I have to chime in. You had the multimeter on resistance (ohms... character map to the rescue...looks kinda like this Ώ.) You'll never read voltage with that. Ever. You want the V with the straight line over it, and MAKE SURE that you put the red lead into the port that symbol matches.

Your video jumped too much for me to say with any certainty you didn't blow the multimeter.

 

His Multimeter is all sorts of wack, even tho it was pointing at ohms it was measuring volts, the *** is somewhat broke.

 

Now it drives but poorly, I didnt feel it pull hard at all, backfiring it felt like.

Once it reached operating temperatures it still felt like it was hunting for idle but it could now rev.

Granted i literally just bolted in the TPS without doing any adjustments to it.

 

that's probably about as good as you can expect it to run with the one rotor lagging in compression and may be difficult to start on a hot day when warmed up.

you can limp it by raising the idle to about 1200 for the time being, lowering it to where it should be will probably just result in constant stalling issues.

 

I'm going to get the motor hot one day and take another compression check to see what i get.

Your probably right if the compression is that bad,

We got the car to where its gonna be stored for now until shes fully up and running so thats a relief. Maybe we should just pull it and rebuild or maybe we should just try to find another S4 13B thats running.

That being said i want to tinker a bit more and see if i can get it any better.

 

no no your compression could be asbad as hell ,it will still run smooth if you have nno vac leaks good plugs and wires timed correctly sensors working ,
ive rebuilt motors with terrible compression and they ran smooth
you just have to get evrything set correctly plugs coils vac leaks under control,make sure the injector seals are good,dont worry about compression

 

And placing a newer TPS on the engine w/o setting it and then asking people to watch an extended video is a bit silly.

 

Hey come on now i was just excited, it moved!

 

/\..often heard at the senior citizen home..lol!

 

yep, they will run smooth but if compression is lower than standard it will struggle to take off from a dead stop and have stalling issues when the idle drops down, like say it needs to be for some smog tests.

i also don't much care for the fuel pump switch some supplement into cars. it's been a loong time since i had to resort to that sort of botchery. i suppose it's up to each person what is acceptable though.

 

couldnt he just do a water treatment and maybe boost his compression a bit? it couldnt hurt

 

i would probably suggest just that, if he intends to drive it more before rebuilding it later down the road. the low compression could have just been from the engine sitting for a while. it could have also just been an erroneous test, but if he did both rotors exactly the same way, the results were still a 25% difference in rotor compression.

 

water treatment is good, even if its just less cleaning later.

one of the techs at the dealership had a new too mazda service writer, and an Rx8 with a bad engine, and the decarb got the compression to come up .2, so it got it into the 8's, for a while

 

how soon should one do a water treatment on a rebuild? would it help ?

I know the lack of high rpm at full load creates a buildup of carbon, along with time spent at idle.

 

i do it once or twice a year

 

Interesting, I have yet to do it, but I figured it as a yearly adventure. Car runs great, and I run it hard though when driven.

 

mines not.even finished break-in lol

 

Is water treatment a euphemism for turning a motor into a boat anchor? :P

Or is it as this website says, and putting water into the engine?

Rotary Resurrection home of the budget rebuild.

 

you don't need any water treatment or de carboning yours isn't dirty yet!

 

well my plugs were pretty oily when I changed them , but I guess that's normal