Finally, your car might be overheating because it's pissed off at you about the whole unpainted bodykit thing...

Street_Knight

Ok, Just to let you know, I'm not trying to be an *** k....

That hood is designed so that the air rushing through the front of the car will be able to pass easily over the engine and out the hole making MORE air flow that a hood scoop. You have to remember that the air has to go somewhere. The combo of front scoop for the radiator and that hood is acting just like a wind tunnel.

as for the over heating, feel the coolant lines when you reach operating temp, do you feel flow?

hibidiwho

thanks any ideas/feedback is always good

eriksseven

iTrader: (6)

Important question... How hot are you running? You say "overheating", but what does that mean? 200F? 220F? 240F?

If you're actually having a series of catastrophic overheating events, you're probably screwed and your internal coolant seals are shot... If you're just running HOT, than you need to define what hot is and then start eliminating variables. First, what temps are you seeing?

Is it hot all the time? Get hot during idle? Is it hot on the freeway? Does it get hot when you're accelerating at WOT? Are you smoking? Leaking coolant? Pissing coolant out of the overflow tank?

hibidiwho

okay doesn't leak coolant it runs hotter them normal wen not sitting or driving up a hill with load no smoking what so ever cant drive it to far it starts overheating has perfect idle on a cold start up i mostly think its bcuz i have ac 3 row fmic and 4 row radiator pulling ac wen the car gets shipped.it has a electric fan pictured in post its a big flexalite fan those worked wonders for me in my s13 with a sr20 i figure they were good whats some good after market fans for an fc?and i was wondering is there ne of u ppl out there with amost same set up as me with the same problems? or had the same problems?

Icemark

no one asked what thermostat he is using?

Should be the OEM Mazda thermostat and not some crappy aftermarket one

TehMonkay

iTrader: (-1)

As long as you have bled the coolant properly, and have air ducting, the only other thing i could think of would be a faulty thermostat.

SureShot

That looks like a well done setup.
That hood outlet is a big help.
The picture shows the top cover OK.

If you don't have the origonal fornt bottom pan, here is a good example of a fabricated pan.

SureShot

My 87 was showing overheating symptoms. What finally fixed it? Would you believe the water pump housing? The aluminum casting behind the pump was eroded by the turbulence of the high revving pump and the previous owner using plain water for some time. The bypass valve seat under the thermostat had about a 4mm chamfer eroded away, and there was a 6mm hole eroded through the internal wall between the inlet and outlet side.
All this bypassing gives symptoms like a partially blocked radiator. I fabricated a repair with Bondo Marine Epoxy Putty Stick. It has still working well a year later when I sold the car.

Also be aware that a replacement thermostat may not have the small air bleed hole, or the spring loaded disc under the stat valve may not properly close the bypass port.

When you pull the neck to check the stat, inspect the bypass port under the stat seat closely.

BLKTOPTRVL

Doesn't it look like the fan shroud is only covering part of the radiator?

On my stock Vert, the shroud completely covers the entire engine side surface of the rad.

Icemark

Okay hibidiwho getting tired of your bumps and they have been deleted. Bumps are forbidden here in the 2nd gen RX7 technical section.

You have yet to answer half the questions (all related to overheating) that other members have asked.

Do you have all the shrouds on, particularly the engine under cover?
Do you have an OEM thermostat? if not what are you using?
What temperature are you considering overheating?
Your micky mouse fan does not even cover the radiator, so how is it wired? Thermostat for it? Or?

Don't even post another time in this thread, until you are ready those questions.

hibidiwho

highest it went so far was 103 celsius i have an oem thermostat car does NOT over heat on idle only wen in load soft driving up a hill i think the car needs TO BE RE TUNED and ac removed also move the 3 msd 6al boxes that blocks even more flow to the radiator it does have the bottem plate under the car BUT WITH THE OLD MOTOR IS RAN AROUND 80-90 celsius and now with the bogger motor it runs hotter thats all i kno for now.